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In depth beta on the 140 best Yosemite bigwalls routes, free and aid.
A sumptuous historical survey of "The Road" that also offers itineraries, practicalities, and the whereabouts of top-rated related museum collections.
Half a century ago a rag-tag group of innovators was building a foundation for modern American rock climbing from a makeshift home base in Yosemite. Photographer Glen Denny was a key figure in this golden age of climbing, capturing pioneering feats on camera while tackling challenging ascents himself. In entertaining short pieces enlivened by his iconic black-and-white images of Yosemite's big wall legends, Denny reveals a young man's coming of age and provides a vivid look at Yosemite’s early climbing culture. He relates such precarious achievements as hauling water in glass gallon jugs up the east face of Washington Column, nailing the 750-foot Rostrum in a punishing heat wave, and dangling overnight on El Capitan’s Dihedral Wall in a lightning storm. Each true tale captures the spirit of historic Camp 4, where Denny and others plan the next big climb while living on the cheap and dodging park rangers.
CLICK HERE to download the section from Big Wall Climbing on "First Ascents" * Skills and strategies unique to big walls -- illustrated in full color * Includes modern speed and free climbing tactics that have revolutionized wall climbing * Key training exercises (practiced near the ground) and real life examples reinforce instruction Dangling sweaty-palmed from a 3000-foot cliff for days on end, Jared Ogden taught himself to climb his first big wall by trial and error. Why should you have to do the same? Ogden, who has climbed El Capitan's Nose in less than twenty-four hours, wants to jump-start your education. Whether you're a weekend warrior or a full-on wall addict, you'll learn the tools of the trade and how to use them; different leading and hauling scenarios and why some are better suited than others; multiple following set-ups for different terrain; how to choose your partners and routes; staying on route; how to live on a wall; the steps involved in doing first ascents; big wall style and ethics; and more. Ogden will have you racked and ready for prime big wall climbing destinations in North America including Yosemite, Zion, Rocky Mountain, and the Black Canyon of Gunnison National Parks; the Alaskan Range; and the Bugaboos of British Columbia.
2020 Banff Mountain Book Competition Finalist in Guidebooks Crack climbing is a highly technical form of movement in which climbers position their hands, feet, and even their entire body in cracks to make upward progress on rock. An advocate for the sport’s aesthetic lines, physicality, and technical know-how, author Pete Whittaker teaches more than sixty Crack School Masterclasses each year and was featured in the popular climbing film Wide Boyz. This detailed and comprehensive guide teaches step-by-step techniques and tips, including for: Jamming (finger, hand, fist, foot, arm, leg, body) Crack types (chimneys, liebacks, underclings, roof cracks) How to safely lead and place protection Efficient positioning and movement Strength recovery while climbing
One of the best mountaineers of our generation ?nally reveals the details of his many exciting extreme alpine ascents—ascents in which his only equipment is a pair of shoes and a small bag for holding chalk. Clinging to the crevasses in mountain walls, with muscles bulging as he makes his free ascent, Huber has become one of the world’s most recognized and photographed extreme alpine climbers. Along with many other legendary ascents detailed here, he and his brother set a new record of 2 hours and 46 minutes on El Capitan, The Nose, Yosemite Park in the Fall of 2007—a climb that usually takes three days. When he free-soloed the Kommunist’s famous peaks, Alexander Huber declared, “Why? For me, it is the search for my limits. On the other side, I am aware that the time is limited.” With major corporate sponsors like Adidas and Atmoic, this is a fascinating insight into one of the world’s best mountaineers.
Including two new chapters on Alex Honnold’s free solo ascent of the iconic 3,000-foot El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. On June 3rd, 2017, Alex Honnold became the first person to free solo Yosemite's El Capitan—to scale the wall without rope, a partner, or any protective gear—completing what was described as "the greatest feat of pure rock climbing in the history of the sport" (National Geographic) and "one of the great athletic feats of any kind, ever" (New York Times). Already one of the most famous adventure athletes in the world, Honnold has now been hailed as "the greatest climber of all time" (Vertical magazine). Alone on the Wall recounts the most astonishing achievements of Honnold’s extraordinary life and career, brimming with lessons on living fearlessly, taking risks, and maintaining focus even in the face of extreme danger. Now Honnold tells, for the first time and in his own words, the story of his 3 hours and 56 minutes on the sheer face of El Cap, which Outside called "the moon landing of free soloing…a generation-defining climb. Bad ass and beyond words…one of the pinnacle sporting moments of all time."
There is almost no limit to what we can accomplish--except perhaps in our own minds. Mark Wellman's relentless struggle to survive a disabling accident to become a park ranger and an accomplished wheelchair athlete, and ultimately to climb the sheer granite faces of Yosemite's El Capitan and Half Dome challenges all of us to continue to strive toward loftier goals. Foreword by Senator Robert Dole.