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The height of wave generated by displacement type wave generators in shallow water is approximately equal to 2piS/L times an appropriate dimension of the wave generator. S is the stroke of the wave generator, L is the wave length given by the small-amplitude theory, and the wave generator dimension is measured perpendicular to S. This relation agrees with the hydrodynamic theory for piston and flap-type wave generators over the range of relative depths usually used in coastal energineering experiments, and it agrees with data from four piston-type and two plunger-type wave generators for depths satisfhing the condition (2pid/L)
Laboratory physical models are a valuable tool for coastal engineers. Physical models help us to understand the complex hydrodynamic processes occurring in the nearshore zone and they provide reliable and economic engineering design solutions.This book is about the art and science of physical modeling as applied in coastal engineering. The aim of the book is to consolidate and synthesize into a single text much of the knowledge about physical modeling that has been developed worldwide.This book was written to serve as a graduate-level text for a course in physical modeling or as a reference text for engineers and researchers engaged in physical modeling and laboratory experimentation. The first three chapters serve as an introduction to similitude and physical models, covering topics such as advantages and disadvantages of physical models, systems of units, dimensional analysis, types of similitude and various hydraulic similitude criteria applicable to coastal engineering models.Practical application of similitude principles to coastal engineering studies is covered in Chapter 4 (Hydrodynamic Models), Chapter 5 (Coastal Structure Models) and Chapter 6 (Sediment Transport Models). These chapters develop the appropriate similitude criteria, discuss inherent laboratory and scale effects and overview the technical literature pertaining to these types of models. The final two chapters focus on the related subjects of laboratory wave generation (Chapter 7) and measurement and analysis techniques (Chapter 8).
Intended for coastal engineers and marine scientists who desire to develop a fundamental physical understanding of ocean waves and be able to apply this knowledge to ocean and coastal analysis and design. Provides an introduction to the physical processes of ocean wave mechanics, an understanding of the basic techniques for wave analysis, techniques for practical calculation and prediction of waves and applied wave forecasting.