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Men's tailoring in Italy is a veritable art tradition, the product of a long legacy of elegance, taste and appreciation. In fact, made-to-measure garments and shoes entail painstaking measuring and a transformation of these measurements into a perfect object, thanks to the skilled craftsmanship of tailors and the use of refined textiles. For those who know how and where to look, each garment speaks to the secrets and history of the place where it was made and customized. Italian Tailoring offers an insider's view into the world of Italian tailoring and its key protagonists. Journalist Yoshimi Hasegawa, an expert in European tailoring, presents an extraordinarily stylish travelogue, surveying tailoring across the country. Beginning at the beginning--with the famed Vitale Barberis Canonico fabric mill--this publication profiles 28 historic tailor shops in Italy and the famed names behind them (from Donnadio to Musella; Liverano & Liverano to Sartoria Napoletana; Rubinacci and Attolini to Caraceni, Ciardi and Pirozzi). Italian Tailoring leads the reader on a journey through Italy, from north to south, in search of the haute tailoring and the practitioners who have shaped the world-famous Italian style.
London may have Savile Row and Paris its luxury houses, but nowhere can compete with the essence of Italy's nonchalant elegance: sprezzatura. This book presents the most in-depth look at the designers, tailors and artisans who for generations have defined the very notion of Italian style. From such fabled names as Rubinacci and Kiton to highly sought-after global brands like Zegna, more than fifty iconic Italian menswear houses are featured for their individual style and commitment to upholding the values of quality and timelessness. Featuring lavish photographs, with close-ups of subtle, exquisite details, most taken specially for this publication, The Italian Gentleman explores the world behind the finished garments - the ateliers and hidden shops where legends are born. Including iconic brands alongside fabric mills, shirting, accessories and shoemaking, this timely publication is a tribute to true Italian style with today's modern man in mind.
Since its first publication, Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear has been the authoritative resource for custom hand tailoring production. This new edition focuses on updating these timeless construction techniques through extensive use of all new photography and digital illustrations to enhance the clarity of each process. The enduring art of tailoring and the nature of bespoke tailoring processes means that the techniques presented in the first edition remain as relevant for today's designers as ever. The new edition is updated with information on measuring, alternative approached in use today and 748 all new photographs and illustrations. It also includes a brief overview of contemporary tailoring and the identifying key components of luxury tailoring from Britain, Italy and the Unites States. This introduction also familiarizes the reader with ways in which traditional production methods have been used in the development of luxury ready-to-wear men's tailoring. The text is ideal for students with basic design, patternmaking and sewing skills of at least an intermediate level for courses including Tailoring Techniques, Menswear Design, Couture Sewing, Intermediate or Advanced Construction Techniques, Costume Construction and Fashion Design Studios. Instructor's Guide available.
Om italiensk mode og modedesignere fra 1945 til i dag
In a new compact edition, a luxurious celebration of the elegant craftsmanship behind the timeless French men’s fashion and lifestyle labels. Home of haute couture and the world’s leading fashion houses, Paris and its inhabitants represent sophistication and refinement to the rest of the world. Debonair Parisian men continue to participate in a centuries-long tradition of sartorial craftsmanship and quality. In its newly accessible compact edition, The Parisian Gentleman is like a dream shopping excursion to the leading men’s style-makers, from hidden ateliers and little- known studios to internationally renowned labels such as shirtmakers Charvet, shoemakers Berluti, and the recently revived trunk-makers Moynat. The stories behind each house, and the creative minds and artisans who give each brand its unique identity, bring the clothes alive, capturing an unceasing dedication to quality in an era overrun with new, mass-produced trends. Author Hugo Jacomet’s portraits of these often-inaccessible marques (or brands) are intimate and illuminating, thanks to his personal connections to many of the leading figures. His text is accompanied by beautifully shot photographs of the designers, studios, garments, and locations, the majority of which were taken exclusively for this book.
This rigorously compiled A-Z volume offers rich, readable coverage of the diverse forms of post-1945 Italian culture. With over 900 entries by international contributors, this volume is genuinely interdisciplinary in character, treating traditional political, economic, and legal concerns, with a particular emphasis on neglected areas of popular culture. Entries range from short definitions, histories or biographies to longer overviews covering themes, movements, institutions and personalities, from advertising to fascism, and Pirelli to Zeffirelli. The Encyclopedia aims to inform and inspire both teachers and students in the following fields: *Italian language and literature *Arts, Humanities and Social Sciences *European Studies *Media and Cultural Studies *Business and Management *Art and Design It is extensively cross-referenced, has a thematic contents list and suggestions for further reading.
The “italian style” is the aspect that makes italian products immediately recognizable and the junction between culture and italian economy. In this book the author describes the fundamental components that define italian style in manufacturing, work and economics and the cultural ans social origins of the attention to aesthetic results and quality as an important component of italian style. Fashion, food, furniture, automation and the many aspects of italian economy, with the importance of the design, reveal a lifestyle that shows us how another style of consumption is possibile, linked to quality and durability and not to quantity and waste. The relation between economy and culture it allows us to describe a society in which the values of tradition are maintained and meet innovation in a sustainable and generative way of quality.
How do immigrants and their children forge their identities in a new land—and how does the ethnic culture they create thrive in the larger society? Making Italian America brings together new scholarship on the cultural history of consumption, immigration, and ethnic marketing to explore these questions by focusing on the case of an ethnic group whose material culture and lifestyles have been central to American life: Italian Americans. As embodied in fashion, film, food, popular music, sports, and many other representations and commodities, Italian American identities have profoundly fascinated, disturbed, and influenced American and global culture. Discussing in fresh ways topics as diverse as immigrant women’s fashion, critiques of consumerism in Italian immigrant radicalism, the Italian American influence in early rock ’n’ roll, ethnic tourism in Little Italy, and Guido subculture, Making Italian America recasts Italian immigrants and their children as active consumers who, since the turn of the twentieth century, have creatively managed to articulate relations of race, gender, and class and create distinctive lifestyles out of materials the marketplace offered to them. The success of these mostly working-class people in making their everyday culture meaningful to them as well as in shaping an ethnic identity that appealed to a wider public of shoppers and spectators looms large in the political history of consumption. Making Italian America appraises how immigrants and their children redesigned the market to suit their tastes and in the process made Italian American identities a lure for millions of consumers. Fourteen essays explore Italian American history in the light of consumer culture, across more than a century-long intense movement of people, goods, money, ideas, and images between Italy and the United States—a diasporic exchange that has transformed both nations. Simone Cinotto builds an imaginative analytical framework for understanding the ways in which ethnic and racial groups have shaped their collective identities and negotiated their place in the consumers’ emporium and marketplace. Grounded in the new scholarship in transnational U.S. history and the transfer of cultural patterns, Making Italian America illuminates the crucial role that consumption has had in shaping the ethnic culture and diasporic identities of Italians in America. It also illustrates vividly why and how those same identities—incorporated in commodities, commercial leisure, and popular representations—have become the object of desire for millions of American and global consumers.