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This timely book focuses on the upgrading of firms within the global garment industry, examining how garment manufacturers and retailers in different countries internationalize, develop their capabilities and enhance their sustainability. It highlights the important role the global garments industry plays in the socio-economic development and environmental outcomes of emerging economies.
The widespread prevalence of economically, socially, and environmentally unsustainable practices in global value chains is a pressing international challenge. The way to improve systems and practices in the complex networks that characterize contemporary production processes is not clear cut. Finding solutions requires innovation. This Element examines the structures of garment value chains and explores how innovation related to sustainability is taking place in these chains. Furthermore, it identifies barriers and opportunities for innovations to break through and stimulate industry-wide change.
Advances in technology, combined with the ever-evolving needs of the global market, are having a strong impact on the textile and clothing sector. The global textile and clothing industry: Technological advances and future challenges provides an essential review of these changes, and considers their implications for future strategies concerning production and marketing of textile products.Beginning with a review of trends in the global textile industry, the book goes on to consider the impact of environmental regulation on future textile products and processes. Following this, the importance of innovation-driven textile research and development, and the role of strategic technology roadmapping are highlighted. Both the present structure and future adaptation of higher education courses in textile science are reviewed, before recent advances in textile manufacturing technology, including joining techniques, 3D body scanning and garment design and explored in depth. Finally, The global textile and clothing industry concludes by considering automating textile preforming technology for the mass production of fibre-reinforced polymer (FRP) composites.With its distinguished editor and international team of expert contributors, The global textile and clothing industry: Technological advances and future challenges is an essential guide to key challenges and developments in this industrial sector. Comprehensively examines the implications of technological advancements and the evolving needs of the global market on the textile and clothing industry and considers their role on the future of textile manufacturing The importance of innovation-driven textile research and development and the role of strategic technology roadmapping are thoroughly investigated Recent advances in textile manufacturing technology, including joining techniques, 3D body scanning and garment design and explored in depth
The conditions under which social upgrading, i.e., the process of improvements in the rights and entitlements of workers as social actors by enhancing the quality of their employment, takes place in global production networks [GPNs] have not been sufficiently explored. This research addresses the following research questions: how is social upgrading defined? Under which conditions does social upgrading occur? How does economic upgrading influence social upgrading? How does the local and global social and institutional context influence social upgrading opportunities? First, the thesis establishes a definition and categorisation of social upgrading. Then, it answers these questions by analysing the empirical case study of the garment industry in Morocco. The analysis of key informant interviews, semi-structured interviews with factory managers and focus group discussions with workers shows that participation in GPNs can deliver opportunities as well as challenges for developing country workers. The main argument and contribution of the thesis to the existing literature is that the attainment of social upgrading is hindered by the tension existing between commercial embeddedness and social embeddedness of GPNs. All actors in GPNs find themselves caught in between commercial dynamics and the subsequent need for competitiveness, and the need of considering workers as social agents with rights. In particular, supplier firms in developing countries have to respond to international buyers' pressures to lower costs, increase quality and productivity, as well as deliver products on short notice and with great flexibility. At the same time, they have to comply to labour standards set by national and international regulations and by private buyers' codes of conduct. These pressures are contradictory and create a critical dilemma for suppliers. Struggling to reconcile buyers' requirements and faced with this tension, they attempt to mitigate it by employing two types of workers: regular workers who guarantee high quality and continuity, and are the recipient of social upgrading; and irregular workers, who ensure low costs and a high degree of flexibility, and are largely excluded from social upgrading opportunities and are often socially downgraded. Therefore, participation in GPNs delivers a mix of social upgrading and downgrading depending on the type of worker under consideration.
This book investigates how global value chain governance, public institutions and strategies in the area of industrial policy and industrial relations by stakeholders such as national or global trade unions, governments, companies or international NGOs shape upgrading in the Global South. A special feature is its interdisciplinarity, combining sociological, economic, legal and political dimensions. Case studies systematically compare different industry trajectories. Furthermore, it encompasses far-reaching insights into the role of global value chains for development, economic catching-up of countries and socio-political aspects such as working conditions and interest representation.
Globalization of production has created opportunities and challenges for developing country producers and workers. This volume provides solutions-oriented approaches for promoting improved working conditions and labour rights in the apparel industry.
The end of the MFA was followed by rising apparel exports, falling prices, and a reallocation of production and employment between countries. There were also significant changes within countries. The first main finding of this report is that export and employment patterns after the MFA/ATC did not necessarily match predictions. While many predicted that production would shift to low-wage countries, this book shows that only 13 percent of variation in export changes post-MFA can be explained by the differences in wage levels. Second, changes in exports are usually, but not always, good indicators of what happens to wages and employment within countries. This is especially important for policy because it shows that simply using exports as a metric of 'success' in terms of helping the poor is not sufficient. Third, the Book identifies the specific ways that changes in the global apparel market affected earnings. The Book shows that wage premiums change in predictable ways: rising (in most cases) in countries that were proactive in adapting to the MFA phase-out and expanded their market shares, and falling in countries that failed to respond in a timely fashion to the changing environment. The Book shows that promoting 'upgrading' (defined as shifting to higher-value goods, shifting up the value chain, or 'modernizing' production techniques) seems to be necessary for sustainable competitiveness in the apparel sector but does not necessarily help the poor. Policies that support upgrading need to be complemented with targeted workforce development to make sure that the most vulnerable workers are not left behind. Having a vision for the evolution of the apparel sector that incorporates developing worker skills seems crucial. Otherwise, less-skilled workers could miss out on opportunities to gain valuable work experience in manufacturing.
This book analyzes the choices and constraints of management within the Bangladesh garment industry and how management negotiates these challenges to ensure the global garment supply chain is sustainable. Exploring the international South Asian garment industry and using middle management and the owners of Bangladeshi factories as a case study, the book assesses the limits and costs of globalization for Bangladesh, and outlines the challenges of the fast-fashion business model for the global market. It focusses on the changing dynamics of the entrepreneur class, how they manage factories and their experiences with Accord-Alliance, and the challenges of sustainability. Within these four broader themes, the author critically examines management strategies towards compliance and labour productivity, transnational governance, buyer–supplier relationships, and power dynamics. This book is the first to explore management’s perceptions of workers, buyers, and government through an analysis of four factories which demonstrate the role of mid-level management, how supervisors treat production workers, workers’ impact on innovation, welfare programmes as well as CSR policies, and the impact of COVID-19. Offering new perspectives on Bangladesh’s garment export industry, this book will be of interest to researchers in the field of policy studies, labour studies, South and South-East Asian studies, development studies, international trade, and political science.
Threads of Labour presents new empirical research by a network of garment workers' support organizations and makes sense of global supply chains from the bottom up. Presents new empirical research by a network of garment workers' support organizations in ten different locations in Asia, Europe and Mexico. Creates a blueprint for conducting worker-orientated action research in order to better understand and resist the negative impact of globalization on labour. Ensures that workers' voices reach those who are already trying to reconfigure global capitalism in more humane directions. Explores the ways in which workers might begin to develop new forms of organization that are more suited to securing gains in the global garment industry. Bridges the gap between activist and academic research, improving the conversation between these two groups.