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A complete introduction to the psychology and science of perfume, with instructions on using and layering scent, and making your own perfumed sprays, oils, and bath and body products. A complete introduction to the psychology and science of perfume, with instructions on using and layering scent, and making your own perfumed sprays, oils, and bath and body products. At a time when advertising bombards us with the hard sell for the latest celebrity perfumes, fragrance expert Karen Gilbert shows how to create and blend your very own signature scent. Perfume: The Art and Craft of Fragrance introduces us to the psychology of smell and explains how fragrance can influence our moods and behavior, and gives a brief overview of perfume through the ages. A key chapter teaches you how to train your nose to recognize the five different fragrance families (floral, oriental, citrus, chypre, fougère), and how to identify the top, middle, and base notes of a perfume. Once you have understood the basics of how to build a fragrance, learn how to layer scents by creating perfume oils, sprays, and solids, plus scented bath and body products and home fragrance sprays from the easy step-by-step recipes. Illustrated throughout with charming artworks and photographs, Perfume: The Art and Craft of Fragrance is the perfect introduction to the art and romance of creating perfume.
A text/reference regarding the structure and function of components used in perfume development and the process of developing perfumes. Covers gas chromatography, mass spectrometry and a host of other analytical techniques; the esthetics and techniques of perfume development; the manifold and ever-changing safety-related requirements of countries and customers; concerns about the environmental impact of materials and impurities which affect the perfumer's work.
An artisan perfumer reveals a lost art and its mysterious, sensual history. For centuries, people have taken what seems to be an instinctive pleasure in rubbing scents into their skin. Perfume has helped them to pray, to heal, and to make love. And as long as there has been perfume, there have been perfumers, or rather the priests, shamans, and apothecaries who were their predecessors. Yet, in many ways, perfumery is a lost art, its creative and sensual possibilities eclipsed by the synthetic ingredients of which contemporary perfumes are composed, which have none of the subtlety and complexity of essences derived from natural substances, nor their lush histories. Essence and Alchemy resurrects the social and metaphysical legacy that is entwined with the evolution of perfumery, from the dramas of the spice trade to the quests of the alchemists to whom today's perfumers owe a philosophical as well as a practical debt. Mandy Aftel tracks scent through the boudoir and the bath and into the sanctums of worship, offering insights on the relationship of scent to sex, solitude, and the soul. Along the way, she imparts instruction in the art of perfume compositions, complete with recipes, guiding the reader in a process of transformation of materials that continues to follow the alchemical dictum solve et coagula (dissolve and combine) and is itself aesthetically and spiritually transforming.
To women the whole world over, perfume means glamour, and in the world of perfume, Jean-Claude Ellena is a superstar. In this one-of-a-kind book, the master himself takes you through the doors of his laboratory and explains the process of creating precious fragrances, revealing the key methods and recipes involved in this mysterious alchemy. Perfume is a cutthroat, secretive multibillion-dollar industry, and Ellena provides an insider’s tour, guiding us from initial inspiration through the mixing of essences and synthetic elements, to the deluxe packaging and marketing in elegant boutiques worldwide, and even the increasingly complicated safety standards that are set in motion for each bottle of perfume that is manufactured. He explains how the sense of smell works, using a palette of fragrant materials, and how he personally chooses and composes a perfume. He also reveals his unique way of creating a fragrance by playing with our olfactory memories in order to make the perfume seductive and desired by men and women the world over. Perfume illuminates the world of scent and manufactured desire by a perfumer who has had clients the likes of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, and Hermés.
Modern perfumery is a blend of art, science and technology, with chemistry being the central science involved. The Chemistry of Fragrances aims to educate and entertain, and inform the audience of the very latest chemistry, techniques and tools applied to fragrance creativity. Beginning with the history of perfumes, which goes back over fifty thousand years, the book goes on to discuss the structure of the Perfume Industry today. The focus then turns to an imaginary brief to create a perfume, and the response to it, including that of the chemist and the creative perfumer. Consumer research, toxicological concerns, and the use of the electronic nose are some of the topics discussed on this journey of discovery. Written by respected experts in their fields, this unique book gives an insider view of ""mixing molecules"" from behind the portals of modern-day alchemy. It will be enjoyed by chemists and marketeers at all levels.
