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Experienced sewing instructor and blogger Barbara Emodi shares her sewing wisdom to help readers get started, get started back up, or hone their existing garment-sewing skills. Not a sewing reference book as much as a book of experience, this is a book that will make a novice sewist say, “Oh, so that’s why you do that,” make a practiced sewist think, “Now that’s a neat trick,” and make a very experienced sewist smile and say, “That is sooo true!” Take advantage of her thoughts, tips, and tricks on the benefits of sewing, the importance of fit, basic techniques, available tools, patterns, and materials, and so much more. • Droll, well-informed, readable, interesting, and useful— the how-to book of sewing wisdom you always wanted • Get the inside scoop on sizing and alteration, patternless sewing, what to sew and what to buy, and many other topics, with mini lessons sprinkled throughout • Tips and ideas on choosing and using the best fabric, gear, and sewing machines
An invaluable resource, Dressmaking will guide you through all the stages of making, altering, and customizing clothes. Starting with the Tools and Materials, you will learn what you need to buy and how to use it. The Fabrics chapter demonstrates the drape and weave of fabrics and explains the best uses of each. The Patterns chapter covers everything from understanding a pattern to altering one. In General Techniques, close-up photography and guiding annotation to explain key techniques step by step. A section on Basic Patterns and Variations then guides you through creating six garments. Patterns and detailed step-by-step instructions are provided for a skirt, dress, shirt, tee, jacket, and pair of trousers. Instructions are also given for possible variations of each garment. Finally, chapters on Alterations and repairs and Customizing offer practical tips for repairing worn items and inspiration for modernizing tired pieces. Packed with essential advice and inspiration, this is the dressmaking bible that no budding seamstress should be without.
An introduction to the basic principles of pattern cutting, this practical book shows students how to interpret the human form and look at clothing through the eyes of a designer rather than a consumer. As well as explaining the proportions of human anatomy, the book introduces key tools and then takes the reader from simple pattern-cutting ideas to more advanced creative methods. Finally, the book looks at the work of fashion designers who are masters of pattern cutting, such as Comme des GarCons, John Galliano, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake. With photographs of final and dissected garments, along with CAD/CAM diagrams to explain how those pieces were cut, the book will gradually build an understanding of pattern cutting, and enable students to experiment and create exciting patterns for their own designs.
This vintage book contains a comprehensive textbook for clothing designers, teachers of clothing technology, and senior students. With detailed diagrams and a wealth of useful and interesting information, this timeless handbook is highly recommended for those with an interest in fashion and design, and would make for a worthy addition to collections of related literature. Contents include: “The Human Body”, “Physical Proportions”, “The Sizing of Garments”, “Size and Movement”, “The Garment Pattern”, “Garment Balance”, “Measurement”, “Applying The Measurements to the Pattern”, “Garment Shape”, “The Designing of Speciality Garments”, and “The Grading of Patterns”. Many vintage books such as this are becoming increasingly scarce and expensive. We are republishing this volume now in an affordable, high-quality edition complete with a specially commissioned new introduction on embroidery.
A practical and inspirational book for dressmakers, quilters and embroiderers who have long coveted the style of Japanese clothes, in particular the kimono. Expert dressmaker and quilter Jenni Dobson takes you through the techniques for making Japanese clothes with simple step-by-step processes, but goes further, covering details on Japanese design and the various techniques for embellishing Japanese clothes. Colourfully illustrated with images of finished garments as well as practical diagrams and patterns for dressmaking, the author has deliberately made all the garments accessible even for those with limited experience of dressmaking, but there are plenty of ideas to inspire those more accomplished readers.
The era of mass manufacturing of clothing and other textile products is coming to an end; what is emerging is a post-industrial production system that is able to achieve the goal of mass-customised, low volume production, where the conventional borders between product design, production and user are beginning to merge. To continue developing knowledge on how to design better products and services, we need to design better clothing manufacturing processes grounded in science, technology, and management to help the clothing industry to compete more effectively. Design of clothing manufacturing processes reviews key issues in the design of more rapid, integrated and flexible clothing manufacturing processes.The eight chapters of the book provide a detailed coverage of the design of clothing manufacturing processes using a systematic approach to planning, scheduling and control. The book starts with an overview of standardised clothing classification systems and terminologies for individual clothing types. Chapter 2 explores the development of standardised sizing systems. Chapter 3 reviews the key issues in the development of a garment collection. Chapters 4 to 7 discuss particular aspects of clothing production, ranging from planning and organization to monitoring and control. Finally, chapter 8 provides an overview of common quality requirements for clothing textile materials.Design of clothing manufacturing processes is intended for R&D managers, researchers, technologists and designers throughout the clothing industry, as well as academic researchers in the field of clothing design, engineering and other aspects of clothing production. - Considers in detail the design of sizing and classification systems - Discusses the planning required in all aspects of clothing production from design and pattern making to manufacture - Overviews the management of clothing production and material quality requirements
Garment Manufacturing Technology provides an insiders' look at this multifaceted process, systematically going from design and production to finishing and quality control. As technological improvements are transforming all aspects of garment manufacturing allowing manufacturers to meet the growing demand for greater productivity and flexibility, the text discusses necessary information on product development, production planning, and material selection. Subsequent chapters covers garment design, including computer-aided design (CAD), advances in spreading, cutting and sewing, and new technologies, including alternative joining techniques and seamless garment construction. Garment finishing, quality control, and care-labelling are also presented and explored. - Provides an insiders look at garment manufacturing from design and production to finishing and quality control - Discusses necessary information on product development, production planning, and material selection - Includes discussions of computer-aided design (CAD), advances in spreading, cutting and sewing, and new technologies, including alternative joining techniques and seamless garment construction - Explores garment finishing, quality control, and care labelling
Fashion designers are presented with a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives. This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction. Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construction theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechanical points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This methodology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction, and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional possibilities in dress.
This comprehensive guide explores the fundamental sewing methods fashion designers need and teaches professional garment construction. Chapter One introduces sewing tools and machinery (including industrial machines). It discusses how to work with patterns and explains cutting-out methods. Chapter Two is devoted to different fabrics and how they work, focusing on the construction of a garment, including fastenings and trimmings, and the use of materials to support structured pieces, such as corsets. Hand-sewing techniques and basic seams are explored in Chapter Three. Techniques are demonstrated with step-by-step photographic guides combined with technical drawings. A guide to making garment details and decorations, such as pockets, waistlines, and necklines, is found in Chapter Four. Chapter Five addresses fabric-specific techniques, for everything from lace to neoprene. The best technical approaches to use for patternmaking and construction are discussed for each fabric. Catwalk images demonstrate how these kinds of techniques are employed by designers.