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The motion of water on a uniformly sloping beach, just after a bore reaches the shore, is studied. The shllow-water equations are used to fomulate a singular hyperbolic problem, which is solved by the help of RIEMANN'S Method and of the trutural theory of quasilinear hyperbolic equations developed in gas dynmics. The shore line is found to advance suddenly with non-zero velocity and then to move up and down the beach with constant, negative acceleration. The solution s shown to contain limit lines indiating a rather unexpeted, secondary bore in the back-wsh. (Author).
This is volume three of a three volume set.The Shore Protection Manual is in three volumes. Volume I describes the physical environment in the coastal zone starting with an introduction of coastal engineering, continuing with discussions of mechanics of wave motion, wave and water level predictions, and finally littoral processes.Volume II translates the interaction of the physical environment and coastal structures into design parameters for use in the solution of coastal engineering problems. It discusses planning, analysis, structural features, and structural design as related to physical factors, and shows an example of a coastal engineering problem which utilizes the technical content of material presented in all three volumes.Volume III contains four appendixes including a glossary of coastal engineering terms, a list of symbols, tables and plates, and a subject index.