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The jewelry of the Wiener Werkstätte blurs the lines between gorgeous ornament and miniature sculpture The Wiener Werkstätte, or Vienna Workshops, was founded in 1903. The firm's artistic cofounders, Josef Hoffmann and Koloman Moser, subscribed to the English Arts and Crafts ideal of exceptionally well-made objects designed by artists and executed by specialized craftsmen. Following the example of near contemporaries René Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany, Hoffmann and Moser shared the belief that jewelry should be valued for its artistic merit and not simply for its monetary value. This opulent publication highlights masterpieces created by the Wiener Werkstätte between 1903 and the early 1920s. It features significant pieces by Josef Hoffmann, Koloman Moser, Carl Otto Czeschka and Dagobert Peche, among others. Supplemental materials include relevant periodicals, design drawings and photographs of prominent clients.
Text by Janis Staggs.
An exhibition of postcards published by the Vienna Workshops beginning in 1907.
A new perspective on woman’s role in the world of art jewelry at the turn of the twentieth century—from Art Nouveau in France and the Arts and Crafts movement in Britain, to Jugendstil in Germany and Austria, Louis Comfort Tiffany in New York, and American Arts and Crafts in Chicago—and the most extensive survey to date of the sheer diversity and beauty of art jewelry during this period. Accompanying a groundbreaking exhibition at The Richard H. Driehaus Museum in Chicago, this lavishly illustrated catalog showcases nearly two hundred stunning pieces from the Driehaus Collection and prominent national collections, many of which have never been seen by the public. Women were not only the intended wearers of art jewelry during the early twentieth century, but also an essential part of its creation. Their work—boldly artistic, exquisitely detailed, hand wrought, and inspired by nature—is now widely sought after by collectors and museums alike. From the world’s first independent female jewelry makers, to the woman as artistic motif, this jewelry reflected rapid changes in definitions of femininity and social norms. Essays by noted scholars explore five different areas of jewelry design and fabrication, and discuss the important female figures and historic social milieu associated with these movements—from the suffragists and the Rational Dress Society in England; to the Wiener Werkstätte and Gustav Klimt; and the Art Nouveau masters René Lalique and Alphonse Mucha, who depicted otherworldly women in jewelry for equally fascinating patrons like Sarah Bernhardt. The essays are illustrated by historic photographs and decorative arts of the period as well as the extraordinary pieces themselves: hair combs, bracelets, brooches, and tiaras executed in moonstones, translucent horn, enamel, opals, aquamarines, and much more. As Driehaus writes in his introduction to Maker & Muse, “Essential as these elements are, the metal and gemstones of a necklace—or a brooch or a bracelet—are like a canvas. It is the designer who evokes true greatness, beauty, and value from them. Neither monumental nor mass-produced, the object contains a memory of a particular artist’s skilled hand.”
The patterns and prints of the Wiener Werkstatte were among the most popular and successful textile designs of the early twentieth century, reflecting both the tastes of Viennese society and general trends toward artistic abstractionism. They are presented here in an unparalleled compilation.
Around 1900 the Pforzheim jewellery-making industry, which had been established since 1767, underwent an upturn to flourish as never before. The participation of Pforzheim businesses in the 1900 Paris World Exhibition and the thorough assimilation of a variety of influences from abroad - including the figurative French Art Nouveau style - ensured that Pforzheim Art Nouveau jewellery developed confidently towards aesthetic autonomy. Collaboration between the jewellery industry and professors at the Pforzheim School for the Applied Arts as well as sharp eyes for new developments outside the jewellery capital shaped Pforzheim jewellery creations around 1900. Other fecund sources of collaboration were the Darmstadt Mathildenhöhe artists and Wiener Werkstätte. The author has discovered hitherto unpublished contemporary source material and has been able to draw on hundreds of extant original pieces of jewellery - brooches, pendants, collars, hatpins and hair combs that are now in museums, private collections and on the art market - to make a choice selection for this book. Thus a living picture emerges of the diverse formal and technical possibilities that gave rise to the design, craftsmanship and industrial manufacture characteristic of Pforzheim Art Nouveau jewellery. Text in English and German.
Jewellery.
As teacher, artist, craftsman and co-founder of the Vienna Secession, Koloman Moser (1868-1918) had an immense influence on the tastes of his time. His talents ranged from stained glass to stage design and postage stamps, and he devoted his latter years to painting.
Tracing the career of Koloman Moser, one of the most influential figures in 20th-century design, this stunning book focuses on Moser’s accomplishments in the decorative arts. During his short career, Koloman Moser became a towering figure in Viennese culture. His varied work in interior and graphic design, furniture, textiles, jewelry, metalwork, glass, and earthenware helped usher in the modern era. This book surveys the entirety of Moser’s oeuvre. It examines his work as a graphic designer and his involvement with the Vienna Secession, with special focus given to his role as an illustrator for the journal Ver Sacrum (Sacred Spring). Moser’s forays into textile design and ceramic work are also introduced. The book features his designs for the Vienna Secession, Thonet Brothers, and the Mautner family, among others that characterize his early modern style. The book also explores Moser’s seminal role as a founding member of the Vienna Workshops, along with architect Josef Hoffmann and patron Fritz Waerndorfer. Included are many reproductions of Moser’s masterpieces, including the window of the Steinhof Chapel, his exhibition posters, postage stamps and currency, and elegant examples from his design portfolio, "The Source."