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Features concepts in coastal engineering and their application to coastal processes and disaster prevention works. This title describes basic concepts of coastal engineering, dealing mainly with wave-induced physical problems. It consists of the author's results of 30 years' scientific research on the progress of coastal sediment transport study.
Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material. Written for students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world.
Text on coastal engineering and oceanography covering theory and applications intended to mitigate shoreline erosion.
Coastal environments are arguably the most important and intensely used of all areas settled by humans. The coastline changes, not only over the centuries or decades but in a matter of hours and minutes. This rapid development applies both to the form of the coastline and to coastal processes. This new book is an introduction to the environments and and processes that occur along the world's coastline. The coastlines of the world provide 'natural laboratories' for investigating the physical, chemical and biological processes that produce the rich diversity of coastal landforms. Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology begins by addressing generic concepts, global issues and processes that are common to most coastal environments including the morphodynamic paradigm, Quaternary sea-level fluctuations, tides, waves and sediment transport processes. Later chapters address the morphodynamics of the five main types of coastal environments, namely fluvial-, tide-, and wave-dominated environments, rocky coasts, and coral reefs and islands. The final chapter considers the issue of coastal management, and in particular the management of coastal erosion. This comprehensive and in-depth book is an essential reference handbook for students looking to extend their analytical skills and interest in coastal morphodynamics. Fully illustrated throughout, each chapter contains boxed sections designed to aid further study by providing either a further analysis or treatment of a particular issue, an interesting application of a principle just discussed in the body of the text, or a virtual field trip.
The objective of this book is to focus on the physical processes that cause coastal erosion.Many scientists and engineers have focused their research on the entire range of physical processes from the waves and the currents in the nearshore to the response of the beach, via sand transport, resulting in a changing coastal morphology. Of these many processes, this book focuses only on those which directly relate the generation of coastal erosion. Some chapters deal exclusively with the physical processes, while others provide examples of erosion problems although most of the chapter topics have clear implications for issues of coastal-zone management, these issues are not belaboured as several other books are already available in this area. The objective is to provide state-of-the-art presentation of the science of coastal erosion processes.
The objective of this conference is to provide a forum for the dissemination and exchange of scientific and technical advancing international knowledge transfer ideas and progress among researchers concerned with the study of physical processes operating at the coast.
Describes the physics of the coastal ocean, for advanced students, researchers, urban planners, and environmental engineers.
This book is an introductory treatment to coastal and estuarine processes for earth scientists or engineers. Suitable for a first course on the subject, it covers water waves, surf zone hydrodynamics, tides in oceans and estuaries, storm surges, estuarine mixing, basic sediment transport, coastal morphodynamics and coastal groundwater dynamics. The book contains a substantial amount of new material. For example, the explicit, analytical treatment of transient, forced long waves strongly enhances the discussion on tsunami, storm surges and surf beat. The treatment of turbulent mixing includes finite mixing length effects, which provide an explanation for differential diffusion of different sediment sizes in suspension. The recently discovered effects of acceleration skewness and boundary layer streaming are also included in the basic sediment transport models. In addition, the treatment of beach groundwater dynamics: The mechanisms by which waves as well as tides drive groundwater motion, builds the link between the previously unconnected fields of coastal hydraulics and regional groundwater modeling. To serve as an effective reference book for professionals, the book is fully indexed and comprehensively cross referenced.
On May 25, 1977 a small invited group of coastal oceanographers assembled at the Marine Sciences Research Center at Stony Brook for three days of intensive discussions in a cloistered setting. The purpose of this workshop was to "assess the state of the art, to ascertain priorities for future research and to formulate the theoretical, instrumen tal, experimental and logistical tools needed to attain those goals in the study of coastal oceanic* fronts. " Although the existence of oceanic fronts has been known for a long time, ocean frontology is experiencing rapid acceleration in the emergence of new concepts and methodology. The science is developing from the descriptive phase and many unsolved problems lie in the understanding and quantification of frontal dynamics. In turn, challenging questions need to be addressed on the controlling influence of the physics of fronts on the chemistry, biology, acoustics, and suspended particulate aggregations in these zones. Coastal fronts are very efficient at concentrating buoyant and suspended particulate matter inclUding toxic wastes; heavy metal concentrations in polluted coastal frontal zones have been measured to be as high as one to ten thousand times background. These zones are also regions of high biological productivity, and consequently frequented by both commercial and sports fishermen.
More and more of the nation's vast coastlines are being filled with homes and vacation resorts. The result is an increasing number of structures built on erosion-prone shoresâ€"with many of these structures facing collapse or damage. In response to mounting property losses, Congress has given the Federal Emergency Management Agency responsibility for incorporating coastal erosion into its National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP). This book from the National Research Council addresses the immediate question of how to develop an erosion insurance programâ€"as well as the larger issues raised by the continually changing face of our nation's shorelines. Managing Coastal Erosion explores major questions surrounding a national policy on coastal erosion: Should the federal government be in the business of protecting developers and individuals who build in erosion-prone coastal areas? How should such a program be implemented? Can it prompt more responsible management of coastal areas? The volume provides federal policymakers, state floodplain and resource managers, civil engineers, environmental groups, marine specialists, development companies, and researchers with invaluable information about the natural processes of coastal erosion and the effect of human activity on those processes. The book also details the workings of the NFIP, lessons to be learned from numerous state coastal management programs, and much more.