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This vintage book contains a comprehensive textbook for clothing designers, teachers of clothing technology, and senior students. With detailed diagrams and a wealth of useful and interesting information, this timeless handbook is highly recommended for those with an interest in fashion and design, and would make for a worthy addition to collections of related literature. Contents include: “The Human Body”, “Physical Proportions”, “The Sizing of Garments”, “Size and Movement”, “The Garment Pattern”, “Garment Balance”, “Measurement”, “Applying The Measurements to the Pattern”, “Garment Shape”, “The Designing of Speciality Garments”, and “The Grading of Patterns”. Many vintage books such as this are becoming increasingly scarce and expensive. We are republishing this volume now in an affordable, high-quality edition complete with a specially commissioned new introduction on embroidery.
Fashion designers are presented with a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives. This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction. Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construction theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechanical points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This methodology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction, and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional possibilities in dress.
Summary: "The perfect introduction to the core principles of garment construction, "How Patterns Work" simplifies and explains the relationship between pattern making and the body." -- Back cover.
An introduction to the basic principles of pattern cutting, this practical book shows students how to interpret the human form and look at clothing through the eyes of a designer rather than a consumer. As well as explaining the proportions of human anatomy, the book introduces key tools and then takes the reader from simple pattern-cutting ideas to more advanced creative methods. Finally, the book looks at the work of fashion designers who are masters of pattern cutting, such as Comme des GarCons, John Galliano, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake. With photographs of final and dissected garments, along with CAD/CAM diagrams to explain how those pieces were cut, the book will gradually build an understanding of pattern cutting, and enable students to experiment and create exciting patterns for their own designs.
Construction is the foundation of fashion design; it takes passion and great skill to turn a two-dimensional drawing into a successful garment. Construction for Fashion Design guides readers through the process, teaching the theory, practical skills and techniques that they need to succeed. It leads readers through the essential stages of creating a garment, from pattern cutting and draping on the mannequin to sewing techniques and haberdashery. This fully revised and expanded second edition features insightful case studies with leading creative practitioners at the cutting edge of the fashion industry today, complete with detailed, step-by-step exercises that enable readers to contextualise their knowledge and put it into practise for the creation of their own successful projects.
Connie Crawford would like to introduce you to this new up-to-date edition of Patternmaking Made Easy.The strength of Patternmaking Made Easy is the visually apparent instructional layout. Continuity between frames is clear. Each concept is laid out seamlessly on one page or facing pages. Yet each pattern process is complete and hasn¿t sacrificed detail at the expense of instruction. Each subject is approached thoroughly with simple directness so that the average student may enjoy this logical journey into the world of fashion.Connie¿s drafting techniques are the same REQUIRED methods in the fashion industry. She demonstrates pants for smaller and mature figures, princess seams, plackets, bustiers, knit designs, lingerie and tailoring -- just to name a few. All the techniques needed to draft flat patterns for bodices, skirts, pants, jackets, and sleeves are in this mammoth 459 page, spiral bound hardback. It will provide patternmakers with the means to execute all of their creative ideas in a nearly infinite variety of clothing styles.
The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers: Menswear offers patternmaking techniques for a variety of garment styles and includes information on sizing, lining and a variety of fabrics. Covering everything from casual to tailored designs, it can serve both as an introduction to the pattern-drafting skills necessary for menswear and as a more in-depth treatment of patternmaking techniques. The guide covers the patternmaking process for an array of menswear garments, as well as the accompanying theories and concepts.
Draping—the art of using cotton muslin to create womenswear directly on a dress form—is an essential skill for fashion designers. Through a series of step-by-step projects, designed to develop skills from the most basic to more advanced techniques, this book will guide you in creating both classic and contemporary garments, as well as historical styles and costumes. Draping projects include dresses, bustiers, and jackets, and highlight key fashion garments such as Audrey Hepburn's dress from Breakfast at Tiffany’s and the Dolce & Gabbana tuxedo jacket. Starting with the basics of choosing and preparing the dress form for draping, the book advances through pinning, trimming, and clipping, and creating shape using darts and tucks, to adding volume using pleats and gathers, and handling complex curves. Advanced skills include how to use support elements such as shoulder pads, under layers, and petticoats, and how to handle bias draping. The book culminates with a chapter on improvisational skills. Each skill and technique throughout the book is explained with step-by-step photographs and line drawings that bring the art of creating womenswear in three dimensions to life.