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Little is known of how wind stress is imparted to the sea surface and how this stress generates both waves and ocean currents. Most wave studies have concentrated upon measuring free surface fluctuations and have avoided the examination of the dynamic regime beneath the free surface of the waves. The work reported herein deals with making direct Eulerian measurements of the complex motions within the wave regime. A historical review and a discussion of the problems of measuring turbulent and oscillatory motions are presented. The development of wave meter instrumentation is discussed. Various calibration techniques were used, including a wind tunnel, and rotating boom and towing tank systems. The methods of data processing, using high speed digital computers, are presented. The study provides evidence that the complex motions at the sea surface can and should be measured. With the relatively crude instrumentation, measurements were obtained which provided meaningful information on the momentum and energy transfer within the sea surface layer. Improvement of instruments and techniques can only result in a better understanding of the energetics of the ocean surface layer. (Author).
Ducted impeller wave meters were suspended from the Buzzards Bay Entrance Light Station to measure particle motions in wind waves at various depths beneath the free surface. The motions recorded display quasisinusoidal oscillations having an approximate 90 degrees phase shift between the horizontal and vertical velocity components that lie normal to the wave crests. The wave kinetic energy associated with the variances in the wave motions shows a strong depth attenuation, but this attenuation is not as great as the exponential energy decrease exhibited by a classical trochoidal wave. Integrals of the wave kinetic energy contained in the water column were approximately equal to the estimated potential energy of the waves. (Author).