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On May 25, 1977 a small invited group of coastal oceanographers assembled at the Marine Sciences Research Center at Stony Brook for three days of intensive discussions in a cloistered setting. The purpose of this workshop was to "assess the state of the art, to ascertain priorities for future research and to formulate the theoretical, instrumen tal, experimental and logistical tools needed to attain those goals in the study of coastal oceanic* fronts. " Although the existence of oceanic fronts has been known for a long time, ocean frontology is experiencing rapid acceleration in the emergence of new concepts and methodology. The science is developing from the descriptive phase and many unsolved problems lie in the understanding and quantification of frontal dynamics. In turn, challenging questions need to be addressed on the controlling influence of the physics of fronts on the chemistry, biology, acoustics, and suspended particulate aggregations in these zones. Coastal fronts are very efficient at concentrating buoyant and suspended particulate matter inclUding toxic wastes; heavy metal concentrations in polluted coastal frontal zones have been measured to be as high as one to ten thousand times background. These zones are also regions of high biological productivity, and consequently frequented by both commercial and sports fishermen.
Describes the physics of the coastal ocean, for advanced students, researchers, urban planners, and environmental engineers.
Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material. Written for students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world.
Features concepts in coastal engineering and their application to coastal processes and disaster prevention works. This title describes basic concepts of coastal engineering, dealing mainly with wave-induced physical problems. It consists of the author's results of 30 years' scientific research on the progress of coastal sediment transport study.
Almost half the U.S. population lives along the coast. In another 20 years this population is expected to more than double in size. The unique weather and climate of the coastal zone, circulating pollutants, altering storms, changing temperature, and moving coastal currents affect air pollution and disaster preparedness, ocean pollution, and safeguarding near-shore ecosystems. Activities in commerce, industry, transportation, freshwater supply, safety, recreation, and national defense also are affected. The research community engaged in studies of coastal meteorology in recent years has made significant advancements in describing and predicting atmospheric properties along coasts. Coastal Meteorology reviews this progress and recommends research that would increase the value and application of what is known today.
Text on coastal engineering and oceanography covering theory and applications intended to mitigate shoreline erosion.
Like ocean beaches, sheltered coastal areas experience land loss from erosion and sea level rise. In response, property owners often install hard structures such as bulkheads as a way to prevent further erosion, but these structures cause changes in the coastal environment that alter landscapes, reduce public access and recreational opportunities, diminish natural habitats, and harm species that depend on these habitats for shelter and food. Mitigating Shore Erosion Along Sheltered Coasts recommends coastal planning efforts and permitting policies to encourage landowners to use erosion control alternatives that help retain the natural features of coastal shorelines.
Tide gauges show that global sea level has risen about 7 inches during the 20th century, and recent satellite data show that the rate of sea-level rise is accelerating. As Earth warms, sea levels are rising mainly because ocean water expands as it warms; and water from melting glaciers and ice sheets is flowing into the ocean. Sea-level rise poses enormous risks to the valuable infrastructure, development, and wetlands that line much of the 1,600 mile shoreline of California, Oregon, and Washington. As those states seek to incorporate projections of sea-level rise into coastal planning, they asked the National Research Council to make independent projections of sea-level rise along their coasts for the years 2030, 2050, and 2100, taking into account regional factors that affect sea level. Sea-Level Rise for the Coasts of California, Oregon, and Washington: Past, Present, and Future explains that sea level along the U.S. west coast is affected by a number of factors. These include: climate patterns such as the El Niño, effects from the melting of modern and ancient ice sheets, and geologic processes, such as plate tectonics. Regional projections for California, Oregon, and Washington show a sharp distinction at Cape Mendocino in northern California. South of that point, sea-level rise is expected to be very close to global projections. However, projections are lower north of Cape Mendocino because the land is being pushed upward as the ocean plate moves under the continental plate along the Cascadia Subduction Zone. However, an earthquake magnitude 8 or larger, which occurs in the region every few hundred to 1,000 years, would cause the land to drop and sea level to suddenly rise.