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This volume contains the papers of an international and interdisciplinary conference, the first such conference dedicated to the cultural history of civilian uniforms. Scholars from six different nations and from such diverse fields as history, art history, textile history, social psychology, ethnology of European and non-European countries, cultural studies, and gender studies present the results of their research. Investigating different aspects of civilian uniforms from the 18th century to the present, they reveal how this category of dress served as a complex carrier of meaning and a central medium of symbolic communication. This publication reflects a broad variety of research methods, makes available a rich store of primary sources, and raises numerous questions surrounding the role of uniforms. In addition, it provides preliminary insights into the important and remote realm of Eastern European civilian uniforms. The essays are written in either German or English. Aus dem Inhalt: Stefan Haas/Elisabeth Hackspiel-Mikosch: Ziviluniformen als Medium symbolischer Kommunikation. Geschichte und Theorie der Erforschung einer Bekleidungsform an der Schnittstelle von Politik, Gesellschaft, Geschlecht und Kultur I. Konfigurationen: Praktiken der Gestaltung und des Gebrauchs: Elisabeth Hackspiel-Mikosch: Vorl�ufer der zivilen Uniformen im 18. Jahrhundert. Hofmonturen als Inszenierung fuerstlicher Macht im h�fischen Fest Monica Kurzel-Runtscheiner: Vom �Mantelkleid� zu Staatsfrack und Waffenrock. Anf�nge und Entwicklung der Ziviluniform in �sterreich Marieluise Kliegel: Von Tarifen und Versteigerungen. Bereiche der Livreeverwaltung an deutschen Adelsh�fen vornehmlich im 19. Jahrhundert Leonid Efimovic Sepelev: Ziviluniformen im zaristischen Russland Olga Vainshtein: �Sarafan for Court Ladies�. Gendering Court Uniform in Russia Thomas Luettenberg: Beamte im Waffenrock. Genese und Charakter deutscher Ziviluniformen im Kaiserreich (1871-1918) II. Repr�sentationen: Ziviluniformen als Symbol von politischer Herrschaft, sozialer Distinktion und kultureller Weltkonstitution: Insa Gro�kraumbach: Der doppelt beschriebene K�rper. Die Uniform als �zweite Haut� des l�ndlichen Polizeidieners im fruehen 19. Jahrhundert Jochen Ramming: �... in dem Costueme eines protestantischen Geistlichen.� Zu Verbreitung und Symbolgehalt des Rabbinerornates in der ersten H�lfte des 19. Jahrhunderts Ralph Winkle: Volksorden und Uniformierung. Symbolpolitik in der Disziplinargesellschaft des 19. Jahrhunderts Cedomir Vasic: From Prince's Servant to Civil Servant. Civilian Uniforms in Serbia in the 19th Century Alexandra Hillringhaus: Propaganda und Provokation. Politische Uniformen in Deutschland zwischen den Weltkriegen Efrat Tse�lon: Not just a historical Relic. Contemporary Debate on School Uniform in Europe and the US III. Imaginationen: Die Uniform als Traum und Wahn: Shoshana-Rose Marzel: Symbolic Uses of Uniforms in Zola's Cycle The Rougon-Macquart Heidi Helmhold / Birgit de Boer: Fassadenkleider. Von der Architektur des uniformen K�rpers. Ein- und Ausruestungen in EchtZeit Elke Gaugele: Uni-Formen des Begehrens. Uniformen, Fetischismus und die textile Konstruktion moderner Genderidentit�ten.
Lena Böttcher offers an overdue exploration of the early years of the deaconess community in Neuendettelsau from a gender perspective. Drawing on rich archival material, she focuses on the process of a distinctive collective identity. Central to this study is the assumption, drawn from the social sciences, that collective identity is a social construction which requires the participation of the whole group through identification and which is consolidated by developing specific rituals, symbols, codes and normative texts, which facilitate integration, and by constructing external boundaries, which separate from the world and the wider church. This approach highlights the fact that the women were not merely passive recipients but participated and contributed to the formation of a distinct Neuendettelsau deaconess culture. Thus, this study offers an explanation for the popularity such institutes enjoyed amongst single and widowed Protestant women in the latter half of the nineteenth century. In consequence, this study significantly widens the scope of historical research on the Institute which so far has tended to take into account solely the male perspective of the Rektoren.
During the era of the French revolution, patriots across Europe tried to introduce a national uniform. This book, the first comparative study of national uniform schemes, discusses case studies from Austria, Bulgaria, England, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, Sweden, Turkey the United States, and Wales.
This book examines Hungarian nationalism through everyday practices that will strike most readers as things that seem an unlikely venue for national politics. Separate chapters examine nationalized tobacco, nationalized wine, nationalized moustaches, nationalized sexuality, and nationalized clothing. These practices had other economic, social or gendered meanings: moustaches were associated with manliness, wine with aristocracy, and so forth. The nationalization of everyday practices thus sheds light on how patriots imagined the nation’s economic, social, and gender composition. Nineteenth-century Hungary thus serves as the case study in the politics of "everyday nationalism." The book discusses several prominent names in Hungarian history, but in unfamiliar contexts. The book also engages with theoretical debates on nationalism, discussing several key theorists. Various chapters specifically examine how historical actors imagine relationship between the nation and the state, paying particular attention Rogers Brubaker’s constructivist approach to nationalism without groups, Michael Billig’s notion of ‘banal nationalism,’ Carole Pateman’s ideas about the nation as a ‘national brotherhood’, and Tara Zahra’s notion of ‘national indifference.’
Based on considerable empirical research, this second volume of an analytical history of social power deals with power relations between the Industrial Revolution and the First World War, focusing on France, Great Britain, Hapsburg Austria, Prussia/Germany and the United States.
This second volume deals with power relations between the Industrial Revolution and the First World War.
Written in accessible language, this book provides a comprehensive analysis of a topical subject that is being widely debated across Europe. The work presents an overview of emerging case law from the European Court of Human Rights and the Court of Justice of the European Union, as well as from national courts and equality bodies in European countries, on the wearing of religious symbols in public spaces. The author persuasively argues that bans on the wearing of religious symbols constitutes a breach of an individual’s human rights and contravene existing anti-discrimination legislation. Fully updated to take account of recent case law, this second edition has been expanded to consider bans in public spaces more generally, including employment, an area where some of the recent developments have taken place.
This 23rd volume of Research in Organizational Behavior presents papers on a variety of topics in the field of organizational behaviour, with the twin goals of consolidating prior research and breaking new theoretical ground.