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This magesterial and thrilling history argues that the story of American mountaineering is the story of America itself. In Continental Divide, Maurice Isserman tells the history of American mountaineering through four centuries of landmark climbs and first ascents. Mountains were originally seen as obstacles to civilization; over time they came to be viewed as places of redemption and renewal. The White Mountains stirred the transcendentalists; the Rockies and Sierras pulled explorers westward toward Manifest Destiny; Yosemite inspired the early environmental conservationists. Climbing began in North America as a pursuit for lone eccentrics but grew to become a mass-participation sport. Beginning with Darby Field in 1642, the first person to climb a mountain in North America, Isserman describes the exploration and first ascents of the major American mountain ranges, from the Appalachians to Alaska. He also profiles the most important American mountaineers, including such figures as John C. Frémont, John Muir, Annie Peck, Bradford Washburn, Charlie Houston, and Bob Bates, relating their exploits both at home and abroad. Isserman traces the evolving social, cultural, and political roles mountains played in shaping the country. He describes how American mountaineers forged a "brotherhood of the rope," modeled on America’s unique democratic self-image that characterized climbing in the years leading up to and immediately following World War II. And he underscores the impact of the postwar "rucksack revolution," including the advances in technique and style made by pioneering "dirtbag" rock climbers. A magnificent, deeply researched history, Continental Divide tells a story of adventure and aspiration in the high peaks that makes a vivid case for the importance of mountains to American national identity.
-- Articles on all significant climbs of 2000-- Authors include some of the finest climbers of our time, such as Scott Backes, Marko Prezelj, Valeri Babanov, and Thomas Huber, as well as virtuoso newcomers Jonathon Copp and lan Parnell-- More than 150 photos, maps, and toposThis latest volume of climbing's journal of record offers the most complete picture available of who did what in 2000. Jonathon Copp relates the stunning accomplishments of his light and fast Karakoram expedition with Michael Pennings, while Steve House and Rolando Garibotti discuss the state of the art in Alaskan and Patagonian alpinism. If it happened in the world of climbing, it's in the AAJ.Founded in 1902, the American Alpine Club (AAC) is the leading national organization devoted to mountaineering and rock climbing, to the conservation and study of mountainous regions, and to representing the interests of the American climbing community. The AAC is based in Golden, Colorado.
Winner of the 2020 National Outdoor Book Award for Best History/Biography A saga of survival, technological innovation, and breathtaking human physical achievement -- all set against the backdrop of a world headed toward war -- that became one of the most compelling international dramas of the 20th century. As tension steadily rose between European powers in the 1930s, a different kind of battle was already raging across the Himalayas. Teams of mountaineers from Great Britain, Nazi Germany, and the United States were all competing to be the first to climb the world's highest peaks, including Mount Everest and K2. Unlike climbers today, they had few photographs or maps, no properly working oxygen systems, and they wore leather boots and cotton parkas. Amazingly, and against all odds, they soon went farther and higher than anyone could have imagined. And as they did, their story caught the world's attention. The climbers were mobbed at train stations, and were featured in movies and plays. James Hilton created the mythical land of Shangri-La in Lost Horizon, while an English eccentric named Maurice Wilson set out for Tibet in order to climb Mount Everest alone. And in the darkened corridors of the Third Reich, officials soon discovered the propaganda value of planting a Nazi flag on top of the world's highest mountains Set in London, New York, Germany, and in India, China, and Tibet, The World Beneath Their Feet is a story not only of climbing and mountain climbers, but also of passion and ambition, courage and folly, tradition and innovation, tragedy and triumph. Scott Ellsworth tells a rollicking, real-life adventure story that moves seamlessly from the streets of Manhattan to the footlights of the West End, deadly avalanches on Nanga Parbat, rioting in the Kashmir, and the wild mountain dreams of a New Zealand beekeeper named Edmund Hillary and a young Sherpa runaway called Tenzing Norgay. Climbing the Himalayas was the Greatest Generation's moonshot-one that was clouded by the onset of war and then, incredibly, fully accomplished. A gritty, fascinating history that promises to enrapture fans of Hampton Sides, Erik Larson, Jon Krakauer, and Laura Hillenbrand, The World Beneath Their Feet brings this forgotten story back to life.
Winner! 2012 American Alpine Club Literary Prize (USA) Winner! 2011 Munday Award, Banff Mountain Festival (CANADA) Winner! 2011 Boardman Tasker Prize, Kendal Mountain Festival (UNITED KINGDOM) Freedom Climbers—the most honoured book of mountaineering literature published in Canada—tells the story of a group of extraordinary Polish adventurers who emerged from under the blanket of oppression following the Second World War to become the world's leading Himalayan climbers. Although they lived in a dreary, war-ravaged landscape, with seemingly no hope of creating a meaningful life, these curious, motivated and skilled mountaineers created their own free-market economy under the very noses of their Communist bosses and climbed their way to liberation. At a time when Polish citizens were locked behind the Iron Curtain, these intrepid explorers found a way to travel the world in search of extreme adventure—to Alaska, South America and Europe, but mostly to the highest and most inspiring mountains of the world. To this end, Afghanistan, India, Pakistan and Nepal became their second homes as they evolved into the toughest group of Himalayan climbers the world has ever known.
Published annually since 1929, the American Alpine Journal is internationally renowned as the finest of its kind-the world's journal of record for documenting big new routes and remote mountain exploration. This is the reference for anyone planning anything new in the mountains or venturing into remote ranges. This book contains nearly 200 pages of exciting stories about the most important climbs of the year-as told by the climbers themselves; and about 300 photographs, many with route overlays, and 20 locator maps. In continuing celebration of the American Alpine Club's centennial.
Patagonia’s Cerro Torre, considered by many the most beautiful peak in the world, draws the finest and most devoted technical alpinists to its climbing challenges. But controversy has swirled around this ice-capped peak since Cesare Maestri claimed first ascent in 1959. Since then a debate has raged, with world-class climbers attempting to retrace his route but finding only contradictions. This chronicle of hubris, heroism, controversies and epic journeys offers a glimpse into the human condition, and why some pursue extreme endeavors that at face value have no worth.
* A classic of mountaineering literature * Beckey's name is synonymous with mountaineering in Alaska, Canada and the western US * Peppered with personal anecdotes and unique photographs This biography of Alaska's Mount McKinley presents a complete history of one of the world's great mountains. Author and famed mountaineer Fred Beckey starts with McKinley's geology and covers early human history, from native associations with Denali to the influx of Russian fur traders and American prospectors. The mountaineering history of McKinley follows, with a look at the gold seekers and surveyors who were among the first to map the region. Beckey examines the efforts of those who raced to be first on McKinley's summit and details the first complete ascent by Hudson Stuck in 1913. The chronology continues with profiles of notable summit attempts, including those of the author himself. Also included is information about the challenges and logistics of climbing Mount McKinley, with information on planning, permits, suggested routes, and what to expect. Personal anecdotes and previously unpublished photographs make this volume a must-have for historians and climbers everywhere.