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Hydrographic Office Publication, No. 609.
This is a reprint of an excellent 1947 U. S. Naval Hydrographic Office publication on wind, waves, breakers and surf. Chapters include: The Physical Nature of Wind Waves, The Dimensions of Waves, The Contours of Waves (effects of currents, shoals, measurement), Seas and Swells, The Frequency of High
In this classic study, a renowned student of ocean wave theory examines the data requirements and details of the power spectral analysis required to make the wave revolution intelligible. Although the discussions center on waves, once the techniques are understood, they can be applied to many other areas. After outlining the nature of waves and wave processes and their methods of measurement and classification, the author provides a detailed exploration that relies heavily on mathematical models. Topics include perturbations of irrotational motion, energy considerations, wave generations by wind, and much more. The text is enhanced and clarified by 270 photos, figures, and tables. A helpful bibliography and indexes conclude this indispensable addition to the oceanographer's library.