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Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions.
A 1995 review of how shorelines have changed since the last Ice Age, and what this implies for future environmental management.
This book discusses the perceptions and sketches, geological background, materials and coastal processes of the East Coast of India. It also suggests strategies for effectively managing natural coastal processes in these areas. India has a coastline of about 7,516 km with a variety of coastal extensions, which developed at different time scales, producing permanent variations in the morphologies of the coastal areas through hydrodynamic, fluvial, aeolian and terrestrial processes. The book focuses on the Balasore coast, an area drained by three main rivers (the Subarnarekha, the Dugdeugi and the Burahbolong), which impacts the coastal morphodynamic processes of the area and accounts for their multifaceted nature. Large drops or increases in the sediment supply within a short time span or over prolonged periods cause shoreline shifting. Eight satellite images from 1975, 1980, 1990, 1995, 2000, 2005, 2010 and 2013 were used to measure the shoreline dynamics, and a reference line was established using first order polynomial model with base data with 0.5 pixel root mean square error (RMSE) accuracy. The end point rate (EPR) model was adopted for estimating the future position of the shoreline. In order to assess the beach morphodynamics, the coastal modeling system (SMC) was used, which incorporates with a series of appliances and numerical models structured consistent with the space and time scale of the different dynamics affecting the littoral and beach morphology based on diverse thematic and reference documents. This study employed short-term analysis using the MOPLA module of the SMC system, which consists of three attached modules: the wave transformation module (Oluca), the depth-averaged currents module (Copla) and the sediment transport and morphological evolution module (Eros). The shoreline dynamics findings show that the magnitude of erosion is higher in the northern part of the coastline in the left bank area of the Subarnarekha river estuary and in the estuarine part of the Dugdugi and Burahbalang rivers. The southern part of the shoreline near Rasalpur and Joydevkasba is relatively stable, and the study suggests that the current shoreline shift trend will continue in the future. The SMC model indicates that the wave height, significant wave height, current velocity and the potential transport of sediment at the Kirtaniya study point are high, while at Choumukh they are low and at the Rasalpur study point they are intermediate.
A highly readable book on the nature of beaches, including thedynamics of the shoreface, surf, swash and backbeach, and globallyat the regional variations in beach systems from the tropics to thepoles. The beach and adjacent shoreface are the most dynamic part of theEarth's surface. They represent a narrow zone where waves, tidesand winds continously interact, producing, wherever sediment isavailable, hundreds of thousands of kilometres of beach systems.Beaches are also the focus of intense pressure from users anddevelopers, and for these reasons alone a knowledge of beachsystems and their morphodynamics is critical to their sustainablemanagement. This book is the first to: * provide an in-depth and holistic view of beach systems, lookingboth in detail at the different beach zones and globally at rangeof parameters influencing regional variation * examine the relationship between beaches and ancillary dunesystems and includes chapters on beach ecology, safety,stratification and barrier evolution. The book is designed for use in the classroom and the office, beingaimed at university level students and coastal professioanls.
This collection contains 109 papers presented at the Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics, held in Lund, Sweden, June 11-15, 2001.
Process-based morphodynamic modelling is one of the relatively new tools at the disposal of coastal scientists, engineers and managers. On paper, it offers the possibility to analyse morphological processes and to investigate the effects of various measures one might consider to alleviate some problems. For these to be applied in practice, a model should be relatively straightforward to set up. It should be accurate enough to represent the details of interest, it should run long enough and robustly to see the real effects happen, and the physical processes represented in such a way that the sediment generally goes in the right direction at the right rate. Next, practitioners must be able to judge if the patterns and outcomes of the model are realistic and finally, translate these colour pictures and vector plots to integrated parameters that are relevant to the client or end user. In a nutshell, this book provides an in-depth review of ways to model coastal processes, including many hands-on exercises.
Coasts are some of the most rapidly changing places on earth. Understanding the natural adjustments that occur between coastal landforms and the processes that influence them is essential for the better management of coastal resources. Coasts provides a necessary background in geomorphology for those studying coastal systems. It describes the landforms that occur on the coast, their responses to the processes that shape them, and the pattern of evolution that can be determined for different types of coast over thousands of years. Numerous examples from around the world are used to illustrate the variety of environments. Particular attention is paid to coastal morphodynamics, the co-adjustment of process and form, on rocky, reef, sandy, deltaic-estuarine and muddy coasts. This valuable text for advanced undergraduate and graduate students is well illustrated and contains an extensive reference section. It will also be of great interest to environmental scientists, geologists, coastal managers and planners.
The study of estuaries and coasts has seen enormous growth in recent years, since changes in these areas have a large effect on the food chain, as well as on the physics and chemistry of the ocean. As the coasts and river banks around the world become more densely populated, the pressure on these ecosystems intensifies, putting a new focus on environmental, socio-economic and policy issues. Written by a team of international expert scientists, under the guidance of Chief Editors Eric Wolanski and Donald McClusky, the Treatise on Estuarine and Coastal Science, Ten Volume Set examines topics in depth, and aims to provide a comprehensive scientific resource for all professionals and students in the area of estuarine and coastal science Most up-to-date reference for system-based coastal and estuarine science and management, from the inland watershed to the ocean shelf Chief editors have assembled a world-class team of volume editors and contributing authors Approach focuses on the physical, biological, chemistry, ecosystem, human, ecological and economics processes, to show how to best use multidisciplinary science to ensure earth's sustainability Provides a comprehensive scientific resource for all professionals and students in the area of estuarine and coastal science Features up-to-date chapters covering a full range of topics
A comprehensive introduction to coastal storms and their associated impacts Coastal Storms offers students and professionals in the field a comprehensive overview and groundbreaking text that is specifically devoted to the analysis of coastal storms. Based on the most recent knowledge and contributions from leading researchers, the text examines coastal storms’ processes and characteristics, the main hazards (such as overwash, inundation and flooding, erosion, structures overtopping), and how to monitor and model storms. The authors include information on the most advanced innovations in forecasting, prediction, and early warning, which serves as a foundation for accurate risk evaluation and developing adequate coastal indicators and management options. In addition, structural overtopping and damage are explained, taking into account the involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes. The monitoring methods of coastal storms are analyzed based on recent results from research projects in Europe and the United States. Methods for vulnerability and risk evaluation are detailed, storm impact indicators are suggested for different hazards and coastal management procedures analyzed. This important resource includes: Comprehensive coverage of storms and associated impacts, including meteorological coastal storm definitions and related potential consequences A state-of-the-art reference for advanced students, professionals and researchers in the field Chapters on monitoring methods of coastal storms, their prediction, early warning systems, and modeling of consequences Explorations of methods for vulnerability and risk evaluation and suggestions for storm impact indicators for different hazards and coastal management procedures Coastal Storms is a compilation of scientific and policy-related knowledge related to climate-related extreme events. The authors are internationally recognized experts and their work reflects the most recent science and policy advances in the field.