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Yohji Yamamoto is a man who understands the power of endurance. The product of a Japanese culture ravaged by war, the progressive designer has built his 50-some year career on perseverance and a refusal to bend to the will of tradition. From his initial struggles as an emerging designer to his incendiary debut on the world stage, all the way through to the near collapse of his company in the wake of the global financial crisis, Yamamoto has overcome every obstacle in his path - and always on his own terms. Today, his eponymous brand offering both men's and women's clothing remains his most commercially successful venture alongside the popular sub-label Y's and youth line Ground Y to its' principal lines Pour Homme and Costume D'Homme. In 2018 the brand evolved yet again expanding into a line of perfume. His innovation has led to groundbreaking collaborations and pop culture moments, working alongside household names of fashion, reinventing icons Like Dr Martins whilst dressing icons of entertainment from Tina Turner to Elton John. Most particularly his trailblazing Y-3 range with street-sports giant Adidas, spurned a new wave of cross-genre collaborations paving the way for the now billion dollar athleisure industry. Raised by his mother, who worked as a dressmaker. Yamamoto found himself identifying more with the women of his life. His compassion for the opposite gender would eventually present itself through the construction of his couture. His collections are built primarily around the comfort and confidence clothing can provide for women, uninterested in presenting them as objects of male desire.
Examines the impact of punk on fashion, focusing on its do-it-yourself, rip-it-to-shreds ethos, the antithesis of couture.
An elegant, large-format homage to the Yamamoto look This volume celebrates the creative power and style of the great Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto. Shot in sensuous black and white, primarily in Tokyo, these previously unpublished images--by photographer Takay--respond to the iconic black designs and silhouettes of Yamamoto's clothing, featuring some of Japan's most accomplished actors, musicians and models, such as stage director Yukio Ninagawa, photographer Daido Moriyama, actress Rie Miyazawa, media artist Yoichi Ochiai and musician Char. The locations hark back to Japan of the 1980s, the end of the Showa era. The seed for this book was planted many years ago, at the start of Takay's career, when he worked on a Yamamoto project, and came to fruition after he was offered the use of the Yamamoto archive, which spans 40 years of designs. For Takay, Yohji Yamamoto's work exemplifies a strong, avant-garde, masculine style, mixed with a keen Japanese sensibility and elegance. Takay (born 1973) is a Japanese photographer based in New York, whose photographs have been featured in major fashion publications such as Harper's Bazaar, Vogue, L'Uomo Vogue and I-D, as well as in global advertising campaigns. His work has appeared in the Victoria & Albert Museum's exhibition Men in Skirts, which traveled to the Metropolitan Museum in 2003; the Couture Chanel exhibition at the National Museum of China in Beijing; and the Met's Spring 2013 Costume Institute exhibition Punk: Chaos to Couture. In 2016 Takay published the monograph Echos.
MASTER OF FASHION Vol 39 RENEGADESBy Charlie O'BrienFeaturing,-Alexander McQueen -Yohji Yamamoto-Rei Kawakubo-Issey Miyake, -Kenzo -Malcolm McClaren -Vivienne Westwood -Jeremy Scott -Rick Owens -Hedi Slimane -John Galliano Without the designers mentioned in this book, fashion would have ultimately stagnated decades ago. Renegades, no matter their talent, perspective, or unique way of life, are those who refuse to be content with the confines of the box society deems appropriate for all. They are the dreamers, the rebels, the auteurs, without which culture would have never flourished. They push the boundaries of the box - sometimes escaping it entirely - in order to push what human beings are capable of in unique and sometimes astounding directions. In the case of broader society, renegades are men and women who revolutionised politics, science, philosophy and social values by breaking free of the status quo and enlightening others to do the same. They have protested on behalf of millions of oppressed people; created the ideas that gave birth to democracy; and revolutionised the world by refusing to accept the established order of science in favour of bold - and ultimately correct - new leaps. There is danger in acting as a renegade, to refuse the accepted rhetoric of the larger rabble in pursuit of one's own ideals, but when renegades are capable of engaging with the wider public they can inspire society to new awakenings - and once their ideas take hold in society, there can be no going back. These fashion renegades helped shape the course of human history and popular culture.Fashion Industry Broadcast's "MASTERS OF FASHION" is a series:Masters of Fashion - Vol 31 AmericansMasters of Fashion - Vol 32 AmericansMasters of Fashion - Vol 33 ItaliansMasters of Fashion - Vol 34 ItaliansMasters of Fashion - Vol 35 Heels Part 1Masters of Fashion - Vol 35 Heels Part 2Masters of Fashion - Vol 36 BagsMasters of Fashion - Vol 37 Paris Part 1 Masters of Fashion - Vol 38 Paris Part 2 Masters of Fashion - Vol 39 Lingerie Masters of Fashion - Vol 40 RenegadesFashion Industry Broadcast is a leading global publisher of lifestyle titles, this multi edition set has been created as a hard cover colour coffee table books, e-books for $19 from Amazon Kindle, Barnes and Noble Nook, Apple iBook's, Google books, Stanza and Kobo, Apps for mobile devices and a TV documentary series is also in the works.
