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★ 120 pages college ruled ★ Paperback ★ Size 8,5" x 11" inch Surfer Paradis with the waves to ride. Water sports at its finest. Notebook for every surfer and surfer. Bodysurfing in the best surf zone. Only the thick crushers are something for you, then grab your board and get on the water
Combining color photography with authoritative text, "The Ultimate Guide To Surfing" offers tips and techniques, terms and key skills to get the most out of the sport. The authors employ the latest technique to create a holistic approach centered around a sound mental attitude and correct body equilibrium. Photos.
Instagram sensation Clark Little shares his most remarkable photographs from inside the breaking wave, with a foreword by world surfing champion Kelly Slater. “One of the world’s most amazing water photographers . . . Now we get to experience up-close these moments of bliss.”—Jack Johnson, musician and environmentalist Surfer and photographer Clark Little creates deceptively peaceful pictures of waves by placing himself under the deadly lip as it is about to hit the sand. "Clark's view" is a rare and dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. Thanks to his uncanny ability to get the perfect shot--and live to share it--Little has garnered a devout audience, been the subject of award-winning documentaries, and become one of the world's most recognizable wave photographers. Clark Little: The Art of Waves compiles over 150 of his images, including crystalline breaking waves, the diverse marine life of Hawaii, and mind-blowing aerial photography. This collection features his most beloved pictures, as well as work that has never been published in book form, with Little's stories and insights throughout. Journalist Jamie Brisick contributes essays on how Clark gets the shot, how waves are created, swimming with sharks, and more. With a foreword by eleven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater and an afterword by the author on his photographic practice and technique, Clark Little: The Art of Waves offers a rare view of the wave for us to enjoy from the safety of land.
In Surfing the Border, Serge Dedina takes us on a journey into the world of surf culture and travels around the globe to highlight how surfing connects us to the increasingly scarce natural and cultural niches that remain. Whether he is exploring the wilds of Mexico and Australia or getting a surfing makeover from his teenage sons, Serge Dedina shows us with humor and passion, how riding waves is a gateway to the world beyond the beach.
Many people have lamented the pollution and outright loss of beaches along the coasts of California and Mexico, but very few people have fought on behalf of beaches as hardÑor as successfullyÑas Serge Dedina. Whether taking on an international conglomerate or tackling a state transportation agency, Dedina is truly an eco-warrior. In this sparkling collection of articles, many written for popular magazines, Dedina tells the stories as only an insider could. He writes with a firm grasp of facts along with an advocateÕs passion and outrage. Sprinkled with just the right mix of humor and surf lingo, DedinaÕs writing is Òweapons gradeÓÑsurfer speak for totally awesome. Dedina grew up in Imperial Beach, California, just north of the Mexican border, and he feels equally at home in Mexico and the States. An expert on gray whales, he eloquently describes the fight he helped to lead against the Mitsubishi Corporation, whose plan to build a salt-processing plant in the San Ignacio Lagoon in Baja California would have destroyed the worldÕs last undeveloped gray whale lagoon. With similar fervor, Dedina describes helping to construct the unlikely coalition that succeeded in defeating a proposed toll road that would have decimated a legendary California surf spot. In between, he writes about the first surfers in Baja, the Great Baja Land Rush of the 1990s, TijuanaÕs punk music scene, the pop-culture wrestling phenomenon lucha libre, the reasons why ocean pollution must be stopped, and the way HBO took over his hometown. Anyone interested in whatÕs happening to our natural places or just yearning to read about someone really making a difference in the world will find this a book worth sinking their teeth into.
From the bestselling author of Savages (now an Oliver Stone film). As cool as its California surfer heroes, Don Winslow delivers a high velocity, darkly comic, and totally righteous crime novel. Every morning Boone Daniels catches waves with the other members of The Dawn Patrol: four men and one woman as single-minded about surfing as he is. Or nearly. They have "real j-o-b-s"; Boone, however, works as a PI just enough to keep himself afloat. But Boone's most recent gig-investigating an insurance scam—has unexpectedly led him to a ghost from his past. And while he may have to miss the biggest swell of his surfing career, this job is about to give him a wilder ride than anything he's ever encountered. Filled with killer waves and a coast line to break your heart, The Dawn Patrol will leave you gasping for air.
