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First Published in 1990 Unpacking the Fashion Industry spotlights a side of the industry the consumer never sees. What is the fashion clothing industry really like? What lies behind the glamour of the cat-walks and the glossy magazines? Annie Phizacklea focuses on the small firm sector of fashionwear production, based predominantly on ethnic entrepreneurship and cheap female labour and analyses the complex interaction of gender, class and racism in this sector of the industry. This book is a must read for scholars and researchers of sociology, gender studies and social anthropology.
The story of urban growth, the politics of labour, and the relationships among the many immigrant groups who have come to work on the sewing machines of the women's garment industry over the last century. This book is of interest to a range of scholars, including those engaged in labour, immigrant, and women's history.
For more than a century and a half--from the middle of the 19th century to the end of the 20th--the garment industry was the largest manufacturing industry in New York City, and New York made more clothes than anywhere else. For generations, the industry employed more New Yorkers than any other and was central to the city's history, culture, and identity. Today, although no longer the big heart of industrial New York, the needle trades are still an important part of the city's economy--especially for the new waves of immigrants who cut, sew, and assemble clothing in shops around the five boroughs. In this valuable book, historians, sociologists, and economists explore the rise and fall of the garment industry and its impact on New York and its people, as part of a global process of economic change. Essays trace the rise of the industry, from the creation of a Manhattan garment district employing immigrants from nearby enements to the contemporary spread of Chinese-owned shops in cheaper neighborhoods. The tumultuous history of workers and their bosses is the focus of chapters on contractors and labor militants and on the experiences of Italian, Chinese, Jewish, Dominican, and other ethnic workers. The final chapter looks at air labor, social responsibility, and the political economy of the offshore garment industry.
This book tells the story of fashion workers engaged in the labor of design and the material making of New York fashion. Christina H. Moon offers an illuminating ethnography into the various sites and practices that make up fashion labor in sample rooms, design studios, runways, factories, and design schools of the New York fashion world. By exploring the work practices, social worlds, and aspirations of fashion workers, this book offers a unique look into the meaning of labor and creativity in 21st century global fashion. This book will be of interest to scholars in design studies, fashion history, and fashion labor.
"Making Midtown: A Vision for a 21st Century Garment District in New York City provides a roadmap for revitalizing the Garment District with fashion design and manufacturing at its core. The recommendations outlined in this publication also establish a model for New York and other cities to create a new kind of urban creative district -- one that leverages, rather than replaces, a given neighborhood's existing resources to create real estate value, support jobs, and capture a distinct neighborhood identity and character. This publication synthesizes more than three years of work which documented the Garment District's built environment, real estate dynamics, and fashion industry activities: engaged scores of Garment District stakeholders to identify priorities and build consensus around shared goals; and developed a new model for integrating manufacturing into a densely developed, mixed-use creative district. The team of Design Trust Project Fellows - including architects, urban designers and economic development consultants - developed the final recommendations in three key areas: 1. Promote locally designed and produced clothes 2. Improve the Garment District's public realm 3. Sustain a diverse mix of uses in the District, including garment district manufacturing." -- Publisher's website.