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Literary Nonfiction. Memoir. One day during his ninth-grade Speech class Kelly Daniels's outlaw, soul-surfer father appears at school unannounced and pulls the boy from class. Speeding down the freeway, Daniels's father admits that he has been involved in a crime, but he does not remember how it happened. He'd been up for days on cocaine and booze, he explains, and the next thing he knew he woke up in jail with a bad feeling. It was almost a relief when the guard told him he'd killed his cousin Barkley, a drug kingpin of sorts. "I'm sorry to lay this on you," he tells the stunned boy, "but I'm not going to be around to watch your back. Barkley has a son your age...and this kid might come after you someday. You're going to have to learn to look after yourself." A few days later, the father skips bail and flees the country. "Forget about him," everybody says. But the boy doesn't forget. Someday, he believes, they'll find each other, the fugitive father and the dreamy son, and together they'll surf perfect, faraway waves. "Daniels more or less raised himself, as the son of Christian cultists fallen on hard times in the California desert in the 1970s.... H]e writes about those years of poverty and lost wandering with a nuanced objectivity that is wise as only very good writers can be wise: He draws beauty out of humiliation and fear with the precision and evocative power of his language and the relentlessness of his gaze." Jaimy Gordon "In his work] you'll encounter a writer of dynamic prose, of expertly modulated sentences, and pitch perfect, often hilarious dialogue; a writer with a haunting sense of atmosphere, and considerable narrative invention." Stuart Dybek"
Surfer Magazine offers the ultimate guide to catching the best waves from the pristine points of Santa Barbara to the sunny beaches of San Diego. For more than 250 spots, this sturdy manual sporting a water-resistant cover delivers a clear assessment of wave quality, prime wave conditions, and local hazards (both natural and manmade). Informative text answers the burning questions that surfers often pose: What tide? What wind? What swell? How are the locals? Are they worse than the sharksor the traffic? With helpful maps, photos, and directions, this Surfer's Guide is sure to become the gold standard for anyone looking to score the perfect wave.
Draws on decades of experience and the popular team-taught courses at the University of California at Santa Barbara to trace the cultural, political, economic and environmental aspects of surfing while evaluating the diverse range of influences that have rendered the sport a billion-dollar worldwide industry.
South Pacific expert and veteran travel writer David Stanley knows the best way to experience Fiji, from making the most of one of the world's premiere diving spots to getting away from it all in lesser-known villages. David provides great trip ideas for a variety of travelers, such as Best of Fiji, Island-Hopper Special, and The Life Aquatic. Packed with information on swimming the reefs, taking day-long boat cruises, and sampling Fijian specialties, Moon Fiji gives travelers the tools they need to create a more personal and memorable experience.
Written by locals, Fodor's travel guides have been offering expert advice for all tastes and budgets for over 80 years. California is one of America's most popular vacation destinations--its diversity draws every type of traveler, from foodies to families. Fodor's full-color California guide covers all corners of the state, from the northern coast to Wine Country and from Los Angeles to Yosemite National Park. Fodor's California includes: UP-TO-DATE COVERAGE: Travelers can road trip with ease with a chapter dedicated to California's quintessential drives, now with even more destinations covered. From advice on how many days to stay at each destination to must-see stops along the way, this is an essential trip-planning tool. New hotels and restaurants are also included throughout. ILLUSTRATED FEATURES: In-depth features detail popular attractions such as the San Diego Zoo, as well as Cable Cars and Chinatown in San Francisco. A must-have for wine buffs is the Wine Tasting in Napa and Sonoma feature, which suggests a tasting itinerary, teaches the proper wine tasting technique, and describes how grapes are grown, harvested, and pressed. INDISPENSABLE TRIP-PLANNING TOOLS: Top ¬Attractions and Top Experiences help readers choose activities based on their interests. For outdoorsy types, dedicated national parks chapters include planning tips and highlights. DISCERNING RECOMMENDATIONS: Fodor's California offers savvy advice and recommendations from local writers to help travelers make the most of their visit. Fodor's Choice designates our best picks in every category. COVERS: San Francisco, Los Angeles, San Diego, Palm Springs, Yosemite National Park, Big Sur, Napa and Sonoma, Monterey Bay, Lake Tahoe, Mendocino, and more.
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.