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This completely revised and updated edition with all new color photos brings together in a single volume the anchoring systems most popular among climbers. Most climbers today learn their craft on artificial climbing walls and on sport routes with fixed protection. Their first efforts to lead on trad routes often come as a rude shock--they find that they haven't the skills and training to safeguard the climb or to set up solid belays. This new edition of Climbing Anchors is the climber's complete and authoritative source of information on protection, from fundamental knots to sophisticated rigging and equalizing skills.
Seminal book updated by author of the acclaimed Advanced Rock Climbing Easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions 400 new color photos demonstrate techniques For this new edition of Rock Climbing Anchors, climber and writer Topher Donahue carefully reviewed each technique and lesson, making them even easier to understand and learn. Key updates include: Improved content hierarchy, reading efficiency, and technique emphasis Pros vs. Cons comparison lists Technological advances and changes in gear and standards Graphic illustrations of forces, movement, "right" vs. "wrong" technique, and more New section on anchor considerations for the climbing gym New distinction between "anchor" and "placement" or "piece"
Expert climber John Long analyzes more belay anchors and gives advice on their respective strengths and suitability.
Best-selling climbing instructional, now fully updated, includes new, vetted alternatives to traditional techniques
* Climbing self-rescue procedures for teams of two - the most common climbing party size * Techniques equally effective on rock, snow, and ice * Utilizes gear climbers already carry in their rack* Includes 40 one-page rescue scenarios and solutions for climbing accident analysisThe rope is stuck, or too short. A crucial piece of gear is MIA. You've wandered off route into dicey terrain. An injury leaves you or your partner in need of help. Climb long enough and finding yourself in a jam far from help is inevitable. In Climbing: Self Rescue, two long-time climbing instructors and guides teach how to improvise your own solutions, calling for outside help only when necessary. Because few climbers carry fancy (and expensive) search and rescue gear, all skills taught in this book use the items typically found on a climbing rack: rope, carabiners, slings, and cord. Text, illustrations, and photos explain knots, belaying and hauling systems, rappelling, ascension, passing knots, how to safely assist and rig an injured climber, and more. Roughly half of the book is devoted to real-life climbing scenarios and solutions ranging from moderate to severe. Because real-life situations rarely unfold as they do in practice, Climbing Self-Rescue teaches how to analyze and improvise your way out of a crisis.
• Approximately 35 new techniques, safety considerations, and subjects • National Outdoor Book Award winner in first edition • First edition of this popular title has sold 50,000 copies Thousands of rock climbers have learned the sport using Craig Luebben’s seminal and bestselling text, Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills. Now Craig’s friend and fellow climber Topher Donahue brings the content up to current standards and includes technological advances, while preserving Craig’s comprehensive approach. An award-winning climber in his own right, Topher uses his writing and photography skills to simplify the complex world of modern climbing technique and reveals the thought process behind safe and practical climbing methods. This second edition includes European climbing techniques that offer alternatives to those traditionally taught in North America. Topher has also incorporated new lessons derived from accidents due, in part, to the increased popularity of climbing. Also found in this edition: • Over 10,000 more words and 125 more photos • Three never-before-published techniques: Adjustable Hitch, High Friction Tubes, and Bight Method • Detailed technical updates throughout • New distinction between “anchor” (a group of placements, pieces, or bolts used at the end of a pitch or for top rope or rappel setup) and “placement” or “piece” (individual cams, nuts, etc., used in groups to make an anchor or used individually as protection on a pitch)
Learn the basics of rock climbing and how to lead with gear from an experienced rock-climbing instructor. It is one of the world’s most exhilarating sports, and this book can help get you going! Traditional Lead Climbing teaches you the rock-climbing basics, and it’s the first and only guidebook intended to teach you how to lead with gear! Written by Heidi Pesterfield, a rock-climbing instructor for more than 17 years, the book is filled with step-by-step directions that you can trust. Unlike other types of climbing, such as sport and direct-aid climbing, “trad” climbing relies on placing your own gear as you climb from the ground. It’s also one of the more dangerous climbing activities, where expert guidance is a must. Heidi’s invaluable book provides essential details about everything from equipment to rope management to climbing techniques. This guide helps you learn how to safely tie in to the “sharp end” of the rope and lead both single and multipitch trad routes. Dozens of close-up photos, along with fun yet informative drawings, show situations that climbers might encounter and how to deal with them. Plus, in addition to covering the basics, Traditional Lead Climbing offers sidebars that showcase the experience, wisdom, and advice of a number of world-class climbers. Regardless of your climbing background—bouldering, sport climbing, top-roping, or mountaineering—you will learn how to Transition from the gym to the great outdoors Place protection on lead Build multidirectional anchors Navigate routes and climb cracks Explore the multipitch adventure Employ basic self-rescue techniques “If you want the knowledge and nerve to take the sharp end of the rope—buy this book. When your jams meltdown and you yell out ‘falling!’—Heidi’s beta will help you live to tell the tale.” —Timmy O’Neill, world-renowned climber and host of the award-winning film Return2Sender
“The definitive guide to mountains and climbing . . .”—Conrad Anker For nearly 60 years it’s been revered as the “bible” of mountaineering–and now it’s even better than ever The best-selling instructional text for new and intermediate climbers for more than half a century New edition—fully updated techniques and all-new illustrations Researched and written by a team of expert climbers Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills is the text beloved by generations of new climbers—the standard for climbing education around the world where it has been translated into 12 languages. For the all-new 9th Edition, committees comprosed of active climbers and climbing educators reviewed every chapter of instruction, and discussed updates with staff from the American Alpine Club (AAC), the American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education (AIARE), and the Access Fund. They also worked with professional members of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), to review their work and ensure that the updated textbook includes the most current best practices for both alpine and rock climbing instruction. From gear selection to belay and repel techniques, from glacier travel to rope work, to safety, safety, and more safety—there is no more comprehensive and thoroughly vetted training manual for climbing than the standard set by Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th Edition. Significant updates to this edition include: • New alignment with AAC’s nationwide universal belay standard • Expanded and more detailed avalanche safety info, including how to better understand avalanches, evaluate hazards, travel safely in avy terrain, and locate and rescue a fellow climber in an avalanche • Newly revamped chapters on clothing and camping • All-new illustrations reflecting the latest gear and techniques—created by artist John McMullen, former art director of Climbing magazine • Review of and contributions to multiple sections by AMGA-certified guides • Fresh approach to the Ten Essentials—now making the iconic list easier to recall
Traditional, or simply, trad climbing, is a do-it-yourself adventure requiring the climbing team to negotiate the climb and to carry, hand-place and remove most if not all components of the roped safety system. In The Trad Climber’s Bible, two of the most revered and respected trad climbers in the world, John Long and Peter Croft, offer hard-won knowledge to aspiring trad climbers in a narrative format that is as informative as it is entertaining. With photos by iconic climbing photographer Greg Epperson and AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Bob Gaines, this full color book will appeal to climbers of all stripes.
Fourteen climbers and mountaineers tell their inspiring, insightful, hilarious, heart-warming and adrenaline filled stories of adventure and misadventure in Australia and beyond.