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While investigating the Tsunami wave project, a numerical method was devised to solve the initial boundary value problem for the equations of the non-linear shallow water theory. The case of one horizontal dimension was considered in a domain bounded by a shore at one end, with the motion of the shoreline taken into account. In addition, this method enabled the incident wave to be introduced at the seaward end of the domain. The water was assumed to be at rest in the domain until the incident wave arrived, and the bottom was assumed to slope uniformly. (Author).
A textbook that offers a unified treatment of the applications of hydrodynamics to marine problems. The applications of hydrodynamics to naval architecture and marine engineering expanded dramatically in the 1960s and 1970s. This classic textbook, originally published in 1977, filled the need for a single volume on the applications of hydrodynamics to marine problems. The book is solidly based on fundamentals, but it also guides the student to an understanding of engineering applications through its consideration of realistic configurations. The book takes a balanced approach between theory and empirics, providing the necessary theoretical background for an intelligent evaluation and application of empirical procedures. It also serves as an introduction to more specialized research methods. It unifies the seemingly diverse problems of marine hydrodynamics by examining them not as separate problems but as related applications of the general field of hydrodynamics. The book evolved from a first-year graduate course in MIT's Department of Ocean Engineering. A knowledge of advanced calculus is assumed. Students will find a previous introductory course in fluid dynamics helpful, but the book presents the necessary fundamentals in a self-contained manner. The 40th anniversary of this pioneering book offers a foreword by John Grue. Contents Model Testing • The Motion of a Viscous Fluid • The Motion of an Ideal Fluid • Lifting Surfaces • Waves and Wave Effects • Hydrodynamics of Slender Bodies
The motion of water on a uniformly sloping beach, just after a bore reaches the shore, is studied. The shllow-water equations are used to fomulate a singular hyperbolic problem, which is solved by the help of RIEMANN'S Method and of the trutural theory of quasilinear hyperbolic equations developed in gas dynmics. The shore line is found to advance suddenly with non-zero velocity and then to move up and down the beach with constant, negative acceleration. The solution s shown to contain limit lines indiating a rather unexpeted, secondary bore in the back-wsh. (Author).
Intended for coastal engineers and marine scientists who desire to develop a fundamental physical understanding of ocean waves and be able to apply this knowledge to ocean and coastal analysis and design. Provides an introduction to the physical processes of ocean wave mechanics, an understanding of the basic techniques for wave analysis, techniques for practical calculation and prediction of waves and applied wave forecasting.
Modelling large-scale wave fields and their interaction with coastal and offshore structures has become much more feasible over the last two decades with increases in computer speeds. Wave modelling can be viewed as an extension of wave theory, a mature and widely published field, applied to practical engineering through the use of computer tools.
Since September 1992, there has been an unprecedented number of major tsunami events. Chronologically, the ten sites were: Nicaragua, in September 1992; Flores, Indonesia, in December 1992; Okushiri, Japan, in July 1993; East Java, Indonesia, in June 1994; Shikotan, Russia, in October 1994; Mindoro, Philippines, in November 1994; Skagway, Alaska, in November 1994; East Timor, Indonesia, in May 1995; Irian Jaya, Indonesia, in February 1996; Chimbote, Peru, in February 1996. These tsunamis caused substantial damage and many casualties. Now is the time to review this extraordinary phenomenon so as to prepare for forthcoming tsunami events.The purpose of this book is to review and update our knowledge of long-wave runups and our recent experience in field surveys of tsunami runups. Comparisons of numerical, analytical, and physical prediction models are made using existing laboratory and field data. Also presented are state-of-the-art tsunami prediction models and detailed discussions on tsunami runup phenomena.
This book discusses the numerical simulation of water waves, which combines mathematical theories and modern techniques of numerical simulation to solve the problems associated with waves in coastal, ocean, and environmental engineering. Bridging the gap between practical mathematics and engineering, the book describes wave mechanics, establishment of mathematical wave models, modern numerical simulation techniques, and applications of numerical models in engineering. It also explores environmental issues related to water waves in coastal regions, such as pollutant and sediment transport, and introduces numerical wave flumes and wave basins. The material is self-contained, with numerous illustrations and tables, and most of the mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text. The book is intended for researchers, graduate students and engineers in the fields of hydraulic, coastal, ocean and environmental engineering with a background in fluid mechanics and numerical simulation methods.