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"Although less well-known today, European jewellery - jewellery worn with traditional or national costume - was highly fashionable in nineteenth-century Britain. This book draws together a wide selection of beautiful pieces, originating from across the continent - from Iceland in the north to Cyprus off the shores of Asia - to demonstrate the wonderful variety of this jewellery. Spectacular examples include gilded Norwegian wedding crowns and extravagant golden crosses of Normandy, ornate earrings of Spain and Italy, and imposing filigree clasps from the Balkans. The book illustrates how the jewellery was originally worn with traditional dress, and explores its popularity in the nineteenth century."--
La Bijouterie Française au XIXe Siècle by Henri Vever is an indispensable survey of the jewelry produced in Paris from the Empire to the Art Nouveau period. Since it was first published in three volumes nearly one hundred years ago, it has become the definitive source of information for the jewelry profession as well as for those who simply revel in the intricate beauty of fabulous jewels. Now, for the first time, the entire text is available in English in a single volume. Vever, himself a highly accomplished jeweler, compiled a study that charts the histories of both the humblest and the most famous of his colleagues, including Bapst, Boucheron, Falize, Fontenay, Pouquet, Froment-Meurice, Gaillard, Lalique, Mellerio, and Wièse. This vivid contemporary account is full of data gathered directly from the jewelers themselves or from their descendants. It contains fascinating anecdotes concerning Imperial and Royal commissions together with entertaining tales of workshop practices. In crediting the designers, chasers, engravers, and enamelers who collaborated with the famous jewelry houses, Vever acknowledged the talents of technicians who often worked anonymously. In identifying unrecorded craftsmen, he made his book a unique document. Political, economic, and industrial developments are discussed, as are their repercussions on society and fashion. With his intimate knowledge of techniques, Vever was able to analyze changes that were continually taking place in manufacturing processes. He also recorded the changing styles in jewelry and their sources of inspiration, ranging from the Antique to the Orient.
This book highlights pieces of jewellery from ancient and modern cultures in every part of the globe. Of special interest are the objects that appear in paintings and other works of art: jewel-studded gowns, glittering Renaissance brooches and an Egyptian beaded collar are among the featured works from the "Metropolitan Museum"'s collection. Necklaces, earrings, rings and bracelets fill this book and also included are objects of religious significance, military honours and other kinds of personal decoration. The captions relate anecdotes concerning the artists and wearers and describe the history and style of the jewellery pictured.
Here is the first book to focus exclusively on enameled jewelry, an integral, important, and innovative part of world-wide jewelry design at the turn of the 20th century. Enameling techniques and the symbolism found in Victorian, Art Nouveau, and Arts and Crafts jewelry design during the nineteenth century and later are explained and illustrated. Edwardian and Art Deco styles, as well as important jewelry designers are included. Over 450 color photographs illustrate this important reference for jewelry designers, historians, and collectors.
During the nineteenth century in Rome, three generations of the Castellani family created what they called “Italian archaeological jewelry,” which was inspired by the precious Etruscan, Roman, Greek, and Byzantine antiquities being excavated at the time. The Castellani jewelry consisted of finely wrought gold that was often combined with delicate and colorful mosaics, carved gemstones, or enamel. This magnificent book is the first to display and discuss the jewelry and the family behind it. International scholars discuss the life and work of the Castellani, revealing the wide-ranging aspects of the family’s artistic and cultural activities. They describe the making and marketing of the jewelry, the survey collection of all periods of Italian jewelry on display in the Castellani’s palatial store, and the Castellani’s activities in the trade of antiquities, as they sponsored excavations, and restored, dealt, and exhibited antiques. They also recount the family’s involvement in the cultural and political life of their city and country.
Superb sourcebook of rare ornamentation includes meticulously detailed narrative and 400 illustrations depicting priceless brooches, necklaces, clasps, gold padlock, reliquary pendants, much more.
A fascinating text explains the many popular nineteenth century traditions associated with death and mourning. Over 300 color photographs display jewelry, photography, clothing, customs, and symbolism. Over 70 pages of a Victorian hair jewelry catalog are included.
"The 'age of Victoria' is taken in its widest sense to encompass jewellery made throughout Europe and America, displayed at the great international exhibitions and distributed through foreign trade, illustrated publications and a burgeoning tourist industry ... The focus of the book is on the attitudes of owners to their jewellery and the symbolic weight that it was expected to carry. Rather than concentrating on the major figures at the top end of the jewellery trade, or indeed offering a chronological survey of the development of jewellery styles and fashions, it is oriented towards the social aspects of owning, wearing and displaying jewellery. The authors show, for example, how novelists use jewellery to add a moral or metaphorical dimension to a character, while jewels depicted in portraits would often have disclosed multiple messages which could be immediately decoded by the viewer. The achievements of science, the fascination with nature and the Victorian sense of humour are all embodied in jewellery. Topics discussed in depth include the importance of jewellery in the life of the Queen herself, jewellery and dress, the language of jewellery, the cult of novelty, the importance of nationalism in the revival of historical styles, and the contribution of archaeological discoveries."--Publisher's description.
The dramatic evolution of 20th century European jewelry design, documenting the innovative trends, sources, and makers. Artists' limited-edition creations, as well as fashion and costume jewelry, are explored through the well-researched text, over 700 wonderful photos and vintage prints. Biographical sketches are provided for the artists and couturiers who worked closely with the fashion designers.