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Cina Peranakan merupakan sekumpulan subetnik Cina di negara ini. Mereka memperlihatkan identiti yang amat berbeza daripada orang Cina jati. Identiti mereka terdiri daripada identiti Cina yang diwarisi daripada generasi awal dan identiti yang dipupuk menerusi akulturasi oleh penduduk tempatan. Kebanyakan kajian tentang Cina Peranakan di negara ini tertumpu kepada Cina Peranakan yang menetap di pantai barat Semenanjung Malaysia, terutamanya Baba dan Nyonya dari negeri Melaka dan Pulau Pinang. Padahal, terdapat juga sekumpulan Cina Peranakan yang besar yang menetap di pantai timur Semenanjung Malaysia, terutamanya negeri Kelantan. Malangnya, Cina Peranakan Kelantan tidak banyak dikaji oleh sarjana sedangkan amalan budaya mereka agak berbeza daripada Cina Peranakan yang menetap di pantai barat dan wajar diberikan perhatian yang setimpal. Lagipun, kehidupan sosiobudaya mereka menyumbang kepada pengkayaan sosiobudaya negeri Kelantan. Monograf ini mengkaji Cina Peranakan Kelantan dengan memilih Cina Peranakan Kampung Pasir Parit sebagai satu kajian kes atas dua sebab utama. Pertama, mereka merupakan kumpulan Cina Peranakan yang terbesar di negeri Kelantan. Kedua, mereka tidak diserap oleh masyarakat Cina jati dan masih mengekalkan kebanyakan identiti Peranakan mereka.
Monograf ini meninjau budaya makanan dua kumpulan Cina Peranakan yang menetap di pantai timur Semenanjung Malaysia, iaitu Cina Peranakan Tirok di negeri Terengganu dan Cina Peranakan Pasir Parit di negeri Kelantan. Tumpuan utamanya adalah terhadap dua jenis makanan yang memperlihatkan kedinamikan kedua-dua kumpulan Cina Peranakan ini menyelaraskan identiti mereka, iaitu identiti Melayu yang dipupuk menerusi proses akulturasi dan identiti asal yang diwarisi daripada generasi awal. Dua jenis makanan tersebut ialah makanan harian dan makanan upacara penyembahan nenek moyang. Dari segi makanan harian, kedua-dua kumpulan Cina Peranakan ini amat dipengaruhi oleh budaya makanan penduduk Melayu tempatan. Dengan kata lain, makanan harian mereka menonjolkan proses lokalisasi makanan yang cukup ketara. Walau bagaimanapun, makanan harian yang disediakan oleh mereka itu turut terdiri daripada makanan hibrid yang mengadunkan budaya makanan yang berbeza. Biarpun makanan hibrid ini hanya disediakan sekali sekala, ia tetap merupakan satu kontradiksi dalaman kepada budaya makanan harian mereka, lebih-lebih lagi makanan hibrid tersebut rata-rata membabitkan penggunaan bahan masakan yang istimewa kepada orang Cina tetapi dilarang oleh agama Islam. Sementara itu, makanan upacara penyembahan nenek moyang yang disediakan oleh mereka itu bertujuan untuk memperkukuh ikatan primordial mereka dan oleh itu, makanan tersebut terdiri daripada makanan yang sama ada memperlihatkan identiti makanan Cina yang ketara atau simbolisme makanan yang dapat mendukung pengekalan dan kesinambungan salasilah keturunan dan persanakan keluarga mereka. Namun, terdapat juga kontradiksi dalaman dari segi penyediaan makanan ini kerana sesetengah makanan yang disediakan oleh mereka itu terdiri daripada makanan tempatan dan makanan hibrid yang menyebabkan penghakisan identiti primordial mereka. Pendek kata, kedua-dua jenis makanan ini menonjolkan kekompleksitian Cina Peranakan Tirok dan Pasir Parit menyelaraskan identiti mereka menerusi budaya makanan mereka yang bersifat silang budaya itu.