This book offers a unique opportunity to discover Yamamoto's philosophy as a man as well as a fashion designer, illustrating points in his life by means of story, verse and his own sketches. It includes a philosophical essay, exploring the 'Japanese elements in Yohji Yamamoto'.
The old guard of fashion despised her; the critics never understood her. But for Rei Kawakubo, founder of the renowned fashion label Comme Des Garcons, that was always the point. For the more polarising a collection was, the more success it accrued. Kawakubo eschewed conventional standards of beauty, ushering in a new era of anti-fashion; a deconstructed wonderland of noir, capable of creating strong, provocative pieces for women with a defiant desire to dress in a way that reflected their own unique sensibilities. Kawakubo was born in Tokyo in 1942, the eldest of three siblings and sole daughter of the family. Her father was an administrator at Keio University; her mother, a trained English teacher whom remained at home to raise the family. Though she insisted her home life was comfortable, even ordinary, Kawakubo came from a family of divorce - a rarity in Japanese culture at the time. Her mother had wished to enter the workforce when her children came of age; her father, however, expressly forbade it. In most Japanese households during that time and of their social standing, this would have been the end of discussion: the patriarchal law meant his word was final. But the Kawakubo's were no ordinary family - their mother insisted on a divorce, leaving her husband to fulfill her dream of becoming a high school teacher. It was an act that instilled a sense of defiance in her young daughter, teaching the values of independence and determination, a defining moment that Kawakubo would look to for resolve over the course of her life. In 1960, Kawakubo attended her father's university and undertook a degree in "the history of aesthetics," a course that considered both Eastern and Western culture and art. When she graduated in 1964, she left home and without telling her parents, moved into a shared apartment in the seamy Harajuku neighborhood of Tokyo. Kawakubo has always asserted she owns a duality of personality, and her early adult years did much to cultivate this notion: while the bohemian lifestyle of Harajuku spoke to her inherent desire to "break the rules," the other half - gifted through education and the affluent social circles she formed during university - held a deep concern for both "tradition and history."
The History of Fashion Journalism is a uniquely comprehensive study of the development of the industry from its origins to the present day, and including professionals' such as Dylan Jones's vision of the future. Covering everything from early tailor's catalogues through to contemporary publications such as LOVE, together with blogs such as StyleBubble, and countries from France through to the United States, The History of Fashion Journalism explores the origins and influence of such well-known magazines as Nova, Vogue and Glamour. Combining an overview of the key moments in fashion journalism history with close textual analysis, Kate Nelson Best brings to life the evolving face of the fashion media and its relationship with the fashion industry, national politics, consumer culture and gender. This accessible and highly engaging book will be an invaluable resource not only for fashion studies students but also for those in media studies and cultural studies.
"Nick Waplington: Alexander McQueen", Tate Britain exhibition 10 March - 17 May 2015. This major exhibition is the result of a unique collaboration between the artist Nick Waplington (b 1965) and the acclaimed fashion designer Alexander McQueen (1969-2010). In 2009, Waplington was given unprecedented access to McQueen's idiosyncratic creative journey as he prepared his final Autumn/Winter collection, Horn of Plenty. McQueen conceived the Horn of Plenty collection as an iconoclastic retrospective of his career in fashion, reusing silhouettes and fabrics from his earlier collections, and creating a catwalk set out of discarded elements from the sets of his past shows. Their collaboration reveals a raw side of the fashion world, juxtaposing Waplington's candid images of McQueen's intense and theatrical working process with rigorously produced photographs of recycling plants and landfills, creating a powerful commentary on destruction and creative renewal".--Tate website.
This collection, written by leading Lacanian psychoanalytic theorists and practitioners, explores the impact of shifts in contemporary culture, politics and society on the notion of ‘perversion’, which has undergone numerous profound changes in recent years. The book explores a wide range of issues, from changes in the psychoanalytic clinic, to transformations in the relationship between ‘transgression’ and the law; from the epistemic and diagnostic status of ‘perversion’ as a term, to the perverse turn in contemporary politics; from representations of perversion in cultural productions, to the interpretation of perverse cultural practices. Topical and controversial, academics and students of psychoanalysis, critical and cultural theory, and media studies will find this collection invaluable. In providing cutting edge theoretical debate, the book will also be attractive to practising and training psychoanalysts and psychoanalytic psychotherapists. /div