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This monograph is an attempt to compile the present state of knowledge on ocean wave analysis and prediction. The emphasis of the monograph is on the development of ocean wave analysis and predic tion procedures and their utility for real-time operations and appli cations. Most of the material in the monograph is derived from journal articles, research reports and recent conference proceedings; some of the basic material is extracted from standard text books on physical oceanography and wind waves. Ocean wave analysis and prediction is becoming an important activity in the meteorological and oceanographic services of many countries. The present status of ocean wave prediction may be compar able to the status of numerical weather prediction of the mid-sixties and early seventies when a number of weather prediction models were developed for research purposes, many of which were later put into operational use by meteorological services of several countries. The increased emphasis on sea-state analysis and prediction has created a need for a ready reference material on various ocean wave analysis and modelling techniques and their utility. The present monograph is aimed at fulfilling this need. The monograph should prove useful to the ocean wave modelling community as well as to marine forecasters, coastal engineers and offshore technologists. The monograph could also be used for a senior undergraduate (or a first year graduate) level course in ocean wave modelling and marine meteorology.
The study of sea waves has always been in the focus of mankind's atten tion. This is attributed not only to a desire to understand the behaviour in seas and oceans, but also, it has some practical necessity. Developing up-to date wind wave numerical methods requires detailed mathematical modelling, starting with wave generation, development, propagation and transformation on the surface in different water areas under quasi-stationary conditions, up to a synthesis of climatic features observed under different wave generation conditions in oceans, sea or coastal areas. The present monograph considers wind waves in terms of the most general formulation of the problem as a probable hydrodynamic process with wide spatial variability. It ranges between the global scale of the oceans, whose typical size is comparable with the Earth's radius, to the regional and local scales of the seas, including water areas limited in space with significant current or depth gradients in coastal zones, where waves cease their existence having propagated tens of thousand miles.
In 1960, Dr. George Deacon ofthe National Institute ofOceanography in England organized a meeting in Easton, Maryland that summarized the state of our understanding at that time of ocean wave statistics and dynamics. It was a pivotal occasion: spectral techniques for wave measurement were beginning to be used, wave-wave interactions hadjust been discovered, and simple models for the growth of waves by wind were being developed. The meeting laid the foundation for much work that was to follow, but one could hardly have imagined the extent to which new techniques of measurement, particularly by remote sensing, new methods of calculation and computation, and new theoretical and laboratory results would, in the following twenty years, build on this base. When Gaspar Valenzuela of the V. S. Naval Research Laboratory perceived that the time was right for a second such meeting, it was natural that Sir George Deacon would be invited to serve as honorary chairman for the meeting, and the entire waves community was delighted at his acceptance. The present volume contains reviewed and edited papers given at this second meeting, held this time in Miami, Florida, May 13-20, 1981, with the generous support of the Office of Naval Research, the National Aeronautics and Space Administration, and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.
The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably.This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.
Random waves are the most important constituent of the sea environment, as they make the design of maritime structures quite different from that of structures on land. In this book, the concept of random waves for the design of breakwaters, seawalls, and harbor structures is fully explored for easy comprehension by practicing engineers. Theoretical aspects are also discussed in detail for further studies by graduate students and researchers.
Covers theoretical concepts in offshore mechanics with consideration to new applications, including offshore wind farms, ocean energy devices, aquaculture, floating bridges, and submerged tunnels This comprehensive book covers important aspects of the required analysis and design of offshore structures and systems and the fundamental background material for offshore engineering. Whereas most of the books currently available in the field use traditional oil, gas, and ship industry examples in order to explain the fundamentals in offshore mechanics, this book uses more recent applications, including recent fixed-bottom and floating offshore platforms, ocean energy structures and systems such as wind turbines, wave energy converters, tidal turbines and hybrid marine platforms. Offshore Mechanics covers traditional and more recent methodologies used in offshore structure modelling (including SPH and hydroelasticity models). It also examines numerical techniques, including computational fluid dynamics and finite element method. Additionally, the book features easy-to-understand exercises and examples. Provides a comprehensive treatment for the case of recent applications in offshore mechanics for researchers and engineers Presents the subject of computational fluid dynamics (CFD) and finite element methods (FEM) along with the high fidelity numerical analysis of recent applications in offshore mechanics Offers insight into the philosophy and power of numerical simulations and an understanding of the mathematical nature of the fluid and structural dynamics with focus on offshore mechanic applications Offshore Mechanics: Structural and Fluid Dynamics for Recent Applications is an important book for graduate and senior undergraduate students in offshore engineering and for offshore engineers and researchers in the offshore industry.
In the last two decades, one of the most important research accomplishments in coastal hydrodynamics has been the development of accurate numerical models for nonlinear water wave propagation over a complex bathymetry from a relatively deep-water depth into the surf zone. This book contains five excellent papers reviewing different methodologies in various aspects of wave modeling; the authors are active researchers who have made original contributions to these subjects.
In the last two decades, one of the most important research accomplishments in coastal hydrodynamics has been the development of accurate numerical models for nonlinear water wave propagation over a complex bathymetry from a relatively deep-water depth into the surf zone. This book contains five excellent papers reviewing different methodologies in various aspects of wave modeling; the authors are active researchers who have made original contributions to these subjects.
Effective coastal engineering is expensive, but it is not as costly as neglect or ineffective intervention. Good practice needs to be based on sound principles, but theoretical work and modelling also need to be well grounded in practice, which is continuously evolving. Conceptual and detailed design has been advanced by new industry publications since the publication of the second edition. This third edition provides a number of updates: the sections on wave overtopping have been updated to reflect changes brought in with the recently issued EurOtop II manual; a detailed worked example is given of the calculation of extreme wave conditions for design; additional examples have been included on the reliability of structures and probabilistic design; the method for tidal analysis and calculation of amplitudes and phases of harmonic constituents from water level time series has been introduced in a new appendix together with a worked example of harmonic analysis; and a real-life example is included of a design adapting to climate change. This book is especially useful as an information source for undergraduates and engineering MSc students specializing in coastal engineering and management. Readers require a good grounding in basic fluid mechanics or engineering hydraulics, and some familiarity with elementary statistical concepts.