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Well-to-do colonial women followed the fashion trends of 18th century Europe with the help of The Milliner. Beautiful color photographs and illustrations help depict old-fashioned gown and lace making, how clothing was custom made, and how laundry was done.
The Female Economy explores that lost world of women's dominance, showing how independent, often ambitious businesswomen and the sometimes imperious consumers they served gradually vanished from the scene as custom production gave way to a largely unskilled modern garment industry controlled by men. Wendy Gamber helps overturn the portrait of wage-earning women as docile souls who would find fulfillment only in marriage and motherhood.
Studies of millinery tend to focus on hats, rather than the extraordinarily skilled workers who create them. American Milliners and their World sets out to redress the balance, examining the position of the milliner in American society from the 18th to the 20th century. Concentrating on the struggle of female hat-makers to claim their social place, it investigates how they were influenced by changing attitudes towards women in the workplace. Drawing on diaries, etiquette books, trade journals and contemporary literature, Stewart illustrates how making hats became big business, but milliners' working conditions failed to improve. Taking the reader from the Industrial Revolution of the 1760s to the sexual revolution of the 1960s, and from Belle Epoque feathers to elegant cloches and Jackie Kennedy's pillbox hat, the book offers a new insight into the rise and fall of a fashionable industry. Beautifully illustrated and packed with original research, American Milliners and their World blends fashion history and anthropology to tell the forgotten stories of the women behind some of the most iconic hats of the last three centuries.
Hiding inside the hollow pedestal of the statue standing just outside the castle walls, sixteen-year-olds Lavinia and her visiting-for-the-summer cousin, Beatrice, develop a crush on one of the night sentries patrolling the perimeter. When, by chance, they learn of the debilitating illness of the sentrys ten-year-old son, Benjy, they resolve to bring secret medical help to the family after the Duke, Lavinias father, refuses their pleas. At the same time, it is summer in the Midlands and the two young ladies begin to flirt with two lads their own age that they meet in the forest. The working class lads, who serve as apprentice milliners hat-makers in town, do not suspect at first anything more than romance is involved with these privileged daughters of English nobility. But they both soon become swept up in something more, an ill-fated scheme to kidnap a sick lad from his home while a doctor is deceived by the disguised-as-servants cousins into treating the boy on a moonlit forest trail. The plan takes an unpredictable, tragic turn when the mother of the boy is awakened in the middle of the night to find her son missing. She takes the news directly to her husband walking his rounds at the castle, and, still bearing the sentrys sword upon his hip, he flies on horseback after the two milliners responsible. Set in Elizabethan England around 1600, the book mixes adventure and romance in equal measure with the text in the form of a Hollywood script.
The orphaned Philadelphia Austen was forced to seek for herself those objects of eighteenth-century womanhood: social esteem and financial independence. Her story is circumscribed by the limitations of women’s lives of that time and opens up a wider exploration of those times through a detailed examination of one particular woman: Jane Austen’s ‘aunt Phila’. The story of her aunt had impressed the young Jane Austen when she created a character, Cecilia Wynne, in her short fiction, Catharine or the Bower, written when she was sixteen. Cecilia’s experience as an orphaned ‘girl of genius and feeling’ being ‘sent in quest of a husband to Bengal’, mirrored that of her recently deceased aunt. Such a connection between author and aunt sparked an interest in an otherwise neglected member of the Austen clan. How did this aunt who had provided inspiration for the young Jane manage to make her way in the world? How did the course of her life reflect the lives of other women of her times? What worlds did she move in? What people did she meet? Little was known about Philadelphia, yet her daughter Eliza, was said to be a central figure in Jane Austen’s life. The conventional trajectory Philadelphia’s was changed when, after completing a millinery apprenticeship in London, she took the chance of a journey to India and an arranged marriage. There she became part of the colorful world of the honorable East India Company and encountered many of its most notable people. Her life was transformed.