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"The subject of woman, that is to say, the modern woman, with her varying instincts, pursuits, and peculiarities alone would fill many large volumes. I feel bound, therefore, to confine myself to the discussion of one particular side of her nature, one for which personally I have most sympathy, and one which perhaps can best be described by the epithet 'womanly.'" Originally published in 1902, this extremely rare volume offers a remarkable snapshot of the fashionable Edwardian woman. The author — fashion editor for The Lady's Realm, a monthly London magazine for more "enlightened" readers — offers rich counsel on how to cultivate charm and social standing through the subtle art of dress. Illustrated fashion tips feature a wide range of advice on corsets, petticoats, hats, jewelry, footwear, accessories, and more, with chapters on "The All-Important Question of Colour," "Hats Sublime and Ridiculous," "The Revival of Fashions of the Past," and "The Aggressiveness of the Smart Woman." A selection of vintage advertisements for London-area fashion shops is also included.
Korsettets kulturhistorie fra renæssancen til det 20. århundrede
Over the past ten years the study of dress history has finally broken free of the shackles that have held it back, and is now benefiting from new, multidisciplinary approaches and practices, which draw on material culture, art history, ethnography, and cultural studies. This book focuses on the development of these new methods to be found within the field of dress history and dress studies, and assesses the current condition and future directions of the subject.
Intimate apparel, a term in use by 1921, has played a crucial role in the development of the "naughty but nice" feminine ideal that emerged in the twentieth century. Jill Fields's engaging, imaginative, and sophisticated history of twentieth-century lingerie tours the world of women's intimate apparel and arrives at nothing less than a sweeping view of twentieth-century women's history via the undergarments they wore. Illustrated throughout and drawing on a wealth of evidence from fashion magazines, trade periodicals, costume artifacts, Hollywood films, and the records of organized labor, An Intimate Affair is a provocative examination of the ways cultural meanings are orchestrated by the "fashion-industrial complex," and the ways in which individuals and groups embrace, reject, or derive meaning from these everyday, yet highly significant, intimate articles of clothing.
Titanic Style explores the world of fashion and dress at the time of RMS Titanic’s famous voyage. We are taken through the wardrobes of passengers and crew of all classes and ages, from the most intimate undergarments to the warm overcoats needed on that last fearful cold night. The ship was a microcosm of post-Edwardian society, in which everyone belonged to a particular class and dressed accordingly. The luxurious attire of the ladies in first class, the cream of European and American society, was changed several times a day, while the more sober and conservative clothes of the men of all ranks subtly conveyed their status, and children were dressed to enhance their social standing. We also visit the families below deck, dressed in second-hand or homemade clothes, heading for a new life in a country free of repressive class distinction. Stories and records of individual passengers and crew members are woven into the narrative to give an engaging account of what life was really like on board the world’s most famous ocean liner.
Since the 1970s, the literary and cultural politics of the turn-of-the-century New Woman have received increasing academic attention. Whether she is seen as the emblem of sexual anarchy, an agent of mediation between mass market and modernist cultures, or as a symptom of the consolidation of nineteenth and early twentieth-century political liberation movements, the New Woman represents a site of cultural and socio-political contestation and acts as a marker of modernity. This book explores the diversity of meanings ascribed to the New Woman in the context of cultural debates conducted within and across a wide range of national frameworks including the UK, Canada, North America, Europe, and Japan. The key concept of 'hybridities' is used to elucidate the national and ethnic multiplicity of the 'modern woman' as well as to locate this figure both within international consumer culture and within feminist writing. The book is structured around four key themes. 'Hybridities' examines the instabilities of New Woman identities and discourses in relation to both national/ethnic contexts and the textual parameters of New Woman writings. 'Through the (Periodical) Looking Glass' is concerned with the periodical press and its production and circulation of New Woman images. 'Feminist Counter Cultures?' interrogates feminist efforts to influence and shape this process by mimicking or subverting dominant models of representation and by establishing alternative spaces for the articulation of New Woman subjectivities. 'Race and the New Woman' inspects white New Women's investment in hegemonic racial discourses, looking at the way in which black and non-Western women inserted liberationist discourses into the New Woman debate. This book will be essential reading for advanced students and researchers of American Studies, Women's Studies, and Women's History.