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In Bill Missetts final chapter of Soul Surfer Johnnys adventures, we are taken through the journeys of many thrill seeking travelers, as Johnny and his wife Mia finally move to Puerto permanently, and their adventure begins anew. He and Mia meet countless soul surfers who add ingredients to the secret recipe that eventually becomes an award winning course of life to be enjoyed by the two true lovers. As Johnny matures in his new home of Puerto Tranquilo, he learns to digest and learn from the stories of those who have been through what he is currently experiencing. Missett conveys all of the life lessons the couple soaks in during what can only be described as a rich life without riches. They build a popular restaurant, a beautiful home, and more importantly, a bucket list of friends and memories. The surf remains an important part of their lives, but in this final chapter, Johnny and Mia drop into a veritable Mexican Pipeline barrel, breathing in every detail. Luckily, a writer like Missett is able to bring us back through that barrel in magnificent detail. We get to know so many characters from the previous chapters as well as new names. Several members of the famous crowd of Puerto regulars get to add their input this time. Their stories are told in first person, adding a great feeling of unedited authenticity. Several of the local famosos reappear, and some of the Puerto Elders walk us through the life and times of the enigmatic surf town. Missett writes in such a way that informs, intrigues, and entertains. This is the most entertaining of his works and deserves a loud applause. To be intrigued, you must read the earlier Soul Surfer Johnny books. To be truly informed, everyone should read his earlier Awakening the Soul series. A favorite author of all who read his works, Missett put together a great collaboration of stories with Soul Surfer Johnny Rips. However, in all honesty, we all hope that Johnny has another wave to catch through Bill Missetts eyes. Thomas Wilson
This special edition of the "Soul Surfer Johnny" trilogy brings all three books together in one volume, with a special bonus chapter of 15 new stories. It includes the complete versions of "Soul Surfer Johnny," "Soul Surfer Johnny Returns," and "Soul Surfer Johnny Rips" intact and unabridged. Plus a new 12,000-word segment of new stories.
While writing Soul Surfer Johnny, the first book in this series, I was flooded with so many additional memories of “Puerto Tranquilo” that I knew a second book was waiting to be written. By the time the first book was finished, I had jotted down more than 125 other memorable episodes. I was challenged to write the book that became Soul Surfer Johnny by Joel Fotinos, vice president for spiritual books for Penguin-Putnam publishers, during a lunch we had in 2007. He had just read my Awakening The Soul: The Trilogy, and challenged me to write a novel incorporating the essence of that tome, ala the most successful novel of the millennium, Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code. While Soul Surfer Johnny is certainly no Da Vinci Code, it does carry forth that essence of spiritual growth, describing a young man’s soul awakening. The heart of the story, however, remains his many wild surfing adventures, most in Puerto. But it wasn’t planned that way. A number of years ago, I began compiling a list of topics for my Puerto book, which I knew I would write some day. But I had no plans of incorporating those memories into the book Fotinos challenged me to write, revealing how to create the spiritual awakening possible within each of us. However, when I started writing, it was immediately apparent where this story was going ... to Puerto, where my personal spiritual awakening occurred some 25 years earlier. Thus, the first Soul Surfer Johnny book had a serious underlying story of spiritual awakening that seemed out of place in a surfing adventure novel. But it really wasn’t, because what was being portrayed as happening to Johnny really had happened to me, and has occurred to others, so I knew it was eminently possible. I had so much fun writing Soul Surfer Johnny that I immediately started writing this book, its direct sequel, but with a difference. This volume does not have that heavy underlying story of spiritual growth, but rather only occasional references to Johnny’s continuing awakening. It’s mostly outrageous tales of his many Puerto adventures and episodes. This book richly continues the adventures of Soul Surfer Johnny, the story of an East Coast bad boy who becomes a good kid as he learns to surf in the waves off Southern California. In the process, he joins his own sort of “gang,” then ventures south to the big waves of Southern Mexico. He is guided to “Puerto Tranquilo” in the late 1970s by several of his fellow Tyrony Bros. “gang” members, who had discovered the fantastic surf break there several years before. There he is witness to and participates in a bizarre series of adventures. Unexpectedly, he begins to explore his spirituality, and discovers his true inner self for the first time, dramatically improving his life. Like its predecessor, this continuing wild tale is almost true, however sometimes the actual circumstances are slightly “enhanced,” while conveying the basic truth. For example, a few wave heights may have been exaggerated occasionally – except in the “Big Wednesday” chapter, which is Johnny’s true, eye-witness account. But most of the book’s stories actually happened as described. It makes no claim toward being all-inclusive, or a legitimate history of the town. It’s just a lot of mostly true stories about a wonderful little town in Southern Mexico. All stories are re-told as accurately as memory serves.
