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* Portrays a history of 90 years of Himalayan climbing and exploration, using the best possible sketch maps from the Himalayan JournalThe last 90 years have been a glorious period in Himalayan exploration. As explorers from across the globe have attempted to discover the Himalaya, the Himalayan Club has played a pioneering role in chronicling their expeditions for posterity. The accompanying maps, from the Himalayan Journal, are a historical treasure capturing various facets of exploration over time. Legendary explorations like Shipton and Tilman's route into Nanda Devi Sanctuary, Maurice Herzog's Annapurna ascent - the first to scale an 8,000m peak - and Sir Chris Bonington's exploring routes to Menluntse continue to arouse fascination to this day.The last decade or two have witnessed fascinating explorations - trails to complete the century-old quest to trace the route of the mighty Brahmaputra river by Harish Kapadia, exploring the unknown Kunzang valley by Group Capt. V.K. Sashindran, ascents and accident on Panch Chuli by A.V. Saunders and an ascent of Nilkanth by the west ridge by Martin Moran and many others. With some of the routes and climbs documented here yet to be repeated, this book is a tribute to the rich history of exploration and a treasure trove for aficionados. Contents: Kashmir - East Karakoram; Karakoram; Himachal Pradesh; Uttarakhand; Nepal - Tibet; Sikkim - Arunachal Pradesh - Bhutan.
In the first comprehensive history of Himalayan mountaineering in 50 years, the authors offer detailed, original accounts of the most significant climbs since the 1890s, and they compellingly evoke the social and cultural worlds that gave rise to those expeditions.
In a startling look at the classic Annapurna—the most famous book about mountaineering—David Roberts discloses what really happened on the legendary expedition to the Himalayan peak. In June 1950, a team of mountaineers was the first to conquer an 8,000-meter peak. Maurice Herzog, the leader of the expedition, became a national hero in France, and Annapurna, his account of the historic ascent, has long been regarded as the ultimate tale of courage and cooperation under the harshest of conditions. In True Summit, David Roberts presents a fascinating revision of this classic tale. Using newly available documents and information gleaned from a rare interview with Herzog (the only climber on the team still living), Roberts shows that the expedition was torn by dissent. As he re-creates the actual events, Roberts lays bare Herzog's self-serving determination and bestows long-delayed credit to the most accomplished and unsung heroes. These new revelations will inspire young adventurers and change forever the way we think about this victory in the mountains and the climbers who achieved it.
Diana Lange's patient investigations have, in this wonderful piece of detective work, solved the mysteries of six extraordinary panoramic maps of routes across Tibet and the Himalayas, clearly hand-drawn in the late 1850s by a local artist, known as the British Library's Wise Collection. Diana Lange now reveals not only the previously unknown identity of the Scottish colonial official who commissioned the maps from a Tibetan Buddhist lama, but also the story of how the Wise Collection came to be in the British Library. The result is both a spectacular illustrated ethnographic atlas and a unique compendium of knowledge concerning the mid-19th century Tibetan world, as well as a remarkable account of an academic journey of discovery. It will entertain and inform anyone with an interest in this fascinating region. This large format book is lavishly illustrated in colour and includes four separate large foldout maps.
The soaring peaks of the greatest mountain range on Earth have long drawn visitors from around the globe, and one of the most famous of the 19th century was British adventurer and scholar Laurence Waddell, who spent most of a decade and a half exploring the nations that cling to the sides of the mighty mountains, learning the ways of their peoples, and sharing his experiences with Western readers. Here, in this 1899 classic of Himalayan travel, Waddell introduces us to the challenges of traveling in the region, takes us on visits to Nepalese and Tibetan tea gardens, journeys to monasteries, palaces, and temples, and much more. Beautiful photos and drawings complement Waddell's exciting and gripping tales-he offers some of the first "evidence" for the mysterious creatures known as "yeti," for instance-and make this an essential work for anyone drawn to the dangerous beauty of the Himalayas. British archaeologist and Orientalist LAURENCE AUSTINE WADDELL (1854-1938) also wrote The Buddhism of Tibet or Lamaism (1894) and Lhasa and Its Mysteries (1905).
