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"[Book] examines the relationship between high fashion and the evolving ideals of beauty through the careers and personifications of iconic models who posed in the salons, walked the runways, and exploded onto the pages of Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and even Life and Time. High-profile models enlivened the designs of the world's most celebrated couturiers and, on occasion, even inspired them." --Book jacket.
This thesis is about The Model as Muse: Embodying Fashion, a 2009 exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute. It begins with an introduction of literature relevant to the display of fashion and fashion photography in the museum space as well as notions of highbrow, middlebrow, lowbrow, and Nobrow. It continues with an exploration of fashion's and fashion photography's historical and contemporary associations with The Metropolitan Museum of Art and other museums, a review of the critical responses to early fashion and fashion photography exhibitions, and an examination of how fashion and fashion photography are consistent with John Seabrook's concept of Nobrow. It then surveys The Model as Muse exhibition, using it to give a brief history of fashion photography and to give a critique of the exhibition by examining issues relevant to it. Next, it addresses issues of gender as they are related to the Supermodel and society. It concludes with an examination of the changing concept of the muse throughout history and its culmination in the model, an examination of the three waves of feminism, and an analysis of the Supermodel's position in society and the attitudes people have toward her.
This splendid book examines the legacy of Gabrielle "Coco” Chanel, one of the twentieth century's great icons of style. While Chanel mythologized her glamorous life through relentless self-invention, the bare facts of her biography are no less worthy than her legend: born of a poor family in the provinces and raised in a convent, she was an entertainer and the mistress of men of impeccable social standing, and she began her career not as a dressmaker but as a milliner. Chanel's enduring influence is necessarily based on the long shadow cast over fashion by her maison couture. Chanel examines the history of the House of Chanel both thematically and chronologically, introducing ideas and elements of biography as they were expressed in her collections. Period examples are juxtaposed with the work of Karl Lagerfeld, who, beginning in 1983, just over ten years after Chanel's death, reinvented and revolutionized the House's identity. It is in Lagerfeld's masterful and often irreverent interpretations of Chanel's work, as well as his mixing of influences from high and low culture, that the historic importance of Chanel and the resonance of her image as the independent, elegant modern woman are both defined and reasserted for the contemporary world.
This volume explores Poiret's radical modernity. Essays by renowned scholars describe the historical context of his work; its relation to the dominant artistic discourses of the early 20th century; his muse, Denise Poiret, and her influence on his work; and his role in the paradigmatic shift to a new ideal of feminine beauty.
“This coffee-table book is the first-ever collection of works devoted to celebrating black models. Fashion devotees will find glorious images of supers such as Iman, Tyra Banks, Naomi Campbell, Joan Smalls, and Adwoa Aboah alongside interviews and personal essays.” —Vogue Filled with revealing essays, interviews, and stunning photographs, Supreme Models pays tribute to black models past and present: from the first to be featured in catalogs and on magazine covers, like Iman, Donyale Luna, and Beverly Johnson, to the supermodels who reigned in the nineties—Tyra Banks, Naomi Campbell, and Veronica Webb. The book also observes the newest generation of models—Adut Akech, Jourdan Dunn, and Joan Smalls—who are shaking up the fashion industry by speaking out about racial prejudice while becoming social media sensations. Written by celebrity fashion stylist and journalist Marcellas Reynolds, Supreme Models features more than 70 women from the last 75 years. Reynolds writes, “I hope that everyone who reads this book learns something about the models included within—and more about the business of fashion and modeling. But what I want most is for Supreme Models to be a source for the little boys, or girls, who like my childhood self, need to see themselves represented in a positive light.” The book, filled with gorgeous photographs of the women, details their most memorable campaigns, covers, editorials, and runway shows. Black models have been influencing fashion and pop culture for decades, reshaping beauty standards and boundaries. Supreme Models is a celebration of their monumental impact.
But at a time when every American designer of note was sent to Paris to copy the latest styles, McCardell shrugged off the Paris couture industry, refusing, after 1940, to visit the collections or even to look at Paris design for fear it might influence her. In Claire McCardell: Redefining Modernism, coauthors Kohle Yohannan and Nancy Nolf have told a story that is as much biography as it is fashion history.