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A view from the weaver's fingertips: the technical and creative come together in a pioneering study of Andean weaving
In the world of the ancient Andes, textiles were often the most valuable commodity people possessed—far beyond gold and silver—and they were a major medium for conveying critical cultural meaning. Textiles of the Andes features a wealth of rare and exquisite pieces, many of great iconographic and technical importance, ranging in date from the Paracas to the Inca and Colonial periods, from 200 BC to the late 18th century. Examples of contemporary Andean textiles complement the early pieces and illustrate the continuity of weaving traditions in the Andes. • Detailed photos show each textile in full • Glossary of technical analysis for designers • Authoritative introduction by an expert in the field provides a context for appreciating and enjoying the superb and varied designs
A richly illustrated, bilingual book, this guide visits 20 villages in the Chiapas Highlands to showcase their stunning handwoven cloth while also providing an insider’s look into their history, folklore, festivals, traditions, and daily lives. Ritual transvestites, Virgin statues draped with native blouses, tunics designed to look like howler monkey fur, and elaborately floral shawls and ponchos—these are just a few of the unforgettable images captured in the book. Also included are a pull-out map of the Chiapas Highlands and dates of special festivals and local markets.
The Quechua people of southern Peru are both agriculturalists and herders who maintain large herds of alpacas and llamas. But they are also weavers, and it is through weaving that their cultural traditions are passed down over the generations. Owing to the region's isolation, the textile symbols, forms of clothing, and technical processes remain strongly linked to the people's environment and their ancestors. Heckman's photographs convey the warmth and vitality of the Quechua people and illustrate how the land is intricately woven into their lives and their beliefs. Quechua weavers in the mountainous regions near Cuzco, Peru, produce certain textile forms and designs not found elsewhere in the Andes. Their textiles are a legacy of their Andean ancestors. Andrea Heckman has devoted more than twenty years to documenting and analyzing the ways Andean beliefs persist over time in visual symbols embedded in textiles and portrayed in rituals. Her primary focus is the area around the sacred peak of Ausangate, in southern Peru, some eighty-five miles southeast of the former Inca capital of Cuzco. The core of this book is an ethnographic account of the textiles and their place in daily life that considers how the form and content of Quechua patterns and designs pass stories down and preserve traditions as well as how the ritual use of textiles sustain a sense of community and a connection to the past. Heckman concludes by assessing the influences of the global economy on indigenous Quechua, who maintain their own worldview within the larger fabric of twentieth-century cultural values and hence have survived everything from Latin American militarism to a tidal wave of post-modern change.
Since the days of the Spanish Conquest, the indigenous populations of Andean Bolivia have struggled to preserve their textile-based writings. This struggle continues today, both in schools and within the larger culture. The Metamorphosis of Heads explores the history and cultural significance of Andean textile writings—weavings and kipus (knotted cords), and their extreme contrasts in form and production from European alphabet-based texts. Denise Arnold examines the subjugation of native texts in favor of European ones through the imposition of homogenized curricula by the Educational Reform Law. As Arnold reveals, this struggle over language and education directly correlates to long-standing conflicts for land ownership and power in the region, since the majority of the more affluent urban population is Spanish speaking, while indigenous languages are spoken primarily among the rural poor. The Metamorphosis of Heads acknowledges the vital importance of contemporary efforts to maintain Andean history and cultural heritage in schools, and shows how indigenous Andean populations have incorporated elements of Western textual practices into their own textual activities.Based on extensive fieldwork over two decades, and historical, anthropological, and ethnographic research, Denise Arnold assembles an original and richly diverse interdisciplinary study. The textual theory she proposes has wider ramifications for studies of Latin America in general, while recognizing the specifically regional practices of indigenous struggles in the face of nation building and economic globalization.
Distinct from all textiles in South America, with brilliant colors, varied motifs and patterns, and fine weaving, the textiles woven in and around the ancient lands of Andamarca located in the Huamachuco region of northern Peru represent an unbroken elite weaving tradition directly descended from the Incas.This remote area of the Andean highlands was designated by the Incas as a royal elite weaving community. Miraculously, its weaving traditions survived through the Spanish Colonial period to the present. Indeed, waistbands still woven today and referred to locally as "sara" belts are identical in pattern and colors found in a weaving code for a waist or head band described in a 16th Century Spanish Chronicle written by Martin de Murúa. Our interpretation is that this was made for the sole use of the Inca Queen, the Coya, and/or closely related princesses.Using ethnographic data collected through interviews with the indigenous population, blankets, waistbands, and to a lesser extent other cultural and ritualistic objects, are described and analyzed. A detailed, novel, and rigorous symmetry analysis is used to identify characteristics, patterns, evolution, references, style, motifs, and age.
"This unique volume illustrates and discusses in detail more than 160 extraordinary fine and decorative art works of the colonial Andes, including examples of the intricate Inca weavings and metalwork that preceded the colonial era as well as a few of the remarkably inventive forms this art took after independence from Spain. An international array of scholars and experts examines the cultural context, aesthetic preoccupations, and diverse themes of art from the viceregal period, particularly the florid patternings and the fanciful beasts and hybrid creatures that have come to characterize colonial Andean art."--Jacket.
Winner, Silver Medal in the Craft/Hobby Category, 2018 IBPA Benjamin Franklin Awards Nilda Calla aupa Alvarez has gathered artisans of all ages to share their knowledge, lore, and deep skills, highlighting many of the techniques used by craftspeople in the Andes. They reveal clever highland secrets for everything from skeining yarn and knitting in reverse to weaving tubular borders and embellishing fabric with complex stitches. For many of these techniques, they provide concise step-by-step instructions accessible for North American crafters. Thoughtful, detailed descriptions of Andean cultural traditions frame each section, providing context and rare insight into what textile work means as a living heritage of the Quechua people.
The aim of this book is to explore the current research into the ways in which Andean peoples create, transmit, maintain and transform their knowledge in culturally significant ways, and how processes of teaching and learning relate to these. The contributions, from eminent researchers in anthropology, sociology, cultural studies and linguistics, include cross-disciplinary approaches, and cover a diverse geographic area from Ecuador to Peru, Bolivia and Northern Chile. The case studies reflect on the variously harmonious and conflictive relationships between knowledge, power, communicative media and cultural identities in Andean societies, from within local, national and global perspectives.
In this revealing cultural study, dozens of ancient weavers and the landscapes that they occupy in the Cusco region of the Andes are vividly portrayed through personal stories and life experiences, bringing to life the decades of endurance, skill, fortitude, and natural pride honed from the time-honored traditions of the region and its people. Some of the storytellers featured here include Pitumarca's Timoteo Ccarita, who became so interested in the old textiles he found on his own travels that he re-created tapestry techniques from sight; Leonardo Quispe, who single-handedly rescued and revived the techniques of ikat-style tied-warp dyeing (watay) in his community of Santa Cruz de Sallac; and Cipriana Mamani, who remembers that in her town of Accha Alta, their finely woven textiles had many lives and were repurposed for use over and over again. Intimate photographs capture each of the elders, some of whom had never seen a picture of themselves or even looked in a mirror, revealing the life, strength, character, and experience of these men and women.