Winner of the 2016 Perfumed Plume Award The “Alice Waters of American natural perfume” (indieperfume.com) and author of the Art of Flavor celebrates our most potent sense, through five rock stars of the fragrant world Mandy Aftel is widely acclaimed as a trailblazer in natural perfumery. Over two decades of sourcing the finest aromatic ingredients from all over the world and creating artisanal fragrances, she has been an evangelist for the transformative power of scent. In Fragrant, through five major players in the epic of aroma, she explores the profound connection between our sense of smell and the appetites that move us, give us pleasure, make us fully alive. Cinnamon, queen of the Spice Route, touches our hunger for the unknown, the exotic, the luxurious. Mint, homegrown the world over, speaks to our affinity for the familiar, the native, the authentic. Frankincense, an ancient incense ingredient, taps into our longing for transcendence, while ambergris embodies our unquenchable curiosity. And exquisite jasmine exemplifies our yearning for beauty, both evanescent and enduring. In addition to providing a riveting initiation into the history, natural history, and philosophy of scent, Fragrant imparts the essentials of scent literacy and includes recipes for easy-to-make fragrances and edible, drinkable, and useful concoctions that reveal the imaginative possibilities of creating with—and reveling in—aroma. Vintage line drawings make for a volume that will be a treasured gift as well as a great read.
Comprehensively teaches all of the fundamentals of fragrance chemistry Ernest Beaux, the perfumer who created Chanel No. 5, said, "One has to rely on chemists to find new aroma chemicals creating new, original notes. In perfumery, the future lies primarily in the hands of chemists." This book provides chemists and chemists-to-be with everything they need to know in order to create welcome new fragrances for the world to enjoy. It offers a simplified introduction into organic chemistry, including separation techniques and analytical methodologies; discusses the structure of perfume creation with respect to the many reactive ingredients in consumer products; and shows how to formulate effective and long-lasting scents. Fundamentals of Fragrance Chemistry starts by covering the structure of matter in order to show how its building blocks are held together. It continues with chapters that look at hydrocarbons and heteroatoms. A description of the three states of matter and how each can be converted into another is offered next, followed by coverage of separation and purification of materials. Other chapters examine acid/base reactions; oxidation and reduction reactions; perfume structure; the mechanism of olfaction; natural and synthetic fragrance ingredients; and much more. -Concentrates on aspects of organic chemistry, which are of particular importance to the fragrance industry -Offers non-chemists a simplified yet complete introduction to organic chemistry?from separation techniques and analytical methodologies to the structure of perfume creation -Provides innovative perfumers with a framework to formulate stable fragrances from the myriad of active ingredients available -Looks at future trends in the industry and addresses concerns about sustainability and quality management Fundamentals of Fragrance Chemistry is an ideal resource for students who are new to the subject, as well as for chemists and perfumers already working in this fragrant field of science.
Perfume Engineering is a must-have reference for engineers who design any products that require fragrances, such as perfumes, cosmetics, healthcare and cleaning products. This book provides the reader with practical guidance on perfume design, performance and classification, from its beginnings as a liquid mixture to the vapour phase, by way of odorant dispersion and olfactory perception. It does this through the application of development and validation models to account for fragrance evaporation, propagation and perception.
THE SENSE OF SMELL The nose is normally mistakenly assumed to be the organ of smell reception. It is not. The primary function of the nose is to regulate the temperature and humidity of inspired air, thereby protecting the delicate linings of the lungs. This is achieved by the breathed air passing through narrow passageways formed by three nasal turbinates in each nostril. The turbinates are covered by spongy vascular cells which can expand or contract to open or close the nasal pathways. The olfactory receptors, innervated by the 1st cranial nerve, are located at the top of the nose. There are about 50 million smell receptors in the human olfactory epithelia, the total size of which, in humans, is about that of a small postage stamp, with half being at the top of the left and half at the top of the right nostril. The receptive surfaces of olfactory cells are ciliated and extend into a covering layer of mucus. There is a constant turnover of olfactory cells. Their average active life has been estimated to be about 28 days.