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Explore medieval fashions through illuminated manuscripts—from the luxurious garments worn by royalty to the modest clothes of the peasantry. From the costly velvets and furs worn by kings to the undyed wools and rough linens of the peasantry, the clothing worn by the various classes in the Middle Ages played an integral role in medieval society. In addition to providing clues to status, profession, and/or geographic origin, textiles were a crucial element in the economies of many countries and cities. Much of what is known about medieval fashion is gleaned from the pages of manuscripts, which serve as a rich source of imagery. This volume provides a detailed look at both the actual fabrics and composition of medieval clothing as well as the period’s attitude toward fashion through an exploration of illuminated manuscripts in the collection of the J. Paul Getty Museum. The last portion of the book is dedicated to the depiction of clothing in biblical times and the ancient world as seen through a medieval lens. Throughout, excerpts from literary sources of the period help shed light on the perceived role and function of fashion in daily life.
Precisely rendered to dazzle the eye with their botanical accuracy, the sumptuous arrays of fruit and flowers by Dutch painter Jan van Huysum (1682-1749) were among the most avidly collected paintings of the 18th century. This little book explores two of Van Huysum's most important still-life paintings, Vase of Flowers and Fruit Piece.
Margaret Scott presents a fascinating narrative of the history of European clothing for roughly 600 years from the tenth century onwards. Illuminated manuscripts are a treasure trove of information on the clothing people wore, or wanted to be seen to wear, in greater or lesser European courts, but she reminds us that written records, like household accounts, are a valuable complement to the pictures.
The book presents the contributions to an interdisciplinary conference organized by the Historical Institute of the University of Berne and the Abegg-Stiftung in Riggisberg in the year 2006. Renowned scholars of various historic disciplines here study aspects of the form, evolution and meaning of medieval clothing. Three main themes, in which differing perspectives and research traditions are reflected, stand at the center of the book: single pieces of clothing such as headwear or shoes, social differentiation in for instance princely, urban or monastic dress as well as the symbolic content of fashion and clothing.
"[The authors] provide a visual snap shot of the courtly elegance and common wear the [medieval] period. Filled with hundreds of sketches taken from original sources, mechanical drawings, and detailed 'layer drawings' demonstrating how the clothing was worn, this entrée both introduces the period and helps newcomers find their way forward in the study of primary and secondary sources."--Back cover.
An astonishing number of medieval garments survive, more-or-less complete. Here the authors present 100 items, ranging from homely to princely. The book’s wide-ranging introduction discusses the circumstances in which garments have survived to the present; sets and collections; constructional and decorative techniques; iconography; inscriptions on garments; style and fashion. Detailed descriptions and discussions explain technique and ornament, investigate alleged associations with famous people (many of them spurious) and demonstrate, even when there are no known associations, how a garment may reveal its own biography: a story that can include repair, remaking, recycling; burial, resurrection and veneration; accidental loss or deliberate deposition. The authors both have many publications in the field of medieval studies, including previous collaborations on medieval textiles such as Medieval Textiles of the British Isles AD 450-1100: an Annotated Bibliography (2007), the Encyclopedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles of the British Isles (2012) and online bibliographies.
A comprehensive study of dress in Northern Europe from the early fourteenth century to the beginning of the Renaissance,Illuminating Fashion is the first thorough study of the history of fashion in this period based solely on firmly dated or datable works of art. It draws on illuminated manuscripts, early printed books, tapestries, paintings, and sculpture from museums and libraries around the world. "Symbolism and metaphors are buried in the art of fashion," says Roger Wieck, the editor ofIlluminating Fashion. Examining the role of social customs and politics in influencing dress, at a time of rapid change in fashion, this fully illustrated volume demonstrates the richness of such symbolism in medieval art and how artists used clothing and costume to help viewers interpret an image. At the heart of the work isA Pictorial History of Fashion, 1325 to 1515, an album of over 300 illustrations with commentary. This is followed by a comprehensive glossary of medieval English and French clothing terms and an extensive list of dated and datable works of art. Not only can this fully illustrated volume be used as guide to a fuller understanding of the works of art, it can also help date an undated work; reveal the shape and structure of actual garments; and open up a picture's iconographic and social content. It is invaluable for costume designers, students and scholars of the history of dress and history of art, as well as those who need to date works of art.
The best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. Topics in this volume range widely throughout the European middle ages. Three contributions concern terminology for dress. Two deal with multicultural medieval Apulia: an examination of clothing terms in surviving marriage contracts from the tenth to the fourteenth century, and a close focus on an illuminated document made for a prestigious wedding. Turning to Scandinavia, there is an analysis of clothing materials from Norway and Sweden according to gender and social distribution. Further papers consider the economic uses of cloth and clothing: wool production and the dress of the Cistercian community at Beaulieu Abbey based on its 1269-1270 account book, and the use of clothing as pledge or payment in medieval Ireland. In addition, there is a consideration of the history of dagged clothing and its negative significance to moralists, and of the painted hangings that were common in homes of all classes in the sixteenth century. ROBIN NETHERTON is a professional editor and a researcher/lecturer on the interpretation of medieval European dress; GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Emerita Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at the University of Manchester. Contributors: Antonietta Amati, Eva I. Andersson, John Block Friedman, Susan James, John Oldland, Lucia Sinisi, Mark Zumbuhl
This engaging analysis of Western fashion explores the influence of fashion, taste, and style on people's actions and beliefs since the Middle Ages.
This book explores medieval society's fascination with the cross-dressed woman and examines a wide variety of sources which record attempts to overcome gender hierarchy and illustrate a desire to re-examine social gender identities.