Food is an important cultural marker of identity in contemporary Asian societies, and can provide a medium for the understanding of social relations, family and kinship, class and consumption, gender ideology, and cultural symbolism. However, a truly comprehensive view of food cannot neglect the politics of food production, in particular, how, when, from where and even why different kinds of food are produced, prepared and supplied. Food and Foodways in Asia is an anthropological inquiry providing rich ethnographic description and analysis of food production as it interacts with social and political complexities in Asia’s diverse cultures. Prominent anthropologists examine how food is related to ethnic identity and boundary formation, consumerism and global food distribution, and the invention of local cuisine in the context of increasing cultural contact. With chapters ranging from the invention of 'local food' for tourism development, to Asia's contribution to ‘world cuisine,’ Food and Foodways in Asia will be a fascinating read for anyone interested in the anthropology of food and/or Asian studies.
In The Making of Macau’s Fusion Cuisine: From Family Table to World Stage, Annabel Jackson argues that Macanese cuisine cannot be seen as a unique product of Portuguese colonialism in southern China. Instead, it needs to be understood in the context of Portugal’s culinary footprint in Asia and beyond. She contends that the culinary cultures of other Portuguese colonies in Asia and Africa also influenced the cuisine in Macau. Macanese cuisine plays a role in evoking a sense of Macanese identity within Macau as well as in the Macanese diaspora. As the Macanese have increasingly defined themselves as an ethnically and culturally distinct group, their cuisine has growingly been seen as a critical identifier of cohesion and difference. The book shows how Macanese cuisine is moving from being an everyday production of food in a domestic setting to something more symbolic and ceremonial. It also argues that the practice of recipe sharing, historically controversial among the Macanese, is now viewed as an important process. Drawing on information gathered through interviews and surveys, the book is a fascinating study of the history and development of Macanese cuisine, one of the oldest fusion cuisines in Asia. ‘Annabel Jackson has more than enough knowledge to share with the readers many insights and interesting stories, which are embedded in history and cultural interactions among various ethnic groups in Macau and beyond. Given the fact that Macau has become the city of gastronomy, this book brings in rich information and knowledge for locals and visitors to “taste” and to remember.’ —Sidney Cheung, The Chinese University of Hong Kong ‘Annabel Jackson’s study of the development of Macanese cuisine and its role in evoking a sense of Macanese identity within Macau and the Macanese diaspora should contribute to the growing interest in the study of food and foodways within cultural and postcolonial studies. Written in a lively and engaging way, it achieves a good balance between the use of primary sources and theoretical references to buttress its arguments.’ —David Brookshaw, University of Bristol
In this mix of memoir, essay and nature writing, Wong Yoon Wah evokes the beauty and seduction of the tropical rainforest and rubber plantations of his childhood in Malaya. He examines what surrounds us: the fruits we grow, the food we eat, the trees and animals that thrive in our midst. Along the way, we gain fascinating insights: how thunder tea rice acquired its name; how early settlers used the rain tree to tell time; how the behaviour of ants can tell us when a monsoon is about to arrive. Both personal and informative, this selection of Wong’s essays is a stunning re-addition to the creative non-fiction landscape.
A simple spice can open up meditations on love and life. In food, we find connection to one another, like a homesick student searching for the perfect cup of teh tarik. Yet, paradoxically, food is a polarizer, like a Muslim convert craving a pork bun. From tracing the origins of our hawker food to a love letter for Ipoh told in local favourites, these works are an eclectic mix of the Malaysian obsession with food. For all our differences, Malaysians find commonality in one thing: we want you to be well-fed. Savour these small packages of good writing, covering a wide array of foods to please every palate, from laksa and sambal telur belimbing to french fries and Bru coffee. Come for the carbs. Stay for the whole menu. Featuring work by award-winning author Elaine Chiew, DK Dutt Memorial Award founder Dipika Mukherjee, and celebrated professor and poet Dr Malachi Edwin Vethamani.