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Bustle fashions 1885-1887 contains a wide selection of high-quality women's clothing patterns from the height of the bustle era. During these years, the waist was flattered by a closely fitted bodice, considerable fullness below the waist in back, and ample skirt draperies. This book contains practical patterns for undergarments and nightgowns; wrappers and tea gowns; bodices, skirts, and overskirts; complete ensembles for street and hose wear; and outer jackets, coats, dolmans, and cloaks. The patterns are drawn from rare original issues of the magazine The Voice of Fashion and 1885 to 1887 editions of the pattern book The National Garment Cutter. They were used by both amateur and professional dressmakers to make up the mainstream styles of the day, and are very similar to patterns published by Butterick. These patterns are enlarged with apportioning scales, which are provided in this book, along with step-by-step instructions. Apportioning scales are special rulers that enable you to draft custom sizes, from queen size to doll size, without doing arithmetic. Most patterns in this book are accompanied by supplementary illustrations with detailed descriptions, drawn from Butterick's Delineator magazine. Each of these supplements shows optional style variations that can be produced by using flat patterns alteration techniques, or merely by substituting a garment section from a different pattern in this book. The descriptions include information on construction and fabrics. Edited selections from fashion columns in The Delineator, Harpers Bazar, and other publications add information on style trends. Also drawn from The Delineator are instructions and illustrations for 208 trimmings and 91 accessories. In addition, a chapter on dressmaking, assembled from articles in Godey's Lady's Book, gives detailed information on making garments for the second half of the 1880s. The book's glossary explains period fabric names and dressmaking terms. Bustle Fashions 1885-1887 is a pattern source for readers who recreate period clothing for theater and film; living history; Old West and single-action shooting events; steampunk and goth outfits; bridal parties; or dolls. It's a valuable identification and dating tool for costume historians and vintage clothing collectors. And it will spark ideas for fashion designers.
Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889 contains an in-depth selection of high-quality women's clothing patterns from the end of the bustle era. During these years, picturesque styles evoking the late 18th and early 19th centuries were popular. The silhouette progressively deflated from one with considerable back fullness and puffy draperies to the comparatively narrow one of the early 1890s. This book contains practical patterns for undergarments and morning wear; wrappers and tea gowns; skirts and overskirts; ensembles consisting of a bodice, skirt, and draperies; ensembles consisting of a polonaise and a skirt; house, street, and evening dresses; outfits for lawn tennis and riding; and outer jackets, coats, and wraps. The patterns are drawn from rare original issues of The Voice of Fashion magazine. They were used by both amateur and professional dressmakers to make up the mainstream styles of the day, and are very similar to patterns published by Butterick. These patterns are enlarged with apportioning scales, which are provided in this book, along with step-by-step instructions. Apportioning scales are special rulers that enable you to draft custom sizes, from queen size to doll size, without doing arithmetic. Many patterns in this book are accompanied by supplementary illustrations with detailed descriptions, drawn from Butterick's Delineator magazine. Each supplement shows optional style variations that can be produced by using flat pattern alteration techniques, or by substituting a garment section from a different pattern in this book. The descriptions include information on construction and fabrics. Selections from fashion columns in The Delineator and Harper's Bazar, and from a circa 1890 dressmaking manual, add information on construction and on style trends. Also drawn from The Delineator are instructions and illustrations for 34 trimmings and 85 accessories. The book's glossary explains period fabric names and dressmaking terms. Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889 is a rich pattern source for readers who recreate period clothing for theater and film; living history; Old West and single-action shooting events; steampunk and goth outfits; bridal parties; or dolls. It's a valuable identification and dating tool for costume historians and vintage clothing collectors. And it will spark ideas for fashion designers.
The Voice of Fashion contains a comprehensive selection of women's styles from rare originals of 14 magazines published from 1900 through 1906. The 79 patterns in this book include afternoon, evening, ball, and wedding gowns; home and maternity wear; suits and blouses for day and business; lingerie; outer coats; and outfits for riding, golf, and other sports. Each pattern has a fashion plate, plus instructions for drafting and assembly. Additional fashion columns and plates supplement the information on fabrics, trims, and construction. A substantial glossary explains period fabric names and dressmaking terms. The patterns can be enlarged either by projection, or by drafting with the Diamond Cutting System used with the original magazines.
In 1930 Danish artist Einar Wegener underwent a series of surgeries to live as Lili Ilse Elvenes (more commonly known as Lili Elbe). Her life story, Fra Mand til Kvinde (From Man to Woman), published in Copenhagen in 1931, is the first popular full-length (auto)biographical narrative of a subject who undergoes genital transformation surgery (Genitalumwandlung). In Man Into Woman: A Comparative Scholarly Edition, Pamela L. Caughie and Sabine Meyer present the full text of the 1933 American edition of Elbe's work with comprehensive notes on textual and paratextual variants across the four published editions in three languages. This edition also includes a substantial scholarly introduction which situates the historical and intellectual context of Elbe's work, as well as new essays on the work by leading scholars in transgender studies and modernist literature, and critical coverage of the 2015 biopic, The Danish Girl. This print edition has a digital companion: the Lili Elbe Digital Archive (www.lilielbe.org). Launched on July 6, 2019, to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the founding of Magnus Hirschfeld's Institute for Sexual Science (Institut für Sexualwissenschaft) where Lili Elbe was initially examined, the Lili Elbe Digital Archive hosts the German typescript and all four editions of this narrative published in Danish, German, and English between 1931 and 1933, with English translations of the Danish edition and the typescript. Many letters from archives and contemporaneous articles noted in this print edition may be found in the digital archive.
"Survey of Historic Costume presents a thorough overview and chronology of Western dress from the ancient world to the trends of today"--
"Contains a complete wardrobe of authentic women's styles from the late 1870s and early 1880s...The 343 patterns and 798 illustrations in this work are drawn from numerous rare original sources... Includes patterns for corsets, bustles, lingerie, skirts, day bodices, evening bodices, overskirts, polonaises, and day dresses." -- Back cover.
Rich selection of dressmakers' patterns from popular, late-19th-century magazine The Voice of Fashion includes 50 garments for women, from day and evening dresses to tennis outfits and undergarments. 498 illustrations.
Hendrik Petrus Berlage, the Dutch architect and architectural philosopher, created a series of buildings and a body of writings from 1886 to 1909 that were among the first efforts to probe the problems and possibilities of modernism. Although his Amsterdam Stock Exchange, with its rational mastery of materials and space, has long been celebrated for its seminal influence on the architecture of the 20th century, Berlage's writings are highlighted here. Bringing together Berlage's most important texts, among them "Thoughts on Style in Architecture", "Architecture's Place in Modern Aesthetics", and "Art and Society", this volume presents a chapter in the history of European modernism. In his introduction, Iain Boyd Whyte demonstrates that the substantial contribution of Berlage's designs to modern architecture cannot be fully appreciated without an understanding of the aesthetic principles first laid out in his writings.
After a Fashion covers medieval through Art Deco styles, for men and women. It guides readers through each stage of a reproduction project planning, designing, choosing materials, and constructing. It advises them on all aspects of collecting vintage clothes buying, restoring, altering, and wearing. The pattern-making and sewing instructions are useful to sewers at any experience level. Directions have been added for using the Internet to buy and sell, research styles, and contact costumers and collectors. An updated, expanded appendix lists over 600 sources (on-line and otherwise) for supplies, vintage clothes, and information.