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When Dave Hickey was twelve, he rode the surfer's dream: the perfect wave. And, like so many things in life we long for, it didn't quite turn out - he shot the pier and dashed himself against the rocks of Sunset Cliffs in Ocean Beach, which just about killed him. Fortunately, for Hickey and for us, he survived, and he continues to battle, decades into a career as one of America's foremost critical iconoclasts. He's a trusted, even cherished no-nonsense voice commenting on the all-too-often nonsensical worlds of art and culture. This book brings together essays on a wide range of subjects from throughout Hickey's career, displaying his usual breadth of interest and powerful insight into what makes art work, or not, and why we care. With Hickey as our guide, we travel to Disneyland and Vegas, London and Venice. We discover the genius of Karen Carpenter and Waylon Jennings, learn why Robert Mitchum matters more than Jimmy Stewart, and see how the stillness of Antonioni speaks to us today. Never slow to judge - or to surprise us in doing so - Hickey powerfully relates his wincing disappointment in the later career of his early hero Susan Sontag, and shows us the appeal to our commonality that we've been missing in Norman Rockwell. With each essay, the doing is as important as what's done; the pleasure of reading Dave Hickey lies nearly as much in spending time in his company as in being surprised to find yourself agreeing with his conclusions. -- Description from amazon.com.
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When Dave Hickey was twelve, he rode the surfer’s dream: the perfect wave. And, like so many things in life we long for, it didn’t quite turn out----he shot the pier and dashed himself against the rocks of Sunset Cliffs in Ocean Beach, which just about killed him. Fortunately, for Hickey and for us, he survived, and continues to battle, decades into a career as one of America’s foremost critical iconoclasts, a trusted, even cherished no-nonsense voice commenting on the all-too-often nonsensical worlds of art and culture. Perfect Wave brings together essays on a wide range of subjects from throughout Hickey’s career, displaying his usual breadth of interest and powerful insight into what makes art work, or not, and why we care. With Hickey as our guide, we travel to Disneyland and Vegas, London and Venice. We discover the genius of Karen Carpenter and Waylon Jennings, learn why Robert Mitchum matters more than Jimmy Stewart, and see how the stillness of Antonioni speaks to us today. Never slow to judge—or to surprise us in doing so—Hickey powerfully relates his wincing disappointment in the later career of his early hero Susan Sontag, and shows us the appeal to our commonality that we’ve been missing in Norman Rockwell. With each essay, the doing is as important as what’s done; the pleasure of reading Dave Hickey lies nearly as much in spending time in his company as in being surprised to find yourself agreeing with his conclusions. Bookended by previously unpublished personal essays that offer a new glimpse into Hickey’s own life—including the aforementioned slam-bang conclusion to his youthful surfing career—Perfect Wave is not a perfect book. But it’s a damn good one, and a welcome addition to the Hickey canon.
In 1973, young Kevin Naughton and Craig Peterson took to the road with surfboards, camera gear and an untameable desire for adventure. For ten years they scoured the planet in search of perfect waves and the experiences only a traveler on the road encounters. "Kevin Naughton and Craig Peterson are two surfers who defined surf travel in the early 1970's. They set off with a board each and rough maps, heading for the most remote possible places in West Africa and beyond, all for the quest of undiscovered surf spots. They felt the flow of travel, and they breathed in the air of the countries they visited, writing the odd mystical surf story for SURFER magazine, sending down the occasional alluring image of a wave breaking off a shipwreck, in front of a mile high sand dune, or at the bottom of a sheer cliff." Craig Jarvis, Tracks magazineThis series of books chronicles their journey. Featuring original photos and text from California, Mexico, El Salvador, Costa Rica, West Africa, Sahara Desert, Morocco, Ireland, France, Fiji, South Africa and beyond.
