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"Published to accompany the exhibition The Fabric of India at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, from 3 October 2015 to 10 January 2016"--Title page verso.
An essential book for those interested in Indian style and culture.
What do I wear today? The way we answer this question says much about how we manage and express our identities. This detailed study examines sartorial style in India from the late nineteenth century to the present, showing how trends in clothing are related to caste, level of education, urbanization, and a larger cultural debate about the nature of Indian identity. Clothes have been used to assert power, challenge authority, and instigate social change throughout Indian society. During the struggle for independence, members of the Indian elite incorporated elements of Western style into their clothes, while Gandhi's adoption of the loincloth symbolized the rejection of European power and the contrast between Indian poverty and British wealth. Similar tensions are played out today, with urban Indians adopting "ethnic" dress as villagers seek modern fashions. Illustrated with photographs, satirical drawings, and magazine advertisements, this book shows how individuals and groups play with history and culture as they decide what to wear.
During the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries the production of dress shifted dramatically from being predominantly hand-crafted in small quantities to machine-manufactured in bulk. The increasing democratization of appearances made new fashions more widely available, but at the same time made the need to differentiate social rank seem more pressing. In this age of empire, the coding of class, gender and race was frequently negotiated through dress in complex ways, from fashionable dress which restricted or exaggerated the female body to liberating reform dress, from self-defining black dandies to the oppressions and resistances of slave dress. Richly illustrated with over 100 images and drawing on a plethora of visual, textual and object sources, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Empire presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.
This vibrant volume showcases a stunning collection of Indian textiles from the V&A, and explores in depth their history, production techniques, and designs. Textiles have a long and distinguished history on the Indian subcontinent, from the dazzling woven silks worn by royalty to the simple block-printed patterns worn by the masses. Drawing from the Victoria and Albert Museum’s world-class collection, this beautiful and informative reference features breathtaking and varied textile designs, techniques, and colors. Each piece is examined in detail through close-up shots of the fabric and patterns, and demonstrates different weaving techniques, allowing readers to see precisely how the textile was made. Divided into three chapters by pattern style—“Floral,” “Figurative,” and “Geometric”—each chapter comprises an introduction to the style’s history along with its intended use. This authoritative volume overflows with distinctive colors and patterns to inspire and inform the reader about the history of Indian textiles and patterns, their intended use, and the methods by which they were made.