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"When a rich man in seventeenth-century South Asia enjoyed a peaceful night's sleep, he imagined himself enveloped in a velvet sleep. In the poetic imagination of the time, the fine dew of early evening was like a thin cotton cloth from Bengal, and woolen shawls of downy pashmina sent by the Mughal emperors to their trusted noblemen approximated the soft hand of the ruler on the vassal's shoulder. Textiles in seventeenth-century South Asia represented more than cloth to their makers and users. They simulated sensory experience, from natural, environmental conditions to intimate, personal touch. The Art of Cloth in Mughal India is the first art historical account of South Asian textiles from the early modern era. Author Sylvia Houghteling resurrects a truth that seventeenth-century world citizens knew, but which has been forgotten in the modern era: South Asian cloth ranked among the highest forms of art in the global hierarchy of luxury goods, and had a major impact on culture and communication. While studies abound in economic history about the global trade in Indian textiles that flourished from the seventeenth to the nineteenth centuries, they rarely engage with the material itself and are less concerned with the artistic-and much less the literary and social-significance of the taste for cloth. This book is richly illustrated with images of textiles, garments, and paintings that are held in little-known collections and have rarely, if ever, been published. Rather than rely solely on records of European trading companies, Houghteling draws upon poetry in local languages and integrates archival research from unpublished royal Indian inventories to tell a new history of this material culture, one with a far more balanced view of its manufacture and use, as well as its purchase and trade"--
An essential book for those interested in Indian style and culture.
After years of searching through dusty museum collections and royal stores across India, acclaimed designer Ritu Kumar has uncovered many of the last surviving examples of traditional royal clothing. Her book is a celebration of this rich legacy of textiles and craftsmanship. This in-depth study of the evolution of Indian royal costume spans the centuries from the first representations of clothing in ancient India, through the reign of the Mughal emperors and the days of the British Raj, to Indian independence and royalty in the present day. The author covers both men's and women's garments, Hindu and Muslim styles, and documents the evolution of European-Indian fashions. This sumptuous volume is illustrated with a variety of material, much of which has never been published before ranging from archive photographs, miniatures, royal portraits and cinema stills, to detailed images of garments and textiles from as far back as the seventeenth century. A separate section explains in detail the techniques behind the traditional crafts of weaving, dyeing, printing and embroidery, with sketches and patterns illustrating a variety of garments. Specially commissioned photographs of members of royalty wearing their traditional clothes emphasise the colour, shape, ornament and texture of these stunning costumes. This royal family album is supplemented by stories of royal India told to the author by the last Rajmatas who still remember the splendours of courtly life. AUTHOR: Ritu Kumar is one of India's foremost designers, who has developed a unique style combining the ancient traditions of Indian craftsmanship with contemporary innovations. She began her work many years ago in a small village near Calcutta with just four hand-block printers and a couple of tables. 360 colour & 100 b/w illustrations
Handbook of Museum Textiles Textiles have been known to us throughout human history and played a vital role in the lives and traditions of people. Clothing was made by using different materials and methods from natural fibers. There are different varieties of textiles, out of which certain traditional textiles, archaeological findings, or fragments are of cultural, historical, and sentimental value such as tapestries, embroideries, flags, shawls, etc. These kinds of textiles, due to their historical use and environmental factors, require special attention to guarantee their long-term stability. Textile conservation is a complex, challenging, and multi-faceted discipline and it is one of the most versatile branches of conservation. Volume 1 of the Handbook of Museum Textiles focuses on conservation and cultural research and addresses the proper display, storage, upkeep, handling, and conservation technology of textile artifacts to ensure their presence for coming generations. Spread over 19 chapters, the volume is a unique body of knowledge of theoretical and practical details of museum practices. Chapters on textile museums, the importance of cultural heritage, conservation, and documentation of textiles are covered in depth. Conservation case studies and examples are highlighted in many chapters. Management practices and guidelines to pursue a career in the museum textile field have been given due attention. The respective authors of the chapters are of international repute and are researchers, academicians, conservators, and curators in this field. Audience The book is a unique asset for textile researchers, fine art scholars, archaeologists, museum curators, designers, and those who are interested in the field of traditional or historic textile collections.
Of All The Indian Handicrafts, Textiles Form A Class By Themselves Over Which The Rest Of The World Went Into Ecstasies From Time Immemorial.With An Enormous Store Of Myths, Symbols, Imagery And Inspiration From Other Art Forms Indian Textile-Craft Never Faced A Slump Or Stagnation. On The Other Hand It Transcended From A Craft Identity To The Status Of An Art.With Shades Of Classicism, Folk Tradition And Regional Flavour The Rich And Unrivalled Fabrics Of India Have Rightly Been Called Exquisite Poetry In Colour .Indian Fabric Art Can Be Classified Into Three Broad Categories Woven, Painted Or Printed And Embroidered. Within This Broad Outline The Present Study Pinpoints The Historical Background Of Some Representative Forms Each Unique In Its Distinctiveness.A Search For Any Linkage With Allied Art Forms As Well As Their Socio-Cultural Significance Also Provides A New Perspective.Though Apparently Widely Dispersed In Contents, They Form A Composite Tapestry Of Indian Fabric Art Tradition And Call For More Scrutiny Before Our Precious Heirlooms Are Totally Submerged In The Tide Of The Synthetic Era. The Book Is Enriched By Illustrations Of Rare Specimens Of Historical Art Fabrics Collected From Different Museums In The Country. Coupled With Extensive References This Volume Spotlights A New Facet Of Indian Art Heritage Which Will Fascinate Both The Social Scientists As Well As The Connoisseurs Of Indian Art And Culture.
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