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Understanding the current civil war in the Congo requires an examination of how the Congo's identity has been imagined over time. Imagining the Congo historicizes and contextualizes the constructions of the Congo's identity in order to analyze the political implications of that identity, looking in detail at four historical periods in which the identity of the Congo was contested, with numerous forces attempting to produce and attach meanings to its territory and people. Dunn looks specifically at how what he calls 'imaginings' of the Congo have allowed the current state of affairs there to develop, but he also looks at the broader conceptual question of how the concept of identity has developed and become important in recent international relations scholarship.
To produce this book, Cheryl Samuel travelled to Leningrad, Copenhagen, and London to examine the six robes in Europe. She also studied the robes housed in museums in Canada and the United States. In 1985, she reconstructed Chief Kotlean's robe, using information she had gathered from her study of the actual robes and Tikhanov's paintings. In the process, she resurrected an old weaving style no longer used by the Native people on the northern coast. Through her extensive and careful research, Cheryl Samuel makes an important contribution to the knowledge of early Indian weaving.
From the catwalk to the shopping mall, from the big screen to the art museum, fashion plays an increasingly central role in contemporary culture. Fashion Cultures investigates why we are so fascinated by fashion and the associated spheres of photography, magazines and television, and shopping. Fashion Cultures: * re-addresses the fashionable image, considering the work of designers from Paul Smith to Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan * investigates the radicalism of fashion photography, from William Klein to Corinne Day * considers fashion for the 'unfashionable body' (the old and the big), football and fashion, and geographies of style * explores the relationship between fashion and the moving image in discussions of female cinema icons - from Grace Kelly to Gwyneth Paltrow - and iconic male images - from Cary Grant to Malcolm X and Mr Darcy - that have redefined notions of masculinity and cool * makes a significant intervention into contemporary gender politics and theory, exploring themes such as spectacle, masquerade, and the struggle between fashion and feminism.
"This book compiles and integrates highly innovative work aimed at bridging the fields of anthropology and consumer behavior." —Journal of Consumer Affairs " . . . fascinating . . . ambitious and interesting . . . " —Canadian Advertising Foundation Newsletter " . . . an anthropological dig into consumerism brimming with original thought . . . " —The Globe and Mail "Grant McCracken has written a provocative book that puts consumerism in its place in Western society—at the centre." —Report on Business Magazine " . . . a stimulating addition to knowledge and theory about the interrelationship of culture and consumption." —Choice "[McCracken's] synthesis of anthropological and consumer studies material will give historians new ideas and methods to integrate into their thinking." —Maryland Historian "The book offers a fresh and much needed cultural interpretation of consumption." —Journal of Consumer Policy "The volume will help balance the prevailing cognitive and social psychological cast of consumer research and should stimulate more comprehensive investigation into consumer behavior." —Journal of Marketing Research " . . . broad scope, enthusiasm and imagination . . . a significant contribution to the literature on consumption history, consumer behavior, and American material culture." —Winterhur Portfolio "For this is a superb book, a definitive exploration of its subject that makes use of the full range of available literature." —American Journal of Sociology "McCracken's book is a fine synthesis of a new current of thought that strives to create an interdisciplinary social science of consumption behaviors, a current to which folklorists have much to contribute." —Journal of American Folklore This provocative book takes a refreshing new view of the culture of consumption. McCracken examines the interplay of culture and consumer behavior from the anthropologist's point of view and provides new insights into the way we view ourselves and our society.
Throughout history rulers have used clothes as a form of legitimization and propaganda. While palaces, pictures, and jewels might reflect the choice of a monarch’s predecessors or advisers, clothes reflected the preferences of the monarch himself. Being both personal and visible, the right costume at the right time could transform and define a monarch’s reputation. Many royal leaders have known this, from Louis XIV to Catherine the Great and from Napoleon I to Princess Diana. This intriguing book explores how rulers have sought to control their image through their appearance. Mansel shows how individual styles of dress throw light on the personalities of particular monarchs, on their court system, and on their ambitions. The book looks also at the economics of the costume industry, at patronage, at the etiquette involved in mourning dress, and at the act of dressing itself. Fascinating glimpses into the lives of European monarchs and contemporary potentates reveal the intimate connection between power and the way it is packaged.
