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The Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut is the first book of its kind to document and celebrate the supple and sparkling fabric known today as assiut. This single-stitch metal embroidery technique originated in Turkey, but transformed into a distinctive textile tradition in Upper Egypt during the 19th century. Vintage assiut is now an exotic cult collectable, prized . This book, will entertain and educate anyone interested in its history, legends, wear and care. Vintage clothing collectors, textile historians, and belly dancers will all find inspiration and information about this sometimes mysterious, yet always beautiful assiut cloth.Part one traces the history of this cloth, known variously as tulle bi telli, tally, and assiut, from the era when it first entered the historic record until the twenty-first century. This section of the book is lavishly illustrated with vintage images from around the globe. Part two dives into the technology of the fabric, exploring the history of the fiber content and weave structure of the ground cloth as well as the structure of the metal embroidery stitch. Part three is about integrating both vintage and modern textiles into your collection and using it in your wardrobe. Part four presents the myriad ways that assiut cloth is used for historic costuming, traditional and modern belly dance performance attire.Dawn Devine aka Davina, art historian and author, is an internationally renowned belly dancer, who has spent more than 18 years working on an interdisciplinary research project on the history of assiut. The result is this revolutionary book, filled with more than 700 vintage and modern b/w photos to inspire and delight.
The first economic history of ancient Egypt employing a New Institutional Economics approach and covering the entire pharaonic period, 3000-30 BCE.
Extending deconstructive theory to historical and political analysis, Timothy Mitchell examines the peculiarity of Western conceptions of order and truth through a re-reading of Europe's colonial encounter with nineteenth-century Egypt.
Costuming from the Hip is a comprehensive reference for anyone who works with Middle Eastern dancewear. Dancers, costume makers, designers, and historical re-enactors will like the many illustrations, historical patterns, construction techniques, and hundreds of hints and tips. This 118-page book will take you step-by-step through measuring your body, researching your costume, laying out the patterns, fitting it, and accessorizing your creation. Topics covered include: * Making your measurement chart * Turkish coats, kaftans, and thobes * Veils * Jewelry * Designing for every body type * Coin, tassle, and cabaret belts * Bras and cholis * Shirts, vests, and blouses * Men's wear * Going professional. The book includes a glossary and an extensive bibliography.
Embellished Bras: Basic Techniques provides in-depth instruction and useful advice that guides readers through the process of turning a store-bought lingerie bra into a fabulous costume piece. This easy-to-follow four-phase process is presented through graphic step-by-step photographs and illustrations. You'll learn how to make a bra cup pattern, cover the bra and straps, and embellish with fringe, beadwork, appliques, and jewelry. From ballroom to belly dance, Embellished Bras addresses the special needs of dancers no matter what performance style. This "workshop in a book" is an excellent resource for both novice sewers and professional designers.
This book is an exciting study of clothing as a complex cultural expression. The author analyses contemporary social meanings found in the symbols of dress and shows the way groups and individuals use the symbols like a language to reveal or conceal significant aspects of their personal identities. Reveal and Conceal contains thirty-three line drawings, clearly depicting the various modes and differences in dress. Forty-eight photographs are included in the book, most of which were taken by the author during her extensive interviews with the women and men of the Egyptian villages and cities she researched.
A compelling look at the influence of ancient Egypt on modern fashion, by a dress, textile, and decorative arts historian—includes illustrations. In November 1922, when the combined efforts of Howard Carter and Lord Carnarvon revealed to the world the “wonderful things” buried in Tutankhamen’s tomb, Egypt had already been a source for new trends in fashion for quite some time. In the early nineteenth century, for example, Napoleon’s Egyptian campaign contributed to the popularization of Kashmir shawls, while the inauguration of the Suez Canal in 1869 stimulated “Egyptianizing” trends in gowns, jewelry, and textiles. But post-1922, a veritable Egyptomania craze invested all artistic fields, quickly becoming a dominant Art Deco motif. That included fashion. “Flapper-style” dresses were elaborately embroidered with beaded “Egyptian” patterns; evening bags were decorated with hieroglyphics; brooches nonchalantly sported ancient scarabs; and the sleek black bobs favored by the admired icons of the time, Louise Brooks and Clara Bow, looked up to the fabled Egyptian beauty of Nefertiti and Cleopatra. Egyptomania continues to influence twenty-first-century fashion as well: the awe-inspiring John Galliano’s designs for Dior Spring-Summer 2004 brought back pharaonic crowns in lieu of headdresses in a triumph of gold-encrusted creations; the ancient practice of mummification was referenced by Iris van Herpen’s Fall 2009 collection; and Egyptian vibes resonated in Chanel’s Métiers d’Art 2018/2019 collection. Through the combination of rigorous fashion history research, intriguing images, and well-informed, approachable writing, Style from the Nile offers a comprehensive overview of a phenomenon that, to this day, has a mesmerizing appeal.
In 1854, American Presbyterian missionaries arrived in Egypt as part of a larger Anglo-American Protestant movement aiming for worldwide evangelization. Protected by British imperial power, and later by mounting American global influence, their enterprise flourished during the next century. American Evangelicals in Egypt follows the ongoing and often unexpected transformations initiated by missionary activities between the mid-nineteenth century and 1967--when the Six-Day Arab-Israeli War uprooted the Americans in Egypt. Heather Sharkey uses Arabic and English sources to shed light on the many facets of missionary encounters with Egyptians. These occurred through institutions, such as schools and hospitals, and through literacy programs and rural development projects that anticipated later efforts of NGOs. To Egyptian Muslims and Coptic Christians, missionaries presented new models for civic participation and for women's roles in collective worship and community life. At the same time, missionary efforts to convert Muslims and reform Copts stimulated new forms of Egyptian social activism and prompted nationalists to enact laws restricting missionary activities. Faced by Islamic strictures and customs regarding apostasy and conversion, and by expectations regarding the proper structure of Christian-Muslim relations, missionaries in Egypt set off debates about religious liberty that reverberate even today. Ultimately, the missionary experience in Egypt led to reconsiderations of mission policy and evangelism in ways that had long-term repercussions for the culture of American Protestantism.