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When it comes to training for climbing, there is an overwhelming amount of information out there. In The Science of Climbing Training, top Spanish climbing coach Sergio Consuegra has analysed our sporting needs from the perspective of exercise and sports science to provide an evidence-based approach to training for climbing. It is designed to help us improve climbing performance, whether we're taking the next step in our training as we work towards a project, or if we're a coach looking to optimise our athletes' training. It doesn't contain any 'magic' training methods, because there are none – although you might be shocked by the science behind some popular methods. The first part explains what training is and how different training methods are governed by the physiological and biomechanical processes that occur in the body. The second part looks at how to improve specific needs (such as finger strength and forearm muscle endurance) and general needs (such as basic physical conditioning, pulling strength, pushing strength, strength training for injury prevention) for the different demands and types of climbing and bouldering. The third and final part suggests the best ways to fit it all together. It looks at adjusting training volume and intensity, and tapering to encourage supercompensation, all to help us achieve improved performance, whether it's a breaking into a higher grade, ticking that long-standing project or climbing a dream route.
Provides trainers and athletes with exercises for improving speed, strength, and power during sport performance, based on best practices in functional training. Describes what functional training is, how to analyze the demands of a specific sport, how to assess the strengths and weaknesses of athletes, how to design a program, and exercises for stretching, and dynamic warm-up; lower body, core, upper body, and pylometric training; Olympic lifting; and performance enhancement programs. This edition updates all information in the original version, Functional Training for Sports, and has new sections on areas like foam rolling and mobility; rewritten chapters to reflect scientific advances, philosophical changes, and additional experience; an updated chapter on core training; and reworked chapters on lower body training. --Publisher's description of the English language edition.
Complex systems in nature are those with many interacting parts, all capable of influencing global system outcomes. There is a growing body of research that has modeled sport performance from a complexity sciences perspective, studying the behavior of individual athletes and sports teams as emergent phenomena which self-organise under interacting constraints. This book is the first to bring together experts studying complex systems in the context of sport from across the world to collate core theoretical ideas, current methodologies and existing data into one comprehensive resource. It offers new methods of analysis for investigating representative complex sport movements and actions at an individual and team level, exploring the application of methodologies from the complexity sciences in the context of sports performance and the organization of sport practice. Complex Systems in Sport is important reading for any advanced student or researcher working in sport and exercise science, sports coaching, kinesiology or human movement.
Developed by the National Strength and Conditioning Association (NSCA) and now in its fourth edition, Essentials of Strength Training and Conditioning is the essential text for strength and conditioning professionals and students. This comprehensive resource, created by 30 expert contributors in the field, explains the key theories, concepts, and scientific principles of strength training and conditioning as well as their direct application to athletic competition and performance. The scope and content of Essentials of Strength Training and Conditioning, Fourth Edition With HKPropel Access, have been updated to convey the knowledge, skills, and abilities required of a strength and conditioning professional and to address the latest information found on the Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist (CSCS) exam. The evidence-based approach and unbeatable accuracy of the text make it the primary resource to rely on for CSCS exam preparation. The text is organized to lead readers from theory to program design and practical strategies for administration and management of strength and conditioning facilities. The fourth edition contains the most current research and applications and several new features: Online videos featuring 21 resistance training exercises demonstrate proper exercise form for classroom and practical use. Updated research—specifically in the areas of high-intensity interval training, overtraining, agility and change of direction, nutrition for health and performance, and periodization—helps readers better understand these popular trends in the industry. A new chapter with instructions and photos presents techniques for exercises using alternative modes and nontraditional implements. Ten additional tests, including those for maximum strength, power, and aerobic capacity, along with new flexibility exercises, resistance training exercises, plyometric exercises, and speed and agility drills help professionals design programs that reflect current guidelines. Key points, chapter objectives, and learning aids including key terms and self-study questions provide a structure to help students and professionals conceptualize the information and reinforce fundamental facts. Application sidebars provide practical application of scientific concepts that can be used by strength and conditioning specialists in real-world settings, making the information immediately relatable and usable. Online learning tools delivered through HKPropel provide students with 11 downloadable lab activities for practice and retention of information. Further, both students and professionals will benefit from the online videos of 21 foundational exercises that provide visual instruction and reinforce proper technique. Essentials of Strength Training and Conditioning, Fourth Edition, provides the most comprehensive information on organization and administration of facilities, testing and evaluation, exercise techniques, training adaptations, program design, and structure and function of body systems. Its scope, precision, and dependability make it the essential preparation text for the CSCS exam as well as a definitive reference for strength and conditioning professionals to consult in their everyday practice. Note: A code for accessing HKPropel is not included with this ebook but may be purchased separately.
This text pairs in-depth explanations of what happens biochemically while athletes perform with practical suggestions for how to actually biochemically monitor athletes yourself.
This book offers an ultimate clinical guide to all the medical issues related to triathlon – a very popular Olympic and international sport, and the most modern of all the endurance activities. Triathletes experience a range of environmental conditions and physiological demands, depending on the race, that must be taken into consideration when preparing for medical assistance. The book addresses in detail the topics of cardiovascular adaptations, overuse injuries, overtraining syndrome, endurance anaemia, nutrition and the physiological aspects associated with the discipline. It provides information on the training and technical aspects of the different distances in triathlon disciplines, with a special focus on safety in open-water swimming. Dedicated chapters also cover issues related to female, young, master and para-triathletes. Combining research perspectives with many years of experience practicing in the field, this book offers sport medicine physicians, orthopedists, physical therapists and coaches a comprehensive guide to the evaluation, treatment and prevention of all the overuse conditions and to improving athletes’ performance.
This second edition of Genetics and Sports expands on topics previously discussed in an attempt to create an integrated and holistic understanding of the field of sports genomics. It is an update on technologies and on the role of genetics in training, performance, injury, and other exercise-related phenotypes. Ethical concerns and the importance of counselling before and after genetic testing are also addressed. It is increasingly important to understand the field of genetics and sports because of the potential to use and misuse information. All exercise scientists, sport and exercise clinicians, athletes, and coaches need to be adequately informed to ensure that genetic information is accurately and properly used. Genetics and Sports is, therefore, highly recommended to all of these groups.
FITNESS TRAINING. This new book presents the continued evolution of functional training. Ten sections present everything a strength coach or personal trainer may need to understand modern training theory. Boyle updates the reader on the current thinking in core training, back pain, and on how the hip musculature works. Further material on cardiovascular training, and what has worked for the athletes training in his facility continues the journey. In the second half of the book, the author discusses training strategies, including exercises equipment and tools in use on the gym floor, how he develops speed, and a section on his single-leg training methods. Finally, he puts the entire package together with program design, covering the basic objectives of a sound program, and showing you exactly which programs to use in a variety of circumstances.