"Heart warming read that discusses depression, radical life change, and muses on the plight of the lifelong intermediate... grab a copy on Amazon" - David Lee Scales, Surf Splendor Podcast "I can recommend this book for non-surfers as much as surfers. It goes a long way towards explaining the hook that keeps people addicted to surfing and provides some personal lessons that can be applied to all walks of life" - Charlie Spurr - The Museum of British Surfing "Once I started reading, I couldn't put it down. The writing is wonderful and Simon really nails it when he defines what an average surfer is and how surfing affects us all" - Imi Barneaud, The Ocean Riders Podcast "Short uses the term "average" not as in mediocre, but to make it relatable to the masses of surfers who are not professionals, and not beginners, but the wave-riders in between. He teaches life lessons with every chapter. You can be scared, intimidated, proud and brave, all in one session" - The Orange County Register From the author of "A Story about Surfing, Identity and Depression" comes the #1 New Release 'The Average Surfer's Guide' The Average Surfer's Guide to Travel, Waves and Progression is a book about surfing as much as it is about mental health, life balance and prioritizing one's passions. The author explores the metaphysical effects of surfing, the biological effects of surfing and how the sport, percolated into a lifestyle opens us up to travel, adventure, community and a true belonging and identity. The book takes us into situations that many are familiar with, but few of us speak of. Short bravely shares details from his darker days fighting a severe depression before learning some valuable life lessons. "Simon Short sat at the end of a Newport Beach rock jetty in the darkness, clutching a gun and ready to end his life as his depression hit an all-time low. For years, Short thought he was on the right track. The surfer from England moved to California after visiting for a surf trip in his early 20s, met a girl who became his wife and had a career as a police officer near Palm Springs. This was what he was supposed to do, right? When it all came crashing down a few years later, he found himself staring out into the ocean, the place that had been his one constant source of solace since he was a teen." Feb 2019 - The OC Register The Average Surfer's Guide takes a unique approach by forgetting the glamour of professional surfing and telling honest, humorous and engaging stories from a true, every-day, average surfer. The book teaches us how to progress away from complacency, both in our surfing and our everyday lives. In the end, this book will make you a better surfer. Not through technique but through teaching a new mindset and outlook towards life and surfing. The Average Surfer's Guide takes us on a journey from dark to light and teaches us how to live a true, balanced life that is authentic to who we are and what makes us happy. In this case, surfing.
The history of Hawaii may be said to be the story of arrivals -- from the eruption of volcanoes on the ocean floor 18,000 feet below to the first hardy seeds that over millennia found their way to the islands, and the confused birds blown from their migratory routes. Early Polynesian adventurers sailed across the Pacific in double canoes. Spanish galleons en route to the Philippines and British navigators in search of a Northwest Passage were soon followed by pious Protestant missionaries, shipwrecked sailors, and rowdy Irish poachers escaped from Botany Bay -- all wanderers washed ashore. This is true of many cultures, but in Hawaii, no one seems to have left. And in Hawaii, a set of myths accompanied each of these migrants -- legends that shape our understanding of this mysterious place. Susanna Moore pieces together the story of late-eighteenth-century Hawaii -- its kings and queens, gods and goddesses, missionaries, migrants, and explorers -- a not-so-distant time of abrupt transition, in which an isolated pagan world of human sacrifice and strict taboo, without a currency or a written language, was confronted with the equally ritualized world of capitalism, Western education, and Christian values.
New York magazine was born in 1968 after a run as an insert of the New York Herald Tribune and quickly made a place for itself as the trusted resource for readers across the country. With award-winning writing and photography covering everything from politics and food to theater and fashion, the magazine's consistent mission has been to reflect back to its audience the energy and excitement of the city itself, while celebrating New York as both a place and an idea.