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Beach-elevation measurements were made and sand samples were collected along a single profile daily at low tide during the period from February 1 through March 31, 1967. Wave and tide data were recorded continuously. The beach, composed of medium-to-fine quartz and feldspar sand, is well sheltered from wave action. Wave steepness exerts a great influence on the beach profile. An equilibrium profile was found to exist for a given wave steepness. As wave conditions change, the beach profile tends to change toward the equilibrium profile associated with the new wave steepness. Given an initial beach profile, the amounts of cut and fill that will occur with a given change in wave steepness can be predicted. Textural parameters do not appear to be related to changing wave conditions in a simple way. Equilibrium values of mean grain size, sorting, skewness, and kurtosis exist for any given location on the beach profile. The equilibrium values are apparently indepdent of wave conditions. (Author).
Beach-elevation measurements were made and sand samples were collected along a single profile daily at low tide during the period from February 1 through March 31, 1967. Wave and tide data were recorded continuously. The beach, composed of medium-to-fine quartz and feldspar sand, is well sheltered from wave action. Wave steepness exerts a great influence on the beach profile. An equilibrium profile was found to exist for a given wave steepness. As wave conditions change, the beach profile tends to change toward the equilibrium profile associated with the new wave steepness. Given an initial beach profile, the amounts of cut and fill that will occur with a given change in wave steepness can be predicted. Textural parameters do not appear to be related to changing wave conditions in a simple way. Equilibrium values of mean grain size, sorting, skewness, and kurtosis exist for any given location on the beach profile. The equilibrium values are apparently indepdent of wave conditions. (Author).
Beach-elevation measurements were made and sand samples were collected daily along a profile extending from the back of the beach out to a water depth of approximately 23 feet. Wave and tide data were measured continuously at the site. The beach is well sheltered, and low swell parallel to the beach predominates. Offshore-onshore movement of the plunge point by the tides exerts a large influence on the textural parameters which move on and off shore with the moving plunge point. The magnitude of textural parameter values increases with decreasing wave steepness. It appears that transport of large sand grains by wave and tide action produces the observed textural patterns. Profile changes are greatest during mid-tide stages when the water level and position of the plunge point are changing rapidly. (Author).
A sediment budget was developed for southern Monterey Bay, California. This budget is based heavily upon sediment information obtained from field and laboratory studies. These studies included a detailed quasi-synoptic areal sampling to determine distribution of textural patterns, and a time-series study of beach and surf-zone sand samples obtained from local sand-mining companies. Results from these studies were combined with data on river discharge, the wind and wave regimes, and shoreline changes during the past century to develop quantitative estimates of sediment gains and losses to the cell. It was determined that the major sources of sediment are the discharge from the Salinas River which empties into the northeast corner of the cell, and erosion of Quaternary seacliffs which form the inner bay shore. Major sinks are the Monterey Submarine Canyon, active coastal dune fields, the mining companies, and the offshore area. The recent history of the sediment regime in the southern bay is reviewed, and a forecast of future nearshore changes is made. Recommendations for further work needed to refine the budget computations are presented. (Author).