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Lace, like silver or porcelain, can be classified by type and its date and place of origin often can be identified. But in the absence of marks giving maker or date, lace must be judged on its technical features and style. This new edition gathers fascinating and useful information in an easy to read and well-organised text covering needlepoint laces, embroideries, lace knitting and tatting, and bobbin laces made in Europe from the 16th century forward, including 19th century revivals. Each type is described and illustrated with hundreds of photographs and line drawings to show the technical characteristics and particular regard to the way one lace compares with another. A glossary, notes on cleaning, care, and conservation, and a price guide make this an essential reference for lace makers, designers, and lace collectors alike.
An account of the different styles of lace, their history, characteristics manufacture
Elizabeth Gaskell’s writings abound in references to a cultural materiality encompassing different types of fabric, stuffs, calicoes, chintzes and fine-point lace. These are not merely the motifs of the Realist genre but reveal a complex polysemy. Utilizing a metonymic examination of these tropes, this volume exposes the dramatic structural and socio-economic upheaval generated by industrialization, urbanization and the widening sphere of empire. The material evidence testifies to the technological and production innovations evolving diachronically for the period, and the evolution of Manchester as the industrial ‘Cottonpolis’ that clothed the world by the 1840s. This volume analyses Gaskell’s manipulation of the materiality, arguing its firm roots lie in the quotidian of women’s domestic and provincial life within the growing ranks of the middle classes. Exploring Gaskell’s tactile imagination, an embodied relationship with fabrics and sewing, a function of her daily life from an early age, this volume provides insight into the sensory aspects of cloth and its ability to stir affective responses, emotions and memories, whereby worn fabrics and even the absence of previous textile treasures, is poignant, recreating layers of recollection. This book aims to restore the pulsating, dynamic context of ordinary women’s dressed lives and presents innovative interpretations of Gaskell’s texts.