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The Twenty-Second Symposium on Naval Hydrodynamics was held in Washington, D.C., from August 9-14, 1998. It coincided with the 100th anniversary of the David Taylor Model Basin. This international symposium was organized jointly by the Office of Naval Research (Mechanics and Energy Conversion S&T Division), the National Research Council (Naval Studies Board), and the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Carderock Division (David Taylor Model Basin). This biennial symposium promotes the technical exchange of naval research developments of common interest to all the countries of the world. The forum encourages both formal and informal discussion of the presented papers, and the occasion provides an opportunity for direct communication between international peers.
The study of sea waves has always been in the focus of mankind's atten tion. This is attributed not only to a desire to understand the behaviour in seas and oceans, but also, it has some practical necessity. Developing up-to date wind wave numerical methods requires detailed mathematical modelling, starting with wave generation, development, propagation and transformation on the surface in different water areas under quasi-stationary conditions, up to a synthesis of climatic features observed under different wave generation conditions in oceans, sea or coastal areas. The present monograph considers wind waves in terms of the most general formulation of the problem as a probable hydrodynamic process with wide spatial variability. It ranges between the global scale of the oceans, whose typical size is comparable with the Earth's radius, to the regional and local scales of the seas, including water areas limited in space with significant current or depth gradients in coastal zones, where waves cease their existence having propagated tens of thousand miles.
This revised and updated second edition details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of rogue waves due to modulational instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of extreme ocean wave generation in deep water as well as in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between in situ observations, experimental data and rogue wave theories. In addition, recent results on tsunami waves due to subaerial landslides are presented. This book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.
Shallow water acoustics (SWA), the study of how low and medium frequency sound propagates and scatters on the continental shelves of the worlds oceans, has both technical interest and a large number of practical applications. Technically, shallow water poses an interesting medium for the study of acoustic scattering, inverse theory, and propagation physics in a complicated oceanic waveguide. Practically, shallow water acoustics has interest for geophysical exploration, marine mammal studies, and naval applications. Additionally, one notes the very interdisciplinary nature of shallow water acoustics, including acoustical physics, physical oceanography, marine geology, and marine biology. In this specialized volume the authors, all of whom have extensive at-sea experience in US and Russian research efforts, have tried to summarize the main experimental, theoretical, and computational results in shallow water acoustics, with an emphasis on providing physical insight into the topics presented.
Water wave kinematics is a central field of study in ocean and coastal engineering. The wave forces on structures as well as sand erosion both on coastlines and in the ocean are to a large extent governed by the local distribution of velocities and accelerations of the water particles. Our knowledge of waves has generally been derived from measurements of the water surface elevations. The reason for this is that the surface elevations have been of primary interest and fairly cheap and reliable instruments have been developed for such measurements. The water wave kinematics has then been derived from the surface elevation information by various theories. However. the different theories for the calculation of water particle velocities and acceleration have turned out to give significant differences in the calculated responses of structures. In recent years new measurement techniques have made it possible to make accurate velocity measurements. Hence. the editors deemed it to be useful to bring together a group of experts working actively as researchers in the field of water wave kinematics. These experts included theoreticians as well as experimentalists on wave kinematics. It was also deemed useful to include experts on the response of structures to have their views from a structural engineering point of view on what information is really needed on water wave kinematics.
Nonlinear effects on the dispersion relation of waves in shallow water are examined with measurements collected on a mild sloping sandy beach during the recent Sandy Duck experiment. Four arrays of bottom pressure sensors were deployed in depths ranging from 3 - 6 m during August-November, 1997. For each of these arrays, a root-mean-square average wavenumber was estimated as a function of frequency from the cross-spectra of one-hour-long pressure records. The observed wavenumbers are compared to linear finite depth theory predictions and to predictions based on a stochastic formulation of weakly nonlinear Boussinesq equations that incorporate both frequency and amplitude dispersion effects. The observed wavenumbers are generally in agreement with the nonlinear theory predictions and deviate significantly (maximum errors averaged over the spectrum of about 25%) from the linear theory predictions. In high energy conditions with breaking or nearly breaking waves, the effects of amplitude and frequency dispersion tend to cancel, and all components of the wave spectrum travel with approximately the shallow water wave speed. These results are consistent with previous studies.
With climate change, erosion, and human encroachment on coastal environments growing all over the world, it is increasingly important to protect populations and environments close to the sea from storms, tsunamis, and other events that can be not just costly to property but deadly. This book is one step in bringing the science of protection from these events forward, the most in-depth study of its kind ever published. The analytic and numerical modeling problems of nonlinear wave activities in shallow water are analyzed in this work. Using the author's unique method described herein, the equations of shallow water are solved, and asymmetries that cannot be described by the Stokes theory are solved. Based on analytical expressions, the impacts of dispersion effects to wave profiles transformation are taken into account. The 3D models of the distribution and refraction of nonlinear surface gravity wave at the various coast formations are introduced, as well. The work covers the problems of numerical simulation of the run-up of nonlinear surface gravity waves in shallow water, transformation of the surface waves for the 1D case, and models for the refraction of numerical modeling of the run-up of nonlinear surface gravity waves at beach approach of various slopes. 2D and 3D modeling of nonlinear surface gravity waves are based on Navier-Stokes equations. In 2D modeling the influence of the bottom of the coastal zone on flooding of the coastal zone during storm surges was investigated. Various stages of the run-up of nonlinear surface gravity waves are introduced and analyzed. The 3D modeling process of the run-up is tested for the coast protection work of the slope type construction. Useful for students and veteran engineers and scientists alike, this is the only book covering these important issues facing anyone working with coastal models and ocean, coastal, and civil engineering in this area.
This is the first book on the numerical method of lines, a relatively new method for solving partial differential equations. The Numerical Method of Lines is also the first book to accommodate all major classes of partial differential equations. This is essentially an applications book for computer scientists. The author will separately offer a disk of FORTRAN 77 programs with 250 specific applications, ranging from "Shuttle Launch Simulation" to "Temperature Control of a Nuclear Fuel Rod."