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This is a book about strength training for rock climbers. Climbing is a skill sport, but in order to maximize our skills, we need a foundation of strength. In this book, you will learn the building blocks of developing an optimal level of general strength and then adding specific climbing strength to it. Focusing both on gym-based strength training and specific finger strength training, the programs outlined in Unstoppable Force are designed to keep you climbing harder, longer, and free of injury. By developing a high level of strength, you can better withstand the rigors of hard specific climbing practice. Whether you are just looking to brush up on some fundamental exercises in the gym or are looking for a comprehensive training program for strength, this is the book you need. STRENGTH IS USEFUL. STRENGTH IS FUNDAMENTAL. STRENGTH IS SAFETY.
This book was originally published in 2013 as an ebook on the Climb Strong site. I added it to the book Strength as an appendix, under the name of "Successful Sessions: 34 Training Tips for Successful Rock Climbing." I had originally written it as ten tips, then fixed on twenty five. By the time I'd finished, I stopped at the nice, round number of 34.Since that time, my learning and communicating with more accomplished coaches and climbers has increased substantially. In fact, there are many days that I do little at my normal job (running the gym), and instead spend hours communicating with climbers. This has been a hard transition, made easier by the efforts of my wife, Ellen, as well as Charlie Manganiello, Shelby Duncan, Kevin Wallingford, and Emily Tilden, who keep Elemental running and improving. I am pleased to admit that I am now the worst coach at the gym.When I looked at the updated list in the fall of 2015, I saw that we had collected well over a hundred tips, from one-line reminders to full-life plans. Over the winter of 2016/17, we whittled the tips down to exactly 100, and tried to keep them short and to the point. This is not so much a book to read in one sitting, but rather one to take in one or two tips at a time.This book is free to download with a paid membership to our site.
Drawing on new research in sports medicine, nutrition, and fitness, this book offers a training program to help any climber achieve superior performance and better mental concentration on the rock, with less risk of injury.
Training for climbing can be fun, but sticking to a schedule can be desperately hard. Many climbers have seen the value of a carefully planned out, periodized training program. Clearly, such programs work, but many of us can't stick to such a rigid schedule. What if there were a better way? What if there were a more flexible way of planning that provided the same great results? And what if such a program allowed you to maintain high levels of climbing performance much longer than you could on a traditional program? For the climber that has limited time to train, there may be no better program than Logical Progression. For anyone who wants to get fit and stay fit for long trips and redpoint seasons, the program outlined in this book can give you a great advantage. Based on solid science and tested by hundreds of climbers, Logical Progression is a simple and very effective way of organizing your training, and making sure that progress keeps coming.
Strength is the most fundamental quality a climber can develop. By developing a high level of strength, a climber can effectively move his power and endurance forward with no additional training. Combined with the mobility and stability exercises presented in this book, the strength programs you'll find in these pages will help you build a bullet-proof base of fitness for any climbing endeavor.
Handbook for experienced climbers covers all the physical and psychological aspects of climbing training.
The definitive resource to brain-training for climbing—by an internationally recognized expert As physical as climbing is, it is even more mental. Ultimately, people climb with their minds—hands and feet are merely extensions of their thoughts and will. Becoming a master climber requires that you first master your mind. In Maximum Climbing, America’s best-selling author on climbing performance presents a climber’s guide to the software of the brain—one that will prove invaluable whether one's preference is bouldering, sport climbing, traditional climbing, alpine climbing, or mountaineering. Eric Hörst brings unprecedented clarity to the many cognitive and neurophysical aspects of climbing and dovetails this information into a complete program, setting forth three stages of mental training that correspond to beginner, intermediate, and elite levels of experience and commitment—the ideal template to build upon to personalize one's goals through years of climbing to come.
In Training for the New Alpinism, Steve House, world-class climber and Patagonia ambassador, and Scott Johnston, coach of U.S. National Champions and World Cup Nordic Skiers, translate training theory into practice to allow you to coach yourself to any mountaineering goal. Applying training practices from other endurance sports, House and Johnston demonstrate that following a carefully designed regimen is as effective for alpinism as it is for any other endurance sport and leads to better performance. They deliver detailed instruction on how to plan and execute training tailored to your individual circumstances. Whether you work as a banker or a mountain guide, live in the city or the country, are an ice climber, a mountaineer heading to Denali, or a veteran of 8,000-meter peaks, your understanding of how to achieve your goals grows exponentially as you work with this book. Chapters cover endurance and strength training theory and methodology, application and planning, nutrition, altitude, mental fitness, and assessing your goals and your strengths. Chapters are augmented with inspiring essays by world-renowned climbers, including Ueli Steck, Mark Twight, Peter Habeler, Voytek Kurtyka, and Will Gadd. Filled with photos, graphs, and illustrations.
Whether you call it work capacity, strength-endurance, power-endurance, recovery, or stamina, the goal remains the same - to mitigate fatigue. This is not a collection of workouts. It is a tool designed to be used within the confines of a well-planned training cycle. The sessions suggested are entirely dependent on training progressions, using the stress and recovery from one workout to enhance the value of subsequent workouts.