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How do waves break, and what makes good surf? What are dangerous rip currents, and how do you spot one? What should you do if you get caught in one? Australia’s best-known surf scientist, Rob “Dr. Rip” Brander, takes readers on a fascinating and entertaining journey to uncover how beaches form and behave, the science of waves and currents, and how beaches respond to storms and climate change. He explains where the sand we lay our towels on came from, how the tides that wash up new treasures each day work, why no two beaches are exactly the same, and why some of them are disappearing. He also explores some of the hazards to watch out for, from rip currents to tsunamis to the (unlikely) event you find yourself swimming with a shark. Whether you’re a surfer looking for the perfect wave or you just enjoy hitting the beach with friends and family, this book is a must-read for all ocean lovers.
Many of us live near the beach, and many more visit the beach on holidays.
How do waves break and what makes good surf? What are dangerous rip currents and how do you spot one? What would you do if you got caught in one? Australia’s best-known surf scientist, Rob ‘Dr Rip’ Brander, takes you on a fascinating and entertaining journey to uncover how our beaches form and behave, the science of waves and currents, how beaches respond to storms and climate change, as well as some of the hazards to watch out for, from tsunamis to the (unlikely) event you find yourself swimming with a shark. Whether you’re a surfer looking for the perfect wave or enjoying the beach with friends and family, this book is a must-read for all ocean lovers. ‘So good, it should be compulsory reading at school, and in planes flying to Australia.’ — Dr. Karl Kruszelnicki ‘Dr Rip is well-respected by Bondi Lifeguards. His knowledge of how beaches work has helped save many lives.’ — Bruce Hopkins, Chief Lifeguard at Bondi, Bronte and Tamarama beaches and star of Bondi Rescue ‘The beach is a fun but dangerous place. Everyone who loves the surf should read this fantastic book.’ — Mick Fanning, three-time surfing world champion
Surfing.
Take this book to the beach; it will open up a whole new world. Illustrated throughout with color photographs, maps, and graphics, it explores one of the planet’s most dynamic environments—from tourist beaches to Arctic beaches strewn with ice chunks to steaming hot tropical shores. The World’s Beaches tells how beaches work, explains why they vary so much, and shows how dramatic changes can occur on them in a matter of hours. It discusses tides, waves, and wind; the patterns of dunes, washover fans, and wrack lines; and the shape of berms, bars, shell lags, cusps, ripples, and blisters. What is the world’s longest beach? Why do some beaches sing when you walk on them? Why do some have dark rings on their surface and tiny holes scattered far and wide? This fascinating, comprehensive guide also considers the future of beaches, and explains how extensively people have affected them—from coastal engineering to pollution, oil spills, and rising sea levels.
The follow-up to his bestseller The War of Art, Turning Pro navigates the passage from the amateur life to a professional practice. "You don't need to take a course or buy a product. All you have to do is change your mind." --Steven Pressfield TURNING PRO IS FREE, BUT IT'S NOT EASY. When we turn pro, we give up a life that we may have become extremely comfortable with. We give up a self that we have come to identify with and to call our own. TURNING PRO IS FREE, BUT IT DEMANDS SACRIFICE. The passage from amateur to professional is often achieved via an interior odyssey whose trials are survived only at great cost, emotionally, psychologically and spiritually. We pass through a membrane when we turn pro. It's messy and it's scary. We tread in blood when we turn pro. WHAT WE GET WHEN WE TURN PRO. What we get when we turn pro is we find our power. We find our will and our voice and we find our self-respect. We become who we always were but had, until then, been afraid to embrace and live out.
Russell Ord's spectacular images have won him worldwide recognition, and deservedly so. Based in Western Australia, Russell is renowned for his awesome images of super thick empty peaks and heavy sessions at reefs like The Box and The Right. You can pick up any surf magazine in the country and find Russell's work on the front and back covers, and filling out entire spreads and the pages in between. In 'Surfing: Water is Freedom', Russell teams with noted local writer Anthony Pancia to tell the story 'behind the waves', the people who surf them, those who make their livelihoods from them, and who follow the culture with a passion. It is an extraordinary book for the new millennium. And Anthony Pancia's words bring the images to life with wonderful stories of passion and adventure. Russell Ord's photography stands alone. Nobody else in the world swims in the heaviest slab waves in the world, putting life, limb on the line to capture such dramatic & fantastically composed photos
NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER • A stunning “portrait of the enduring grace of friendship” (NPR) about the families we are born into, and those that we make for ourselves. A masterful depiction of love in the twenty-first century. NATIONAL BOOK AWARD FINALIST • MAN BOOKER PRIZE FINALIST • WINNER OF THE KIRKUS PRIZE A Little Life follows four college classmates—broke, adrift, and buoyed only by their friendship and ambition—as they move to New York in search of fame and fortune. While their relationships, which are tinged by addiction, success, and pride, deepen over the decades, the men are held together by their devotion to the brilliant, enigmatic Jude, a man scarred by an unspeakable childhood trauma. A hymn to brotherly bonds and a masterful depiction of love in the twenty-first century, Hanya Yanagihara’s stunning novel is about the families we are born into, and those that we make for ourselves. Look for Hanya Yanagihara’s latest bestselling novel, To Paradise.
An anthology of literary pieces and essays on surfing is complemented by classic and modern photographs and artwork and includes Mark Twain's nineteenth-century description in "Roughing It" and Susan Orlean's essay on girl surfers in Maui.
This book provides an overview of beach management tools, including carrying capacity, beach nourishment, environmental and tourism awards (like Blue Flag or others), bathing water quality, zoning, beach typologies, quality index, user's perception, interdisciplinary beach monitoring, coastal legislation, shore protection, social and economic indicators, ecosystem services, and coastal governance (applied in beach case studies). Beaches are one of the most intensely used coastal ecosystems and are responsible for more than half of all global tourism revenues, and as such the book introduces a wide range of state-of-the-art tools that can be used to deal with a variety of beach challenges. Each chapter features specific types of tools that can be applied to advantage in beach management practices. With examples of local and regional case studies from around the globe, this is a valuable resource for anyone involved in beach management.