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This monograph presents cutting-edge research on dispersive wave modelling, and the numerical methods used to simulate the propagation and generation of long surface water waves. Including both an overview of existing dispersive models, as well as recent breakthroughs, the authors maintain an ideal balance between theory and applications. From modelling tsunami waves to smaller scale coastal processes, this book will be an indispensable resource for those looking to be brought up-to-date in this active area of scientific research. Beginning with an introduction to various dispersive long wave models on the flat space, the authors establish a foundation on which readers can confidently approach more advanced mathematical models and numerical techniques. The first two chapters of the book cover modelling and numerical simulation over globally flat spaces, including adaptive moving grid methods along with the operator splitting approach, which was historically proposed at the Institute of Computational Technologies at Novosibirsk. Later chapters build on this to explore high-end mathematical modelling of the fluid flow over deformed and rotating spheres using the operator splitting approach. The appendices that follow further elaborate by providing valuable insight into long wave models based on the potential flow assumption, and modified intermediate weakly nonlinear weakly dispersive equations. Dispersive Shallow Water Waves will be a valuable resource for researchers studying theoretical or applied oceanography, nonlinear waves as well as those more broadly interested in free surface flow dynamics.
There are various types of waves including water, sound, electromagnetic, seismic and shock etc. These waves need to be analyzed and understood for different practical applications. This book is an attempt to consider the waves in detail to understand the physical and mathematical phenomena. A major challenge is to model waves by experimental studies.The aim of this book is to address the efficient and recently developed theories along with the basic equations of wave dynamics. The latest development of analytical/semi analytical and numerical methods with respect to wave dynamics are also covered. Further few challenging experimental studies are considered for related problems. This book presents advances in wave dynamics in simple and easy to follow chapters for the benefit of the readers/researchers.
This book is a detailed study of solitary waves and periodic waves in shallow water. The author, Joseph B. Keller, is a renowned mathematician with extensive expertise in applied mathematics. In this book, he provides a comprehensive analysis of the physical phenomena associated with the propagation of waves in shallow water. This work has been selected by scholars as being culturally important, and is part of the knowledge base of civilization as we know it. This work is in the "public domain in the United States of America, and possibly other nations. Within the United States, you may freely copy and distribute this work, as no entity (individual or corporate) has a copyright on the body of the work. Scholars believe, and we concur, that this work is important enough to be preserved, reproduced, and made generally available to the public. We appreciate your support of the preservation process, and thank you for being an important part of keeping this knowledge alive and relevant.
Nonlinear effects on the dispersion relation of waves in shallow water are examined with measurements collected on a mild sloping sandy beach during the recent Sandy Duck experiment. Four arrays of bottom pressure sensors were deployed in depths ranging from 3 - 6 m during August-November, 1997. For each of these arrays, a root-mean-square average wavenumber was estimated as a function of frequency from the cross-spectra of one-hour-long pressure records. The observed wavenumbers are compared to linear finite depth theory predictions and to predictions based on a stochastic formulation of weakly nonlinear Boussinesq equations that incorporate both frequency and amplitude dispersion effects. The observed wavenumbers are generally in agreement with the nonlinear theory predictions and deviate significantly (maximum errors averaged over the spectrum of about 25%) from the linear theory predictions. In high energy conditions with breaking or nearly breaking waves, the effects of amplitude and frequency dispersion tend to cancel, and all components of the wave spectrum travel with approximately the shallow water wave speed. These results are consistent with previous studies.