Originally men feared the mountains as the home of gods or dragons. The notion of climbing mountains for pure pleasure was slow to take hold, despite the intrepid ascent of Mont Aiguille by a fifteenth-century French courtier. For all its cloak of scientific respectability, the race for Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in western Europe, held all the seeds of later mountaineering controversy - sponsorship, competition, mixed motives, chauvinism, accusations of bad faith, and unresolved recrimination. But it was a beginning. By the middle of the next century all the great Alpine summits had been climbed and, on the Matterhorn in 1865, climbing had suffered its first sensational disaster. Queen Victoria wondered if she should put a stop to it. Fortunately, she was counselled otherwise. In Hold the Heights, Walt Unsworth presents a comprehensive history of world mountaineering, from the first recorded ascent to the conquests of Everest and Nanga Parbat in 1953 - milestone ascents that ushered in new eras of exploration. Beginning with a major reassessment of the late-Victorian Alpine Club worthies, Unsworth then traces how the initiative passed from the British pioneers to European climbers, as elegance of route and rock-climbing skill came to the fore and mountaineering shifted from stamina to athleticism. He examines the emergence of technical climbing from the Dolomites, the influence of the Munich School through the thirties, the assaults on the great north faces by climbers whose brilliance was rewarded with medals from Hitler. Beyond Europe, the exploratory style of climbing favored by the British held sway much longer in the great ranges of the Himalaya and the Karakoram, asMallory, Irvine, Mummery and the like lost their lives in contests against the unknown effects of high-altitude on man. From this vast frontier comes the story of the British obsession with Everest, the Germans' with Nanga Parbat, and the exploits of the Italians and Americans on K2, as Unsworth traces the challenges to the world's 8000-metre peaks through those contrasting first ascents of Everest and Nanga Parbat within weeks of each other. At the same time, quite different methods of climbing had been in the making in North America. The foundations of mountaineering in this country - on the volcanoes of the Cascades, the crags of the Tetons, the glaciers of McKinley and St. Elias, the tilted strata of the Rockies, the great, granite pinnacles of Yosemite - developed independent of Alpine influences. These ascents owed nothing to the traditions of the Alpine Club or to Swiss guides. Says Unsworth, "Apart from the work of the founding fathers during the Golden Age of alpinism, this separate American development was the single most important event in the history of mountaineering". Unsworth literally covers the globe in the text, ranging from Greenland and Norway to the Pyrenees and the Tatras, from Chimborazo to Waddington, Kilimanjaro, the Caucasus and Mount Cook. He brings to life a vast gallery of legendary climbers as diverse as Crowley and Hunt, as revered as Welzenbach, Merkl, Underhill and Wiessner. But the real strength of this work is the way in which the author looks behind the mere chronology to relate climbing to the changing social ethos out of which it sprang.
Winner of the 2020 National Outdoor Book Award for Best History/Biography A saga of survival, technological innovation, and breathtaking human physical achievement -- all set against the backdrop of a world headed toward war -- that became one of the most compelling international dramas of the 20th century. As tension steadily rose between European powers in the 1930s, a different kind of battle was already raging across the Himalayas. Teams of mountaineers from Great Britain, Nazi Germany, and the United States were all competing to be the first to climb the world's highest peaks, including Mount Everest and K2. Unlike climbers today, they had few photographs or maps, no properly working oxygen systems, and they wore leather boots and cotton parkas. Amazingly, and against all odds, they soon went farther and higher than anyone could have imagined. And as they did, their story caught the world's attention. The climbers were mobbed at train stations, and were featured in movies and plays. James Hilton created the mythical land of Shangri-La in Lost Horizon, while an English eccentric named Maurice Wilson set out for Tibet in order to climb Mount Everest alone. And in the darkened corridors of the Third Reich, officials soon discovered the propaganda value of planting a Nazi flag on top of the world's highest mountains Set in London, New York, Germany, and in India, China, and Tibet, The World Beneath Their Feet is a story not only of climbing and mountain climbers, but also of passion and ambition, courage and folly, tradition and innovation, tragedy and triumph. Scott Ellsworth tells a rollicking, real-life adventure story that moves seamlessly from the streets of Manhattan to the footlights of the West End, deadly avalanches on Nanga Parbat, rioting in the Kashmir, and the wild mountain dreams of a New Zealand beekeeper named Edmund Hillary and a young Sherpa runaway called Tenzing Norgay. Climbing the Himalayas was the Greatest Generation's moonshot-one that was clouded by the onset of war and then, incredibly, fully accomplished. A gritty, fascinating history that promises to enrapture fans of Hampton Sides, Erik Larson, Jon Krakauer, and Laura Hillenbrand, The World Beneath Their Feet brings this forgotten story back to life.
Includes the Proceedings of the Royal geographical society, formerly pub. separately.
'It's a preposterous plan. Still, if you do get up it, I think it'll be the hardest thing that's been done in the Himalayas.' So spoke Chris Bonington when Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker presented him with their plan to tackle the unclimbed West Wall of Changabang - the Shining Mountain - in 1976. Bonington's was one of the more positive responses; most felt the climb impossibly hard, especially for a two-man, lightweight expedition. This was, after all, perhaps the most fearsome and technically challenging granite wall in the Garhwal Himalaya and an ascent - particularly one in a lightweight style - would be more significant than anything done on Everest at the time. The idea had been Joe Tasker's. He had photographed the sheer, shining, white granite sweep of Changabang's West Wall on a previous expedition and asked Pete to return with him the following year. Tasker contributes a second voice throughout Boardman's story, which starts with acclimatisation, sleeping in a Salford frozen food store, and progresses through three nights of hell, marooned in hammocks during a storm, to moments of exultation at the variety and intricacy of the superb, if punishingly difficult, climbing. It is a story of how climbing a mountain can become an all-consuming goal, of the tensions inevitable in forty days of isolation on a two-man expedition; as well as a record of the moment of joy upon reaching the summit ridge against all odds. First published in 1978, The Shining Mountain is Peter Boardman's first book. It is a very personal and honest story that is also amusing, lucidly descriptive, very exciting, and never anything but immensely readable. It was awarded the John Llewelyn Rhys Prize for literature in 1979, winning wide acclaim. His second book, Sacred Summits, was published shortly after his death in 1982. Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker died on Everest in 1982, whilst attempting a new and unclimbed line. Both men were superb mountaineers and talented writers. Their literary legacy lives on through the Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature, established by family and friends in 1983 and presented annually to the author or co-authors of an original work which has made an outstanding contribution to mountain literature. For more information about the Boardman Tasker Prize, visit: www.boardmantasker.com