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This is the first publication on the American modernist photographer Curtis Moffat (1887-1949), who is known for his dynamic abstract photographs, innovative color still lifes and some of the most glamorous society portraits of the early 20th century. He was also a pivotal figure in modernist interior design and furniture. Living in London throughout the 1920s and early 1930s, in the era of the Bright Young Things, Moffat produced stylish photographic portraits of leading figures in high society, theatre and the arts, including Cecil Beaton, the Sitwells, Nancy Cunard, Lady Diana Cooper, Tallulah Bankhead and Daphne du Maurier. In 2003 and 2007, Moffat's daughter, Penelope Smail, generously donated her father's extensive archive to the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. This book is drawn from that archive and includes, in addition, digital reconstructions of color images from original tri-carbro process black-and-white negatives. It reveals Moffat's pioneering but hitherto little-known photography in all its depth and beauty.
This volume analyzes how six protagonists of culture, between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, built their media image by exploiting the innovations brought about by the invention of photography. By exalting the cult of personality, eccentric narcissism and the nascent mass communication, they made the photographic portrait the tool through which they could become celebrities and, at the same time, found fashion and clothing styles that are still of reference today. From De Mérode’s stereotype of beauty to Baudelaire’s total black dandyism, and from Schwarzenbach’s lesbian-chic style to Nijinsky’s eroticizing exoticism, the book provides detailed insights into the life and work of various protagonists, always keeping in the background the cultural and artistic context of European Modernism. It will particularly appeal to scholars and students of contemporary art, the history of photography, fashion studies and mass communications.