Swedish society underwent great changes during the first decades of the 1900s and the new consumption and entertainment culture came under fire. Children and youth--but also women and the working classes--become symbols of the forces breaking down traditional structures and values. These groups were also identified as the principal audience for the new film medium. Hence, during the silent era, film culture interacted with society at large, filling the screen with contradictory images of diverging masculinities and gender/ethnic relations. In fact, film culture became one of the most important arenas where new gender relations could be articulated. This book covers Swedish film culture throughout the 1920s. It is the first in-depth exploration of Swedish silent film culture that goes beyond the small number of canonized films of the "Swedish Golden Age" that have been discussed as "art" for nearly 100 years. The study is based on extensive research and takes all Swedish feature films produced in the 1920s into consideration, together with a large number of source materials that include fan and trade magazines, manuscripts, censorship records, government reports and some 900 film reviews.
A rapidly changing world - in part driven by huge transformations in technology and mobility - means we all encounter shifting cultures, and new cultural and social interactions daily. Powerful forces such as consumption and globalization exert an enormous influence on all walks and levels of life across both space and time. Cultural Studies remains at the vanguard of consideration of these issues. This completely revised second edition of Introducing Cultural Studies gives a systematic overview of the concepts, theories, debates and latest research in the field. Reinforcing the interdisciplinary nature of Cultural Studies, it first considers cultural theory before branching out to examine different dimensions of culture in detail. Key features:Collaboratively authored by an interdisciplinary team, Closely cross-referenced between chapters and sections to ensure an integrated presentation of ideas. Figures, diagrams, cartoons and photographs help convey ideas and stimulate, Key Influence, Defining Concepts, and Extract boxes focus in on major thinkers, ideas and works, Examines culture along the dividing lines of class, race and gender, Weblinks and Further Reading sections encourage and support further investigation, Changes for this edition: Brand new chapter addresses how culture is researched and knowledge in cultural studies is produced. Brand new chapter on the Postmodernisation of Everyday Life. Includes hot topics such as globalization, youth subcultures, 'virtual' cultures, body modification, new media, technologically-assisted social networking and many more. This text will be core reading for undergraduates and postgraduates in a variety of disciplines - including Cultural Studies, Communication and Media Studies, English, Geography, Sociology, and Social Studies - looking for a clear and comprehensible introduction to the field.
During the medieval period, people invested heavily in looking good. The finest fashions demanded careful chemistry and compounds imported from great distances and at considerable risk to merchants; the Church became a major consumer of both the richest and humblest varieties of cloth, shoes, and adornment; and vernacular poets began to embroider their stories with hundreds of verses describing a plethora of dress styles, fabrics, and shopping experiences. Drawing on a wealth of pictorial, textual and object sources, the volume examines how dress cultures developed – often to a degree of dazzling sophistication – between the years 800 to 1450. Beautifully illustrated with 100 images, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Medieval Age presents an overview of the period with essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, visual representations, and literary representations.
Focusing on private schools, this book makes an important contribution to our understanding of schools as social settings, illustrating their potential to create alternative cultures. Intriguing comparisons are made between the Waldorf School, a clear example of holistic education, and St. Catherine's, a traditional, elite college-preparatory school. The characteristics of each school are examined and compared. On the one hand, the Waldorf School, embracing an holistic model, advocates an aesthetically enriching life in harmony with nature for its students. Its emphasis on natural materials, as well as its developmental view of the child and curriculum focused on music and the arts, is unique. The Waldorf School asserts a romantic and progressive view of education that is relevant in a world that is becoming increasingly alienating and dehumanizing. On the other hand, St. Catherine's represents an academic elite model of education and faces the problems of our modern society in a different way, by teaching students to compete and excel in a competitive world while holding onto moral and ethical values. The schools' meanings are shown to be imbued through five cultural domains: history and myths; curriculum; rituals; time and space; and social relationships. The analysis reveals the schools' quite different responses to the world, to others, and toward the individual self.