'Alli...there's been an accident.' Her voice grew silent. 'What?' I began to hear sobbing coming from the other end of the line. A sick feeling overtook my whole body. The fear of what I was about to hear became a stronger reality with each of Sara's sobs. 'There was a really bad car accident, and Alli...' She paused and began to cry louder. 'H-He's...gone. He's dead.'Seventeen-year-old Alli Whitton's life just can't get any better. She's one of the best surfers in Huntington Beach, spending every day side by side with her boyfriend, Todd, and just days away from entering the halls of her senior year in high school. Then her dad is transferred miles away from her beloved ocean to the middle of the sweltering Arizona desert, and Alli's perfect life is threatened. It takes an uphill turn, however, when she meets Jake, the school's handsome soccer star, whose sandy blond hair and sharp green eyes remind her how to smile once again. All she needs to do is make it ten long months; then she's free to return to California. But when an unthinkable tragedy occurs, Alli is forced into mourning the loss of a dear loved one, leaving her suffering through the grieving process in a new school with none of her best friends to comfort her. Cheri Miklich'sFinding the Perfect Waveis a romantic coming-of-age drama where readers will learn, along with Alli, to smile and laugh even amidst life's darkest hours. A new romance blooms, hope and faith fight to prevail, and a strong realization of passion for her dreams surfaces as she discovers who she is meant to be. Join Alli as she enters the waters of life and seeks to find the perfect wave!
For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him "the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce" and Vanity Fair called him "a dark prince of the beach." To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.
Just one day after her high-school graduation, eighteen-year-old Alli Whitton flies across the Pacific Ocean to Oahu to pursue her dream of becoming a professional surfer. While leaving her boyfriend, Jake, behind was one of the hardest things she's ever done, she knows she can't pass up this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Alli soon gets a job as a surfing instructor's assistant at a prominent island resort. There she meets the handsome Tim Bentley, a fellow instructor. The two get off to a rocky start but soon strike up an unlikely friendship. As Alli's long-distance relationship grows strained and she begins spending more time with Tim, things between them start to heat up. But when Alli finally gets the chance to try out for a professional surfing team and asks Tim to be her coach, she knows they need to keep their relationship strictly professional. After weeks of training, Alli lands a coveted spot on the surfing team. Her dream has finally come true! But life has different plans for Alli, as she suffers a devastating injury during her first surfing competition and is out of the race to become the region's best surfer. On top of her shattered surfing dreams, when the strain of a relationship across the ocean proves too much to handle, Alli and Jake call it quits for good. Tim consoles Alli during her time of need, but when they begin to explore their feelings for each other, Tim believes Alli is simply on the rebound. Will Alli convince Tim that her feelings are real? Will she eventually find herself Riding the Perfect Wave?
"Love and The Perfect Wave" is Rachel's story. Rachel doesn't really care about perfect waves, she cares about the perfect man. Her only reason for learning to surf is to impress Steve, the guy she has had a crush on for years and has finally managed to get into bed.Now she's trying to cover up the fact that she's been a desperate workaholic for the last ten years, before he notices.Gym work outs, lingerie shopping trips and a serious spring clean are on the cards, but will it all be enough to keep him interested?
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Instagram sensation Clark Little shares his most remarkable photographs from inside the breaking wave, with a foreword by world surfing champion Kelly Slater. “One of the world’s most amazing water photographers . . . Now we get to experience up-close these moments of bliss.”—Jack Johnson, musician and environmentalist Surfer and photographer Clark Little creates deceptively peaceful pictures of waves by placing himself under the deadly lip as it is about to hit the sand. "Clark's view" is a rare and dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. Thanks to his uncanny ability to get the perfect shot--and live to share it--Little has garnered a devout audience, been the subject of award-winning documentaries, and become one of the world's most recognizable wave photographers. Clark Little: The Art of Waves compiles over 150 of his images, including crystalline breaking waves, the diverse marine life of Hawaii, and mind-blowing aerial photography. This collection features his most beloved pictures, as well as work that has never been published in book form, with Little's stories and insights throughout. Journalist Jamie Brisick contributes essays on how Clark gets the shot, how waves are created, swimming with sharks, and more. With a foreword by eleven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater and an afterword by the author on his photographic practice and technique, Clark Little: The Art of Waves offers a rare view of the wave for us to enjoy from the safety of land.