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- Explores the history of chain-stitch embroidery in India and the stitch-craft of the Mochi or shoemaker community in Gujarat - Documents the previously unknown role of the women of the Mochi community in creating embroidery pieces - Features a catalog of exquisite embroidery pieces from the TAPI Collection - a visual treat for lovers of Indian embroidery and handcrafted textiles The exquisite chain-stitch embroideries of Gujarat's Mochi community are found in museum and private collections the world over, but the origins of the Mochis and their craftsmanship are rarely explored. This book is the first to delve deeply into the history of chain-stitch embroidery in India and its connections to the Mochi or shoe-maker community. This work focusses on chain-stitch embroideries from the 18th to 20th centuries in the renowned TAPI collection of textiles, with many pieces having direct links both to Gujarati royal families and the lineage of Mochi craftsmen and women. The previously unknown but significant role of the women of the Mochi community in creating embroidery pieces is also explored. The catalogue of images displays a wide range of exquisitely embroidered pieces ranging from Jain manuscript covers to portraits, items of clothing, fans, and furnishings, such as floor spreads, wall hangings and tent panels. The accompanying essays provide the background history of the Mochis and their work and also shed fresh light on chain-stitch embroideries in museums and private collections previously thought to be from the Mughal period. The book also gives an account of the contemporary scene, in which chain-stitch embroidery has found new directions and audiences worldwide.
This fascinating book explores the life of a colonial shoemaker and his importance to the community, as well as everyday life, responsibilities, and social practices during that time.
Shoemaker returns us to a world where most goods were made by hand with time-honored traditional techniques. The text covers everything from preparing threads and making and using shoemakers' wax to the stitch-by-stitch use of the awl and the proper making of the inseam. Garsault's 1767 copperplate images, pictures from contemporaneous sources, and modern photographs of hitherto unpublished eighteenth-century tools and artifacts illustrate this edition." "Also in this book are a facsimile of the 1767 French text, translations of other eighteenth-century writings about shoemaking, a glossary of eighteenth-century shoemaking terms, and suggestions for further reading." --Book Jacket.
Making Capitalism in China: The Taiwan Connection shows that small- and medium-sized Taiwanese investors are organized in production and marketing networks, not vertically integrated conglomerates. When in China they directly negotiate and establish partnerships with entrepreneurial local officials, not the central bureaucracy. Also, they effectively transfer a capitalist ideology of production to Chinese factory workers. Importantly, the investors attribute their business successes in China to the cultural, historical, and linguistic affinities they share with these local agents. Connections regarding socio-cultural identity do more than facilitate business dealings or ease labor relations; Hsing asserts that partnerships between mainland settlements and overseas Chinese investors constitute a local-global coalition of economic reform, one that strengthens local autonomy in China and bypasses the control of the central government. This coalition is nothing short of a new pattern of foreign direct investment, one profoundly influenced by both cultural boundaries (usually deemed insignificant in matters of capital flow and globalization) and local state agents (who operate in this case as crucial business partners). A notable work that will appeal to all students of East Asian economic organization, ethnic business networks, international investment, and the political economy of socialist transition. Hsing's book is based on hundreds of interviews and participatory observations that she conducted between 1991 and 1996 with investors, local officials, and factory workers in Taiwan, Hong Kong, Guangdong, Fujian, and Shanghai.
In 1800, shoes in the United States were made by craftsmen, each trained to create an entire shoe. A century later, shoes were mass-produced in factories employing dozens of machines and specialized workers. Ross Thomson describes this transition from craft to mechanized production in one of the largest American industries of the nineteenth century. Early shoe machinery originated through innovations made by shoemakers, tailors, and especially machinists. It continued to evolve through a process of "learning by selling," in which sales of one generation of machines led to technological learning and ongoing invention by those who used, serviced, and sold them. As a result of this process, the mechanization of the shoe industry and the manufacturers of the machinery it used -- including such firms as Singer and United Shoe Machinery -- evolved together. In researching the process of industrialization, Thomson examined nearly 8,000 patents. Comparing the patent information with directories for more than eighty American cities, he was able to find out who the inventors were, who employed them, how many patents they held, and the extent to which their inventions were used. Originally published in 1989. A UNC Press Enduring Edition -- UNC Press Enduring Editions use the latest in digital technology to make available again books from our distinguished backlist that were previously out of print. These editions are published unaltered from the original, and are presented in affordable paperback formats, bringing readers both historical and cultural value.