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Offers an intimate look at the surfers who challenge the fifty-foot waves of Maverick's surf point in California--all in search of the perfect ride.
Describes how a young boy discovers a magical mantra while surfing with his father in Hawaii. Explains how unusual coincidences can happen due to Littlewood's theory of large numbers. Explores the science behind probabilities in the context of ocean waves.
This book explores how a young boy and his Dad use a magical mantra to entice the ocean to produce surfable waves in Hawaii. It explores Littlewood's Law of Miracles and the theory of large numbers. Fully illustrated with beautiful pictures throughout.
With its massive faces, punishing rocks, and treacherous currents, Maverick's presents a surfing challenge like no other. Author Matt Warshaw has updated his critically acclaimed illustrated history of Maverick's to cover important recent developments, and we've added a fresh new cover to kick this edition off in style. "A fascinating account," to quote Surfer magazine, it takes "a cue from Sebastian Junger's The Perfect Storm...Warshaw focused on a single event...and expands on it to illuminate an entire culture and its world beyond waves." The event was the death of celebrated surfer Mark Foo, one of those who congregate every winter to test themselves in the dark, foreboding waters. And what unfolds in Maverick's is no less than the story of big-wave surfing, from its ancient Hawaiian origins to modern tow-in riders. It's a book to be enjoyed not only by those who surf deep in the waves, but also by those whose taste for adventure is satisfied deep in the pages of a very good book.
Since their emergence in the 1960s, lifestyle sports (also referred to as action sport, extreme sports, adventure sports) have experienced unprecedented growth both in terms of participation and in their increased visibility across public and private space. book seeks to explore the changing representation and consumption of lifestyle sport in the twenty-first century. The essays, which cover a range of sports, and geographical contexts (including Brazil, Europe, North America and Australasia) focus on three themes. First, essays scrutinise aspects of the commercialisation process and impact of the media, reviewing and reconsidering theoretical frameworks to understand these processes. The scholars here emphasise the need to move beyond simplistic understandings of commercialisation as co-option and resistance, to capture the complexity and messiness of the process, and of the relationships between the cultural industries, participants and consumers. The second theme examines gender identity and representations, exploring the potential of lifestyle sport to be a politically transformative space in relation to gender, sexuality and ‘race’. The last theme explores new theoretical directions in research on lifestyle sport, including insights from philosophy, sociology and cultural geography. The themes the monograph addresses are wide reaching, and centrally concerned with the changing meaning of sport and sporting identity in the twenty-first century. This book was previously published as a Special Issue of Sport in Society.
The story of a legendary sporting rivalry chronicles the bitter feud between legendary surfers Ken Bradshaw and Mark Foo, two men whose different approaches to the sport led to a decade-long conflict that would end with Foo's death in a tragic surfing accident in 1994.
Ten Thousand waves is a true story of a surfer who finds spirituality within the passions he has pursued. The book is a east meets west adventure story where the author found his own path by bringing together meditation, prayer, love and appreciation. Giving explanations by using stories from throughout his life.
An exploration of how extreme athletes break the limits of ultimate human performance and what we can learn from their mastery of the state of consciousness known as "flow" In this groundbreaking book, New York Times-bestselling author Steven Kotler decodes the mystery of ultimate human performance. Drawing on over a decade of research and first-hand interviews with dozens of top action and adventure sports athletes such as big-wave legend Laird Hamilton, big-mountain snowboarder Jeremy Jones, and skateboarding pioneer Danny Way, Kotler explores the frontier science of "flow," an optimal state of consciousness where we perform and feel our best. Building a bridge between the extreme and the mainstream, The Rise of Superman explains how these athletes are using flow to do the impossible and how we can use this information to radically accelerate our performance in our own lives. At its core, this is a book about profound possibility, what is actually possible for our species, and where--if anywhere--our limits lie.
A riveting and rollicking tour-de-force about the terrifying power of nature's most deadly phenomena — colossal waves — and the scientists and super surfers who are obsessed with them. The New York Times bestselling author of The Devil's Teeth probes the dramatic convergence of baffling gargantuan waves that pummel oil rigs and sink massive ships, the extreme surfers willing to stare down death in order to ride them, and the marine scientists trying to unlock the physics of these waves, the climate changes that are provoking them, and what chaos they might wreak. Susan Casey explores the phenomenon of monster waves and how they have become an obsession for extreme surfers like Laird Hamilton — who serves as the author's guide as she takes the reader into the intense, white-knuckle world of 100-foot waves.
"He was wet, he was barely alive...and he couldn't remember a thing! Then he opened his eyes to find himself lying on a beach, staring at a beautiful, voluptuous woman who said her name was Cherish Love. If he hadn't been scared to death he'd have laughed...then he'd have made a pass at her! At first, Cherish couldn't believe her eyes...lying on the shore was a handsome, half-naked man. He was carrying a stuffed pink bunny rabbit and the engraving on his watch said his name was "Ziggy." But how had he gotten there? And why was he having terrible nightmares? And what would happen when he got his memory back?"--Back cover.