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Wiener Werkstätte: Textiles and their design This book presents new research and archival findings on the textile and fashion designs of the Wiener Werkstätte movement (1903–1932). Textile specialists, art and design historians offer insights into the most important collections and archives in Austria, Switzerland, and the US. The publication explores works by lesser-known female textile artists; the influence of Eastern European folk art, Japanese patterns, and ornamentation textbooks on textile designs; applications in fashion, interior design, film, theater; and marketing strategies used to enter new markets in the US. It includes numerous illustrations of textile samples, many drawn from the Cotsen Textile Traces Study Collection (George Washington University Museum / Textile Museum), one of the largest collections of Wiener Werkstätte fabrics in the US. New research and archival findings on the Wiener Werkstätte textile design International project by the University of Neuchâtel, the George Washington University Museum / Textile Museum (exhibition from July 8 to November 5, 2023), and the University of Applied Arts Vienna Contributions by Susan Brown / Caitlin Condell, Rebecca Houze, Janis Staggs, and others
Czech-born Jacqueline Groag (1903-1985) was an incredibly adept textile designer who trained at the Kunstgewerbeschule in Vienna during the 1920s under Franz Cisek and Josef Hoffmann. She produced textile designs for the Wiener Werkstatte and some of the Parisian fashion houses while she lived in Vienna. She married the architect and interior designer Jacques Groag - they made a successful team. However, in 1939 they were compelled to emigrate to the UK. Jacqueline Groag continued to produce textile design work for the British market, and after the war her designs could be seen at numerous outlets such as David Whitehead, Grafton, John Lewis and Liberty. For more than 20 years she worked as a freelance designer, supplying designs for carpets, greetings cards, laminates, plastics, textiles, wallpapers and wrapping papers to many firms including Bond-Worth Carpets, British European Airways, the British Overseas Airways Corporation, Dunlop, ICI and London Transport. In 1984 she became a Fellow of the Faculty of Royal Designers for Industry. She was a prodigious and successful designer to the end of her life. Along with Lucienne Day and Marian Mahler she is seen as central to a new and exciting development in textile design in the 1950s. Together their work is featured in a major exhibition 'Designing Women' which begins in Colorado Springs in September 2008. This is a ground breaking publication on the work of this highly important and influential designer.
Filling a critical gap in Vienna 1900 studies, this book offers a new reading of fin-de-si?e culture in the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy by looking at the unusual and widespread preoccupation with embroidery, fabrics, clothing, and fashion - both literally and metaphorically. The author resurrects lesser known critics, practitioners, and curators from obscurity, while also discussing the textile interests of better known figures, notably Gottfried Semper and Alois Riegl. Spanning the 50-year life of the Dual Monarchy, this study uncovers new territory in the history of art history, insists on the crucial place of women within modernism, and broadens the cultural history of Habsburg Central Europe by revealing the complex relationships among art history, women, and Austria-Hungary. Rebecca Houze surveys a wide range of materials, from craft and folk art to industrial design, and includes overlooked sources-from fashion magazines to World's Fair maps, from exhibition catalogues to museum lectures, from feminist journals to ethnographic collections. Restoring women to their place at the intersection of intellectual and artistic debates of the time, this book weaves together discourses of the academic, scientific, and commercial design communities with middle-class life as expressed through popular culture.
This work focuses on the efforts toward reforming women's dress that took place in Europe and America in the latter half of the 18th century and the first decade of the 20th century, and the types of garments adopted by women to overcome the challenges posed by fashionable dress. It considers the many advocates for reform and examines their motives, their arguments for change, and how they promoted improvements in women's fashion. Though there was no single overarching dress reform movement, it reveals similarities among the arguments posed by diverse groups of reformers, including especially the equation of reform with an ideal image of improved health. Drawing on a variety of primary and secondary sources in the USA and Europe - including the popular press, advice books for women, allopathic and alternative medical literature, and books on aesthetics, art, health, and physical education - the text makes a significant contribution to costume studies, social history, and women's studies.
Filling a critical gap in Vienna 1900 studies, this book offers a new reading of fin-de-si?e culture in the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy by looking at the unusual and widespread preoccupation with embroidery, fabrics, clothing, and fashion - both literally and metaphorically. The author resurrects lesser known critics, practitioners, and curators from obscurity, while also discussing the textile interests of better known figures, notably Gottfried Semper and Alois Riegl. Spanning the 50-year life of the Dual Monarchy, this study uncovers new territory in the history of art history, insists on the crucial place of women within modernism, and broadens the cultural history of Habsburg Central Europe by revealing the complex relationships among art history, women, and Austria-Hungary. Rebecca Houze surveys a wide range of materials, from craft and folk art to industrial design, and includes overlooked sources-from fashion magazines to World's Fair maps, from exhibition catalogues to museum lectures, from feminist journals to ethnographic collections. Restoring women to their place at the intersection of intellectual and artistic debates of the time, this book weaves together discourses of the academic, scientific, and commercial design communities with middle-class life as expressed through popular culture.
Tracing the career of Koloman Moser, one of the most influential figures in 20th-century design, this stunning book focuses on Moser’s accomplishments in the decorative arts. During his short career, Koloman Moser became a towering figure in Viennese culture. His varied work in interior and graphic design, furniture, textiles, jewelry, metalwork, glass, and earthenware helped usher in the modern era. This book surveys the entirety of Moser’s oeuvre. It examines his work as a graphic designer and his involvement with the Vienna Secession, with special focus given to his role as an illustrator for the journal Ver Sacrum (Sacred Spring). Moser’s forays into textile design and ceramic work are also introduced. The book features his designs for the Vienna Secession, Thonet Brothers, and the Mautner family, among others that characterize his early modern style. The book also explores Moser’s seminal role as a founding member of the Vienna Workshops, along with architect Josef Hoffmann and patron Fritz Waerndorfer. Included are many reproductions of Moser’s masterpieces, including the window of the Steinhof Chapel, his exhibition posters, postage stamps and currency, and elegant examples from his design portfolio, "The Source."
Repeating patterns can soothe or energize us, bringing joy and harmony to everyday life. Repeat Printed Pattern for Interiors explores the power repeat patterns hold over us and what goes into creating original, effective printed designs. Beginning with the history of patterns in interior design, Kate Farley uncovers lessons from the work of Owen Jones, William Morris, Collier Campbell and Josef Frank. There are also interviews with some of the best contemporary pattern designers working today: Angie Lewin, Deborah Bowness, Eley Kishimoto, Emma J. Shipley, Galbraith & Paul, Neisha Crosland, Orla Kiely OBE, Sarah Campbell and Timorous Beasties. Each interview covers the designer's practice and ethos and includes a deconstruction of one design, with discussion of initial sketches, details of design development, manufacturing insights and images of final products. Covering hand-drawn techniques through to digital manipulation, you'll also be guided through the implications of visual language, colour statements, manufacturing considerations and commercial interior contexts to prepare you to jump in and start creating your own unique patterns.