The almost true story of how a bad boy discovers he's really a nice kid inside, through surfing, self-discovery, wild surfing adventures, and meditation.
Surfing has fascinated filmmakers since Thomas Edison shot footage of Waikiki beachboys in 1906. Before the 1950s surf craze, surfing showed up in travelogues or as exotic background for studio features. The arrival of Gidget (1959) on the big screen swept the sport into popular culture, but surfer-filmmakers were already featuring the day's best surfers in self-narrated two-reelers. Hollywood and independent filmmakers have produced about three dozen surf films in the last half-century, including the frothy Beach Party movies, Point Break (1991) and Chasing Mavericks (2012). From Bud Browne's earliest efforts to The Endless Summer (1966), Riding Giants (2004) and today's brilliant videos, over 1,000 surfing movies have celebrated the stoke. This first full-length study of surf movies gives critical attention to hundreds of the most important films.
This first major examination the interrelationships of music and surfing explores different ways that surfers combine surfing with making and listening to music. Tim Cooley uses his knowledge and experience as a practicing musician and avid surfer to consider the musical practices of surfers in locations around the world, taking into account ideas about surfing as a global affinity group and the real-life stories of surfers and musicians he encounters. In doing so, he expands ethnomusicological thinking about the many ways musical practices are integral to human socializing, creativity, and the condition of being human. Cooley discusses the origins of surfing in Hawai‘i, its central role in Hawaiian society, and the mele (chants) and hula (dance or visual poetry) about surfing. He covers instrumental rock from groups like Dick Dale and the Del Tones and many others, and songs about surfing performed by the Beach Boys. As he traces trends globally, three broad styles emerge: surf music, punk rock, and acoustic singer-songwriter music. Cooley also examines surfing contests and music festivals as well as the music used in a selection surf movies that were particularly influential in shaping the musical practices of significant groups of surfers. Engaging, informative, and enlightening, this book is a fascinating exploration of surfing as a cultural practice with accompanying rituals, habits, and conceptions about who surfs and why, and of how musical ideas and practices are key to the many things that surfing is and aspires to be.
Sportswomen in Cinema considers both documentary and fiction films from a variety of periods and cultures, by directors including Kathryn Bigelow, Gurinder Chadha, Im Soon-rye, George Kukor, Ida Lupino, and Leni Riefenstahl. Drawing from psychoanalytic and phenomenological theories, the book presents a series of landmark close readings of films featuring a variety of different forms of athletic activity, including baseball, basketball, bodybuilding, boxing, climbing, football, rollerderby, surfing, tennis and track and field. In focusing on themes such as gesture, screen space and sound, it moves beyond a purely narrative analysis of sports films. What's more, as well as building on existing scholarship in sports studies to argue that sport should always be conceived of as more than simply competitive, the book also contributes to ongoing efforts in film theory to foster new feminist discourses on sexual difference. The ideas of thinkers such as Judith Butler, Bracha Ettinger, Griselda Pollock and Michel Serres are employed to explore how films featuring female athletes reflect changing perspectives on femininity and sexuality and also, potentially, contribute to transforming our perceptions about sportswomen and cinema. Sportswomen in Cinema is an important addition to the literature of film studies, gender studies and sports studies.