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This volume explores Poiret's radical modernity. Essays by renowned scholars describe the historical context of his work; its relation to the dominant artistic discourses of the early 20th century; his muse, Denise Poiret, and her influence on his work; and his role in the paradigmatic shift to a new ideal of feminine beauty.
"Paul Poiret (1879-1944) led the fashion world in the first decade of the twentieth century and his autobiography tells the extraordinary story of his meteoric rise to fame. From his humble Parisian childhood to his debut as a couturier, to his experiences during the First World War, Poiret reveals all in this captivating tale, first published in 1931. An astute businessman, Poiret translated the spirit of Art Deco into revolutionary garments, and his memoir brings this astonishing period to life."--Publisher's description
Through a highly original and detailed analysis of the memoirs, interviews and other life writings of Poiret, Dior and Schiaparelli, this book explores changing notions of femininity in the early decades of the twentieth century, when the democratization of fashion began. Examining the idea of modernity, eternity and the ephemeral in the writings of these haute couturiers, the book reflects on fashion's ambivalent approach to women, which both celebrated and vilified them, presenting them as both ultra modern style leaders and irrational creatures stuck in the past. This fascinating text is key reading for scholars and students of fashion, gender studies, cultural studies and history.
Monographie consacrée au créateur Paul Poiret, depuis ses débuts. Elle est le résultat d'un travail scientifique mené par des équipes françaises, anglaises et américaines.
Illustrations of designs by Paul Poiret on card stock, in paper-doll format; biographical information about Poiret on endpapers.
An innovative history of the fashion industry, focusing on the connections between Paris and New York, art and finance, and design and manufacturing. Fashion is one of the most dynamic industries in the world, with an annual retail value of $3 trillion and globally recognized icons like Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent. How did this industry generate such economic and symbolic capital? Focusing on the roles of entrepreneurs, designers, and institutions in fashion’s two most important twentieth-century centers, Paris to New York tells the history of the industry as a negotiation between art and commerce. In the late nineteenth century, Paris-based firms set the tone for a global fashion culture nurtured by artistic visionaries. In the burgeoning New York industry, however, the focus was on mass production. American buyers, trend scouts, and designers crossed the Atlantic to attend couture openings, where they were inspired by, and often accused of counterfeiting, designs made in Paris. For their part, Paris couturiers traveled to New York to understand what American consumers wanted and to make deals with local manufacturers for whom they designed exclusive garments and accessories. The cooperation and competition between the two continents transformed the fashion industry in the early and mid-twentieth century, producing a hybrid of art and commodity. Véronique Pouillard shows how the Paris–New York connection gave way in the 1960s to a network of widely distributed design and manufacturing centers. Since then, fashion has diversified. Tastes are no longer set by elites alone, but come from the street and from countercultures, and the business of fashion has transformed into a global enterprise.
An index to the American State Papers listing land grants and claims of early America between the years 1789-1837, listed by the individuals name.
The Art of Couture Sewing is a practical guide to custom techniques in the construction of couture garments. Beginning with a brief history of haute couture, the book covers tools and supplies then discusses matching fabrics with the appropriate needle, thread, pressing, and construction techniques. The types of closures, hems and finishes used in couture as well as basic draping techniques are discussed. The text is filled with step-by-step techniques along with clear instructions and illustrations. Nudelman covers many embellishment techniques, including beading, embroidering, and fine stitching with added sections on shisha, couching, eyelet overcasting and ribbon rosette stitches. Highly illustrated with photographs of couture designs as well as close-ups of finishes and details, The Art of Couture Sewing will inspire the design of high-quality garments using couture techniques. New to this edition ~Expanded coverage of corset history, design, and construction ~New chapter on constructing large skirts including trains, hoop skirts, and petticoats ~Updated fashion photographs and new illustrations throughout the book Features ~End-of-chapter biographies discuss notable designers and their couture techniques, such as Paul Poiret, Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Vera Wang ~More than 1,300 color photos and illustrations